Micro Four-Thirds (1 Viewer)

[DanC.Licks]

Good point, Jules.

 

[cango]

The IBIS on my E-M5 is behaving strange with pronounced vibrations and humming when used on long focal lengths and the EVF image is no longer stabilized as it used to be. I have sent it to Olympus for them to have a look at and repair.

This means I am out of camera for some time, unless I fallback to 4/3 but not having the useful features offered by E-M5.

Have had that issue (or similar) and resolved it by taking out the battery. Have no idea what causes it, but that usually solves the problem for me.

Yes, after awhile it happens again, but it can go many days/hours of using between, and the battery trick always work. Not sure if it's related to the third party batteries, or if it's a camera thing, though.

 

[janvangastel]

When I purchased my OM-D, I also thought the electronic shutter was a worth while feature but, after some research, I quickly changed my mind. I think it is useless for birding.

I use the electronic shutter all the time (in super high burst mode) with my Panasonic G3 camera and never had any problem. I use it because of the 'shutter shake problem' when using the mechanic shutter. This problem is present with shutter times longer then around 1/200. At longer shutter times I had no good picture at all. Using the electronic shutter I can get good pictures even at 1/20 seconds.

 

[JGobeil]

I use the electronic shutter all the time (in super high burst mode) with my Panasonic G3 camera and never had any problem. I use it because of the 'shutter shake problem' when using the mechanic shutter. This problem is present with shutter times longer then around 1/200. At longer shutter times I had no good picture at all. Using the electronic shutter I can get good pictures even at 1/20 seconds.

Yes, shutter shock can be a problem, depending on the camera, the lens, the weight of camera and lens and the shutter speed. You are right about staying at 1/200 s. or higher shutter speeds.

Personnaly, when using the scope or the Panasonic 100-300mm, I try not to go below 1/500 s., boosting ISO as needed. I would rather have a clear photo with noise than a blurred one - noise I can correct (up to about ISO 3200). If I have to use lower shutter speeds, I add a 1/8 s. shutter delay but I don't like it as the delay is enough to miss the shot if the bird is moving.

Well, nothing is perfect: mirrorless have shutter shock, DSLRs have mirror slap...

Regards
Jules

 

[Tord]

Have had that issue (or similar) and resolved it by taking out the battery. Have no idea what causes it, but that usually solves the problem for me.

Yes, after awhile it happens again, but it can go many days/hours of using between, and the battery trick always work. Not sure if it's related to the third party batteries, or if it's a camera thing, though.

Hi Carlos
Thanks for hint, but taking battery out and back did not change to the better.

 

[cango]

Hi Carlos
Thanks for hint, but taking battery out and back did not change to the better.

sometimes (few) I had to do it a few times, as well as tested another batterie. However, I'm not assuming it's the same problem, though it sounds like my experience. Hope Oly can sort it out.

 

[Tord]

sometimes (few) I had to do it a few times, as well as tested another batterie. However, I'm not assuming it's the same problem, though it sounds like my experience. Hope Oly can sort it out.

Carlos,

For what it's worth: I just got my camera back, the report from the workshop says they exchanged the IBIS that was found to be defect.

I also recall and checking in my written notes that the symptoms with vibrations started several months ago, shortly after I got the camera. The vibrations quickly faded though, after a fraction of a second they were gone and the EVF image was stable so I did not bother. I thought you (and other E-M5 users) might want to know, if the guarantee is about to expire you may want to consider sending it to Olympus for check.

 

[Tord]

In preparations for the upcoming weekend today I re-programmed the EM-5 camera settings that the workshop did reset for some reason (there are quite a few that need to be set for optimal use with MF lenses/scopes) and did some test shots to check the behavior was as want it (function keys/ISO/IBIS/EVF/Touch/...)

Within less than 10 test shots fired - guess what happened with the supposedly replaced IBIS on the supposedly checked camera?

I will refrain from expressing my sincere feelings in public, but expressed then attention Olympus management.

 

[DanC.Licks]

You gotta be kidding!:C:C:C

 

[JGobeil]

You gotta be kidding!:C:C:C

:C +1 :C

 

[Tord]

You gotta be kidding!:C:C:C

I wish it was a joke, but it not unfortunately.

I have the behavior on a short movie that clearly demonstrates the issue and how it materializes.

Is there a way to share the movie on this forum?

Or perhaps I should upload it on YouTube?

/Tord

 

[JGobeil]

I wish it was a joke, but it not unfortunately.

I have the behavior on a short movie that clearly demonstrates the issue and how it materializes.

Is there a way to share the movie on this forum?

Or perhaps I should upload it on YouTube?

/Tord

Upload to YouTube and give us the link.

 

[Tord]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQS2Sl8OibI&feature=youtu.be

 

[DanC.Licks]

:c :-c

 

[JGobeil]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQS2Sl8OibI&feature=youtu.be

Quite obvious isn't !

Maybe we are playing with fire using IBIS with a long lens on a tripod. Here is what the manual says:
===============================
Cautions
• The image stabilizer cannot correct excessive camera shake or camera shake that occurs
when the shutter speed is set to the slowest speed. In these cases, it is recommended
that you use a tripod.
• When using a tripod, set [Image Stabilizer] to [OFF].
• When using a lens with an image stabilization function, turn off the image stabilizer
function of either the lens or the camera.
• You may notice an operating sound or vibration when the image stabilizer is activated.
===============================

After hearing about your problems, I became more careful on its use. I found that I don't need it at all times when using 5X magnification to focus. When the image is stable enough, I turn if off.

I hope Oly will fix it for good this time.

Regards
Jules

 

[Tord]

Jules,

The background for not using the IS when mounted on a tripod is that when the tripod is locked the IS might be confused in lack of any vibration. In my case I am using a floating head, the gimbal is not locked. As soon as I hold the camera there will be vibrations, this is also the case as soon as there is any wind to speak of.

The behavior that I documented never occured on the first EM5. I used it for 1.5 months, up until the shutter broke. On the second EM5 it appeared after 4 months use and worsened over the course of time, after 2 weeks it as as bad as on the video. The third camera broke after less than 10 shots.

In the video, I think shutter time is in the magnitude of 1/100s. That is not the "slowest speed".

In my world I am using the camera as intended. The camera supports lenses up to 1000mm. Such lenses are heavy, long and are meant to operate with a tripod.

 

[JGobeil]

Jules,

The background for not using the IS when mounted on a tripod is that when the tripod is locked the IS might be confused in lack of any vibration. In my case I am using a floating head, the gimbal is not locked. As soon as I hold the camera there will be vibrations, this is also the case as soon as there is any wind to speak of.

The behavior that I documented never occured on the first EM5. I used it for 1.5 months, up until the shutter broke. On the second EM5 it appeared after 4 months use and worsened over the course of time, after 2 weeks it as as bad as on the video. The third camera broke after less than 10 shots.

In the video, I think shutter time is in the magnitude of 1/100s. That is not the "slowest speed".

In my world I am using the camera as intended. The camera supports lenses up to 1000mm. Such lenses are heavy, long and are meant to operate with a tripod.

Well, I would rather not take any chances. I have a very solid tripod and a LensMaster RH1 that I don't lock but it is not floating either. I tighten it enough so that I can move it smoothly with some pressure. That's how I like it. Also, I prefer to kneel when shooting so most of the time the tripod has only the largest section of the legs extended. When there is no wind, the rig is stable enough that I don't need to use IBIS, so I turn it off or I keep it ON but I don't half press the shutter to focus.

 

[DanC.Licks]

IS on or off has been discussed at length. I must say, I don't really miss it. I don't have a super tripod, (1980s SLIK pro model, fairly sturdy) but I do have my modded RH-1, which I love. Sometimes you can get away with a lot.
Here is a shot at 1/30 second:

 

[JGobeil]

IS on or off has been discussed at length. I must say, I don't really miss it. I don't have a super tripod, (1980s SLIK pro model, fairly sturdy) but I do have my modded RH-1, which I love. Sometimes you can get away with a lot.
Here is a shot at 1/30 second:
View attachment 470194

Nice and sharp ! With M43, low speeds like this is looking for trouble because of shutter shock, even if it is not always present. I hate using the 1/8 s. delay to prevent SS so I try to avoid going lower than 1/200 s. when birding. Anyway, I rarely get keepers when the light is bad enough that I have to use very low shutter speeds.

With my 100-300mm, I have had some success using the flash in regular sync mode at 1/250 s.

 

[Paul Corfield]

I used to routinely shoot at around 1/50 and less with my old Canon 450D. Mostly that was because I was always trying out teleconverters or TN's but you do get a feel for the techniques needed for working at those speeds. Obviously higher will always be better though.

Paul.