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Canon 7D Mk II is announced and available for pre-order (8 Viewers)

If you don't need 10 frames a second, the continuous silent mode offers less mirror vibration and a much quieter shutter. On a recent overseas trip I had complaints that other participants could not hear my shutter when the group was spread out and therefore were not drawn to where I was photographing.

For most of my walk round photography I usually have the 'continuous silent' set.
 
If you don't need 10 frames a second, the continuous silent mode offers less mirror vibration and a much quieter shutter. On a recent overseas trip I had complaints that other participants could not hear my shutter when the group was spread out and therefore were not drawn to where I was photographing.

For most of my walk round photography I usually have the 'continuous silent' set.
If you don't need ten fps there is an alternative to the four fps that the continuous silent gives as a maximum.

I found that on 10fps I was more likely to take two or three shots than a single one on the occasions when I was only intending a single shot of a subject, because the speed of firing sometimes exceeded the speed that I could release finger pressure.

I got around it by reducing the maximum burst speed to 7 or 8 fps. It's in the menu and you still retail a rapid burst speed for when the 4fps in silent mode feels a bit pedestrian.

One from this morning. It was difficult keeping the spot on the bird in a strong blustery wind with a confused background (and foreground, the grassy bank is between me and the bird), but I got a few. This crop is about 60% on a side of the full image.
 

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I know its difficult to tell from web size images Peter but from everything I have seen and read both the 7D2 and 100-400 MkII are better than the original versions so I am surprised that you find it difficult to get pin sharp shots. I take it you do not recommend the combo then!

They are definitely both an upgrade - no question. I guess all I am saying is don't expect miracles. It still requires good technique, good conditions and good persistence to get good results! :t:
 
I set my 7 at 7fps but if out in my gillie suite down a bank I set 4fps in silent mode its one of the main reasons I got the camera .

Rob.
 
They are definitely both an upgrade - no question. I guess all I am saying is don't expect miracles. It still requires good technique, good conditions and good persistence to get good results! :t:
Thanks Peter - no different from any bird photography then :t:. Apart from maybe snapping from a hide/feeder station bird photography is always a challenge which is why we all like it so much I guess - I never expect miracles that's for sure lol.
I have a 7D2 coming today so will give it a whirl (I was a rare fan of the original 7D which I used for 4 years so fairly sure I will get on alright with it).
 
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Thanks Peter - no different from any bird photography then :t:. Apart from maybe snapping from a hide/feeder station bird photography is always a challenge which is why we all like it so much I guess - I never expect miracles that's for sure lol.
I have a 7D2 coming today so will give it a whirl (I was a rare fan of the original 7D which I used for 4 years so fairly sure I will get on alright with it).




Nice to see you finally gave in roy and getting a 7d2



dave
 
Thanks Peter - no different from any bird photography then :t:. Apart from maybe snapping from a hide/feeder station bird photography is always a challenge which is why we all like it so much I guess - I never expect miracles that's for sure lol.
I have a 7D2 coming today so will give it a whirl (I was a rare fan of the original 7D which I used for 4 years so fairly sure I will get on alright with it).

Roy, given in then! I doubt you will be disappointed, mine is superb. Would be interested in what settings you come up with eventually. Look forward to hearing your experiences.

Cheers

Phil
 
Hi, I currently have a EOS 500d and upgraded from a Canon 70-300mm usm 11 to a Canon 400mm L f5.6. I love the lens and am fortunate to spend a lot of time in Spain where light is not a problem and so dont miss the image stabilisation.

I want to upgrade my camera now as I dont think it is getting the best out of the lens. I have been waiting for the 7D11 but have concerns about the AF issues as my knowledge and experience is limited. Additionally in Spain although I often wish for a longer lens I am able to sit quietly and get good close up opportunities as birds seem less flighty there.

I know this question has been asked many times, but for image quality would I be better with the 5Diii overall and does the 5d3 cropped to the same image size as the 7D retain the IQ advantage.

Thanks in advance and apologies for asking again if the answers I am looking have already been covered elsewhere.

Karl

I have attached a few of my photos taken with my current set up for your info
 

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I have a 7D2 coming today so will give it a whirl (I was a rare fan of the original 7D which I used for 4 years so fairly sure I will get on alright with it).

Roy

Look forward to hearing how you get on. I think it is great and a huge improvement on the Mk1.

Colin
 
Canon 7D and 100-400 Mk2

Here is a selection of recent shots - one of which is not a bird but I am looking forward to trying the combo on more insects in the summer.

The butterfly was high up on the garage roof. The Mk1 combo could not have captured the blackbird - at least, in my hands.

It certainly is a learning curve. I always thought that I was constrained by the amount of noise present when using ISOs over 640 with the Mk1 7D. Although I do set shutter speeds for birds in flight and in the bush, for the latter I have greatly increased the aperture in an effort to improve the depth of field; and have found that the resulting much higher ISO values cause little or no problems that cannot easily be resolved. The experiments continue.

None of these shots were taken with the 1.4 Mk3 tc but I am getting more used to using this and the results are not unpleasing.

Colin
 

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Hi, I currently have a EOS 500d and upgraded from a Canon 70-300mm usm 11 to a Canon 400mm L f5.6. I love the lens and am fortunate to spend a lot of time in Spain where light is not a problem and so dont miss the image stabilisation.

I want to upgrade my camera now as I dont think it is getting the best out of the lens. I have been waiting for the 7D11 but have concerns about the AF issues as my knowledge and experience is limited. Additionally in Spain although I often wish for a longer lens I am able to sit quietly and get good close up opportunities as birds seem less flighty there.

I know this question has been asked many times, but for image quality would I be better with the 5Diii overall and does the 5d3 cropped to the same image size as the 7D retain the IQ advantage.

Thanks in advance and apologies for asking again if the answers I am looking have already been covered elsewhere.

Karl

I have attached a few of my photos taken with my current set up for your info

I am not fully equipped to answer your question as I own the 7d2 and not the 5d3. From what I know, the 7d 2 IQ should be on par with a cropped 5d3 image. Most people that use the 5d3 for bird photography use it with a long lens like a 500or 600 f4 plus converters. That is needed because of the loss of the 1.6 crop. If using solely for birds I would (and did) opt for the 7d2. Focus is outstanding on mine. Hope that helps...
 
Here is a selection of recent shots - one of which is not a bird but I am looking forward to trying the combo on more insects in the summer.

The butterfly was high up on the garage roof. The Mk1 combo could not have captured the blackbird - at least, in my hands.

It certainly is a learning curve. I always thought that I was constrained by the amount of noise present when using ISOs over 640 with the Mk1 7D. Although I do set shutter speeds for birds in flight and in the bush, for the latter I have greatly increased the aperture in an effort to improve the depth of field; and have found that the resulting much higher ISO values cause little or no problems that cannot easily be resolved. The experiments continue.

None of these shots were taken with the 1.4 Mk3 tc but I am getting more used to using this and the results are not unpleasing.

Colin

These are all taken with the 7d2 and the 100-400 2? Are they really big crops?
 
Nice to see you finally gave in roy and getting a 7d2



dave

Roy, given in then! I doubt you will be disappointed, mine is superb. Would be interested in what settings you come up with eventually. Look forward to hearing your experiences.

Cheers

Phil

Roy

Look forward to hearing how you get on. I think it is great and a huge improvement on the Mk1.

Colin
Cheers guys :t: I am sure its a nice Camera. I just need some decent light now to try it out (its raining in sunny Devon this morning and yesterday the light was dire). Knowing me it will probably be up for sale in a few months time lol 3:)
I don't think I will every be satisfied until I win the lottery - I could then employ a porter to carry the 1DX and 600/4 MkII for me and we would then fly off to distant lands where getting close enough to nice birds is much easier than in my neck of the woods ;)
 
I know this question has been asked many times, but for image quality would I be better with the 5Diii overall and does the 5d3 cropped to the same image size as the 7D retain the IQ advantage.
Karl,I have the 5D3 and love it but if you are reach limited you will be better off getting a 1.6x cropper IMO. Although the 5D3 images do crop up well you will never retain the same amount of detail that you would get from something like the 7D2 IMHO. Even with 600mm you would be surprised how near you have to get with a full frame Camera (I owned the Tamron 150-600 for a while and found it too short on the FF unless you got fairly close to the bird).
Of course if you regularly shoot from feeder set-ups or hides or if you can get close to the birds then the 5D3 (or better still the 1Dx) would be my choice over any crop Camera.
Another thing to consider is how much photography you do asides from birds and wildlife. I love the 5D3 for things like landscapes and macro. The ideal scenario is the 7D2 for reach limited situations and the FF when you are not.
 
On past evidence Roy you will have it cracked before long and the images will sing. As for the weather just the same up North!

Phil
 
2 questions I am primarily using Case 1. Should I be switching to another Case when shooting BIF? Here is one from today. I have adjust tracking sensititvey to +2, Accel/decl tracking +1 AF pt auto switching +1. Lots of throw aways BIF and its probably just me. Can i get more consistant results like this with another case
I do not think that there is one case that is best for all situations. A lot also depends on which AF area mode you are using and the flying pattern of the bird you are shooting (fast, slow, erratic, steady, large bird or small bird....)

If you are shooting birds against a busy background (especially if you are likely to momentarily lose the bird) then you need a slow tracking sensitivity so the AF gives you enough time to get back on the bird before latching onto the background and going widely OOF. But if you are shooting against a un-cluttered BG (like the sky) then a fast tracking sensitivity could be best.

On the other hand if you are using a multi point area mode (like zone) then you may want a fast AF auto points switching setting especially if you are shooting fast erratic flyers like Swallows or Martins.

How large the bird is likely to be in the frame can also influence the best settings, especially when deciding the AF area mode. For distant birds that will be fairly small in the frame then a wide AF area could work well with fast AF point switching. But if you are likely to get the bird fairly large in the frame then something like zone AF may not be the best as you are likely to get the birds wing in focus and not the head/eye (the Camera will focus on the nearest part in the zone), in this case you may be better using single or single point expansion to ensure the AF point is over the head.

There are loads of different scenarios for BIF so it is not easy to know which are the best settings. At the end of the day I guess if you know what bird you are trying to capture and how near you are likely to get then you need to use settings that are most appropriate. But if you are just walking around ready to snap anything that moves at a moments notice then you just have to use a general case and hope for the best (I tend to use Case1 as a general walk around).

For BIF one of the most difficult/important things is getting the metering right IMHO but that's a whole new topic lol.

P.S. too many choices is making my brain hurt lol - I think I will go back to the 40D where all you had to do was to use AI servo and hope for the best B :)
 
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As for the weather just the same up North!

Phil
On Sunday I am spending the day with relatives so no photography for me, you can bet it will be a nice day Phil :C lets hope it bucks up next week.
 
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