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Knacks, tricks and modifications (1 Viewer)

How about wearing glasses with uncorrected lenses and using binoculars with eyecups in the appropriate (usually) fully-retracted position? The vast majority of contemporary binoculars should then be at a user's disposal.

I understand what you say but it would not solve the problem. The modern binoculars have the furthest (farthest) position to the eyes for glass wearers with the cups retracted so the binoculars are touching the glasses. But the glasses are above the nose at the eye level position, I mean pretty close to the eyes.
In my case for large eyecups that swelling you see in the image blocks the binoculars to not pass the middle of the nose where the swelling is so the binoculars are siting at one third from the tip of the nose. You can see in the picture indicated by the red arrow the position where the binoculars will stay on the nose without being able to be moved closer to the eyes. As you can notice the position indicated of the red arrow very is far away from the eyes, twice as far as the position of the binoculars for watching with glasses (with retracted eyecups).
Because this position is so far away from the eyes the images circles are very small, if the circles are too small than are hard to overlap for getting binocular or 3D vision.

That position (before the swelling) is twice as far away from the eyes than the regular position with eyeglasses on (and eyecups retracted).
 

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I don't mean to sound unsympathetic, but this quest has taken over several threads here now without seeming to approach a solution, or even clearly define one. What are you trying to accomplish? To find a binocular whose IPD and eyecups will fit you when used normally, without glasses? (Why buy one piece after another of random junk? Will any full-sized bin have smaller eyecups than the MeoStar's 34mm?) Or to find some makeshift solution instead by removing the eyecups and holding the bin out in front of your face, in which case you don't need advice at all, as nearly all quality bins have removable eyecups? (This will be tedious in practice, but might be easier to do with a lighter pocket-type model, whose tubes are also narrower to begin with, and IPD as narrow as you like.)

Do consider crinklystarfish's suggestion (#19) of some sort of plain (safety?) eyeglasses, with any decent bin of your choice. Simple, cheap, effective.
 
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Do consider crinklystarfish's suggestion (#19) of some sort of plain (safety?) eyeglasses, with any decent bin of your choice. Simple, cheap, effective.

@tenex Please read the answer I gave about suggestion #19. Is not simple, cheap and effective because it doesn’t work.

It seems that you didn’t read my answer to understand why it doesn’t work. Here is why: Knacks, tricks and modifications

The modern binoculars have the furthest (farthest) position to the eyes for glass wearers with the cups retracted so the binoculars are touching the glasses. Farther than that position (farther than the furthest position) means the user lose a lot of the field of view. You can see the position where the binoculars will stay from the picture I posted at post #21. The swelling will not allow the binoculars with large eyecups to get closer to the eyes (will not allow to get as close as eyeglasses position). That means 2 times or even 3 times farther from the eyes than the position when wearing eyeglasses. You can calculate how small the field of view will be from this distance, for some binoculars the field of view will become so small that might become hard to even overlap the images.

Conclusion: the position where the binoculars are blocked might be 3 times farther from the eyes than the position of plain (safety) eyeglasses you described. Definitely is not the same.
 
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I don't mean to sound unsympathetic

Nice introduction, but you behave like you are. You attacked me several times for trying to find a binoculars fit for my eyes.

but this quest has taken over several threads here now without seeming to approach a solution, or even clearly define one.

Please note that I was attacked several times by you and by Ignatius. You both were not allowing me to continue the threads. Ignatius even insulted me with his sarcasm saying that "I should see a neurologist". Why so much gatekeeping from you both? Who is having to gain from this gatekeeping?

several threads here now without seeming to approach a solution

What do you mean by "without seeming to approach a solution"? After returning both Svbony and receiving the refund I bought a another binocular in January 2025. I bought a roof binocular that is almost large, is 10x40, a Zeiss one I described in the previous posts, and my new acquisition is definitely a progress compared with my previous acquisitions because it fits my face. This can be considered to be an important step in finding a solution for my binoculars face fit.

Why buy one piece after another of random junk?
Because random junk is less expensive to dissect. Think about dissect like in medicine, think of students who are learning in medical school. As is more practical to learn by cutting corpses instead of living humans beings. The same way is more practical to cut random junk instead cutting and risking of destroying several Swarovski binoculars.

That is why I prefer dissecting random junk because are less expensive for experimenting with modding them. And after knowing how to mod junk binoculars there are more chances of using that accumulated knowledge for modding quality binoculars without the risk of destroying them. Without peer help in finding the binoculars fit, finding it though experiments might be costly, do you think I should experiment by destroying some alphas in the process rather than random junk?
 
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I am sorry I can't help you with your binocular questions, Binolover.

It may be a good idea to use the "ignore" button. Just because you are in the same pub doesn't mean you have to talk and reply to everybody. You won't miss much.
 
It seems that you didn’t read my answer to understand why it doesn’t work.
I read it, but didn't quite follow. It's actually difficult to see the width problem from a photo in profile, and I've never seen a case quite like yours before. I'm not sure any of us have.
Nice introduction, but you behave like you are.
I mean what I say; don't insult me by questioning that. You present a strange case, which you haven't explained sufficiently before this post #24, leaving us to wonder exactly what you're doing and why, and think of solutions that may not be likely to help. If you make it clearer what you're up to, what you're asking for and what you're not, and if you stop looking for an occasion to take offense, you'll get better results. If you need our help at all... I really can't see what I could offer further.
 
@tenex this post is also for for you to help you understand

b'lover has difficulties finding matching bins because of a broad nose and narrow set eyes

There is a swelling in the middle of the nose formed after healing from an injury like you can see in the photo of the link I posted. That makes the middle of the nose where the fracture was to be more broad in that area.
Because of that swelling a binocular with large eyecups can’t pass that swelling, will be blocked at that swelling and will usually stay in the position shown of the red arrow, so will stay far away from the eyes (actually will stay far away from the position designed for eye glass wearers).

That will diminish the field of view a lot. Making the binoculars with a very large field of view to be barely usable, to be like cheap ones with a small field of view. And making the binoculars with a medium or small field of view completely not usable, because watching from so far away the user might have hard time to overlap the small image circles (because he/she have the binoculars too far away from the eyes).
I read it, but didn't quite follow. It's actually difficult to see the width problem from a photo in profile

I don’t want to post images that might be copyrighted or the owners might not agree with being posted on other website than a medical surgery website.
But if you want to see from front view you can search google images for the term "saddle nose". The swelling (or the bump) is on the right and the left side of the nose blocking both barrels of the binoculars to come closer to the eyes (if the barrels are large). And the swelling is not cartilage, is bone so is impossible to pass when the eyecups are also made of hard plastic cylinder shape (conical shape might provide more left and right nose clearance).

All I want is to find solutions to pass that bone swelling until the binoculars get the eye glass wearers position. Because getting the medium or large binoculars to fit in the eye sockets is maybe to much to ask.
 
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Are you aware of the old Trinovids?

Thank you for the good suggestion. The old Leitz Trinovids have a great shape, are on my list to search for a good pair.
I am also aware of the new Retrovid, but I wonder do they have replaceable eyecups Leitz Trinovid style instead of the hard plastic ones? I might prefer the old rubber Leitz ones for their enhanced comfort.
 
Without knowing exact measurements involved, from your description above I now doubt that any full-sized binocular will work for you without modification and so won't offer any more recommendations, although I do wonder whether you've tried any small pocket bins (8x20 etc) or would be satisfied with one. As far as adapting some larger model, these days special eyecups can be 3D-printed, but it sounds like the barrel diameter itself is already an obstacle to getting within viewing distance, so I can't easily see what you're envisioning as a solution. The highest eye relief I know of is 23mm on SLC 8x56, which may still not be enough, and comes with a rather fat barrel too.
 
I too was wondering about x20 or x25 'alphas'. Or a good monocular.

Failing that, the only other lateral-thinking potential solution might be an NL used solely with the forehead rest and with eyecups totally removed. If this works, the aesthetics could be tidied up with a 3D printed sleeve or similar.

Though I can see the relevance in trying to help out @binolover, the issues faced may well be better dealt with on a dedicated thread of it's own?

It would be good to see this thread return to more generic 'hacks' in line with the OP's desire to create a thread "...where everyone can post their knacks, tricks or modifications and share their ideas with others".
 
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This thread has been steered way, way off course, and has become dominated by a single quest for a solution to an almost unique situation.

It would be nice if it could go back to what it started out as.
 
This thread has been steered way, way off course, and has become dominated by a single quest for a solution to an almost unique situation.
That's exactly what i was thinking !!!! Not only "steered way", but completely drowned !! This good thread idea is totally drowned for anyone who would discover it.... and this unfortunately happens quite often here.
😕
 
Perhaps OP would be kind enough to start a new one, and we can abandon this one.

I'd second that. I have a few tweaks I'd be happy to post. Many of them appear elsewhere on BF already but are scattered about and lost in time. I'm sure many posters with potentially useful mods are in a similar position and @jafritten's idea of a dedicated and focused thread is a good one.
 
Even lightweight binoculars can be uncomfortable when you wear them on a neck strap.

Some time ago I came up with a solution to this problem.

In the photo below you can see this Peak Design system fitted to my rucksack with a keyring. As you can see it is also a great way to carry a camera as long as the lens is not too heavy and the body is reasonably sturdy. What you see is a Nikon D500 with a 300 PF f4 mounted. It is ready to be fired off. There's no need to disconnect the PD link. It doesn't swing around as you walk. Larger lenses do, however, when the PD anchor link is attached to the tripod socket. (I wouldn't carry a heavy lens with the PD link attached to the body of the camera).

Another way of lifting some weight off your neck is what you see in the picture. I threaded the chest strap of my rucksack through the molle system of the green pouch. The binoculars now sit in the pouch and are more or less just secured by the neck strap. Using it the way I do in the photo, I would say 30% of the weight are on my neck and 70% on the chest strap. One could, of course, wear the chest strap in a different position and this way alter the proportion of the weight distribution.

An added plus is that the binoculars are protected from dust, sand and wet, which is useful in some environments and particularly interesting if you are using a non-sealed binocular like the Nikon E2.

DSC_1611.JPG
 

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