• Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.

    Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Budget camera to pair with Olympus 100-400mm Lens (4 Viewers)

The r6 is a 20mpix full frame. That means you need the new 200-800 to match the reach of the Em1-ii with a 100-400. The canon might have some advantage for noise but no advantage for cropping because it is the same number of pixels. The question is: how noise free do you want things to be and will post do what you need? I think the latter but your mileage may differ.
Niels
 
Thanks for everyone's suggestions and input, it's great to hear people's experiences with this combo. I'm still in two minds. I already have Canon gear and I'm slightly loathed to buy into another system, although I hear the benefits. I've managed to get hold of a Sigma 150-600 and have been testing it on the 5d3 and R6. The sigma is big and heavy and the focus seems rather hit-and-miss, especially in lower light on the mirrorless R6. Especially with the current grey days here in the UK, I've had to push the iso to get a fast enough shutter speed. So I worry that the smaller sensor will be nosier still. If only money was no object!!!

So I'm still in a quandary about what to do, Any other thoughts or suggestions??
Nope... everything is a set of compromises, even with the most expensive setup. I don't think you can go wrong either way, so it's just a matter of deciding what you want.
 
This image was taken under challenging conditions. It probably shows the limitations of the camera/lens and the photographer. Using the E-M1ii and Zuiko 100-400, I held the shutter down as this cormorant was taking off. I was lucky to catch the whole takeoff, and this was the sharpest photo... and it's still soft.

full


Settings were 1/640, f6.3, ISO6400, 400mm. It was raining sporadically, heavily overcast, and I was shooting across water, so atmospheric conditions were poor. I had to push ISO to get enough shutter speed for action. I was squatting on two feet with my elbows over my knees. Not as stable as sitting, but more than standing. At 400mm (800mm equivalent FOV), I felt like the combination of shutter speed/stability was not enough for the action/focal length. I suppose I should have limited myself to still subjects, but all I had on this day were swimming/flying waterfowl.

Lessons learned: maybe dial back FL to 300mm, and prop myself against a tree? It seems like every time I use 400mm, I am disappointed with the results. Perhaps the non-sych IS is at its limits without a monopod/tripod.
 
I think you need to dial to shorter shutter time and raise the ISO accordingly. I try to use 1/800 for in flight and have read lots of posts from people using 1/2000.
 
This image was taken under challenging conditions. It probably shows the limitations of the camera/lens and the photographer. Using the E-M1ii and Zuiko 100-400, I held the shutter down as this cormorant was taking off. I was lucky to catch the whole takeoff, and this was the sharpest photo... and it's still soft.

full


Settings were 1/640, f6.3, ISO6400, 400mm. It was raining sporadically, heavily overcast, and I was shooting across water, so atmospheric conditions were poor. I had to push ISO to get enough shutter speed for action. I was squatting on two feet with my elbows over my knees. Not as stable as sitting, but more than standing. At 400mm (800mm equivalent FOV), I felt like the combination of shutter speed/stability was not enough for the action/focal length. I suppose I should have limited myself to still subjects, but all I had on this day were swimming/flying waterfowl.

Lessons learned: maybe dial back FL to 300mm, and prop myself against a tree? It seems like every time I use 400mm, I am disappointed with the results. Perhaps the non-sych IS is at its limits without a monopod/tripod.
This is a good shot....'sharpness' is not everything. Content is...impact is. Keep that in mind.
Given the weather and your settings....not much you can 'will' upon the camera to make it do more than what you can do. How cropped is this by the way? That also makes a difference.... Jim
 
I think you need to dial to shorter shutter time and raise the ISO accordingly. I try to use 1/800 for in flight and have read lots of posts from people using 1/2000.
I usually use 1/2000, but there was not enough light on this day.
This is a good shot....'sharpness' is not everything. Content is...impact is. Keep that in mind.
Given the weather and your settings....not much you can 'will' upon the camera to make it do more than what you can do. How cropped is this by the way? That also makes a difference.... Jim
Yeah, I like this shot; don't know when I'll get another opportunity like this. I just wish more shots were in focus. I scaled this image some, but the original is still soft.
 
You get the best image stabilization when using an Olympus OS type lens with an Olympus camera. I would not hesitate to buy a used Olympus E-M1 Mark III or Mark IX camera. Succeeding generations have better noise reduction and better autofocus performance. The latest models also have Pro Capture whereby the camera buffers dozens of frames (with Raw format) before the shutter is released and this is great for bird photography where one cannot determine exactly when the bird is going to take off.

The Olympus OS lenses include the 40-150mm f/2.8 and the 100-400mm f/5 to f/6.3 IS lens. Another lens worth taking to Costa Rica is the Olympus 90mm f/3.5 macro lens. It provides the field of view of a 180mm lens on a full frame camera and is great for photographing small frogs and butterflies and small vipers. Best to use with an Olympus compatible flash like the Godox flash with a remote trigger so the trigger is on the camera's hot shoe and the flash can be held off to one side.

want to understand whether a 100-400 lens will be better or a 1.4 TC used with a 100-300 lens would give me a better range plus a good clarity at 400 mm range too
 
want to understand whether a 100-400 lens will be better or a 1.4 TC used with a 100-300 lens would give me a better range plus a good clarity at 400 mm range too
I don't think the 1.4x TC works with the Olympus 100-300mm lens. For what its worth, I find that using the 100-400mm on its own works fairly well, whereas coupling the 100-400 with a 1.4x Tc gives cr#p shots. To answer the question, go for the 100-400mm (which you already have).
SW
 
I don't think the 1.4x TC works with the Olympus 100-300mm lens. For what its worth, I find that using the 100-400mm on its own works fairly well, whereas coupling the 100-400 with a 1.4x Tc gives cr#p shots. To answer the question, go for the 100-400mm (which you already have).
SW
thank you
 
My understanding is that the 100-400 is sharper than the 100-300, and adding a TC will always amplify whatever flaws are present in the lens. Disclaimer: this is impressions from reading other people’s posts, my own experience is with Panasonic lenses.
Niels
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top