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Ouessant, October 2023 (1 Viewer)

Mark Lew1s

My real name is Mark Lewis
Sunday October 15th

Sure as willow warblers follow chiffchaffs, and by about the same number of weeks, the Ouessant trip report follows the Sanday one. A different flavour all together - dessert perhaps, to Sanday’s main course. This one is a family holiday, with fewer team members and much less intense birding - but the birds can be rarer, more surprising, and more numerous, and the weather is generally nicer. The food is as well, although team Sanday do their best to run it close. For some context on the birds mentioned throughout the report, just imagine you are on Scilly - what's rare there is rare on Ouessant too, with a couple of notable exceptions in the form of Dartford warbler and chough (and I guess perhaps marsh harrier too).

As per usual, the birding starts on the boat. As we left Brest in the half light of dawn, the odd Mediterranean gull went past, but the biggest surprise were all of the Arctic skuas. I counted 9 in all, all reasonably close inshore. I’ve seen 4 different species of skua from these crossings but never such a gathering as this. I considered it an auspicious start, hoping that it meant great numbers of shearwaters further out, but I was dead wrong. We didn’t see a single shearwater, or another skua at all during the rest of the crossing. Instead, we had plenty of razorbills, couple of kittiwake, a Sandwich tern and two distant common scoter.

Once on the island, the standard first day unrolled. Get to the house, dump the stuff, buy loads of food, put it in the house, go out for lunch. I managed 10 minutes at the window during a faffing spell and picked up the first Cettis warbler and water rail, but it was about 2 pm by the time I was out for a walk and finally properly birding. We (me and my Dad) headed north from the house, checking a few gardens and the like along the way, before hitting some more open country along the coast. Among the bushes, it was clear that the island was pretty quiet. There were a few chiffchaffs about but not much else. Siskins passed overhead, and the usual choughs, marsh harrier and Dartford warbler added the very Ouessantine background. We didn’t take long to get jammy. Coming up to the ‘Maison du colours’ we noticed the pile of bikes that can only mean one thing. Rare bird. Scanning the garden behind 15 or so other birders, i soon picked up the bird - a juvenile common rosefinch. A pretty rare bird in this part of the world. Not much of a looker but a good way to get the trip list kicked off.

Further north, at Plage Yusin, the beach held common pipits, and both white and pied wagtail, and further round the coast, at Niou, a black redstart fed along a fence and a merlin posed on a distant bail of hay - no doubt struggling to work out which of the many meadow pipits or passing siskin it was going to try to pick off.

We finished off back in Lampaul, where Prad Meur had chiffchaffs, a couple of firecrest and a lovely spotted flycatcher. It all felt a little quiet, but it felt great to be here again.
 
Monday October 16th.

In the morning, me and Dad headed westward towards a couple of my favourite spots, Kun and Cost Ar Reun, in the shadow of the Creach lighthouse. Once we got out that way, (after noting a golden plover and a couple of groups of chaffinch and siskin on the way out) it was pretty clear that there were birds in. Song thrushes launched out of the bushes at Kun, redwings passed over, and both mistle thrush and fieldfare put in an appearance too. It soon started to hot up. On the sheltered side of one of the clumps bushes, a couple of chiffchaffs flitted along the edge of the cover, and then another bird hopped up from the ground and perched in the open. A little bunting! It sat there for a good few seconds and then flew off. This was the first of several noted on the island today (the only one noted by me, I should add…) There were three ringed at the ringing station and two noted elsewhere, so a little but of an influx. Also here, a tree pipit went over, and the lanes and bushes were alive with the ticks of robins.

On to Cost ar Reun, where a couple of golden plover zoomed over, the odd firecrest zipped about in the bushes, and the now usual combination of siskin and chaffinches, and assorted thrushes filled the air. it was all terrifically birdy.

We didn’t have all morning to please ourselves, unfortunately, so we headed back to Lampaul to meet the gang. Checking the little beach at Porz Noan, Mediterranean gulls loitered and a little egret fed - but they were soon both completely overshadowed by the glossy ibis that drifted past in the distance. Only my second here in 15 visits. More siskin and chaffinches went over, in case that needed to be said.

In the afternoon, things started quietly as we headed from the house towards the reservoirs. in the stang (the little wet bottomed, wooded valley, were water rail, goldcrest and blackcap, and a couple of bullfinch (relatively common migrants here) called too. The first reservoir had very little beyond gulls and Mallards. The second had this morning’s glossy ibis, feeding in among a series of furled mist nets! A grey wagtail fed on the shore, and snipe and mistle thrush were seen in the open country to the south. We then went to check Kerhuel (a lovely little patch where one of this years yellow warblers was found) but could only manage chiffchaff and a spotted flycatcher, so we went on from there to have a look at the big beach in Lampaul Bay - Plage Corz. Earlier in the day, a barnacle goose (quite a rare bird in these parts) had been noted. I wasn’t expecting to to still be there, so arriving at the beach to see a handful of scopes lined up and a barnacle goose loitering with greater black-backed gulls was a very pleasant surprise indeed, and a france tick to boot. Here, there were also 19 mediterranean gulls, and among the graelsii lesser blackbacks were two lovely intermedius birds. I then picked out a 1cy common gull - a bird I’ve never seen on Ouessant or anywhere else in France for that matter. I tried to gauge how rare it was here on the island but couldn’t really get much of an answer - but all comers were agreed that it wasn’t a common bird, even if it was a common gull. A greenland wheatear posed on the rocks, and a kingfisher zipped past over the breakers.

That was all great fun so we called it a day and headed back to the family. We pretty much had to walk around a snow bunting that was very reluctant to get out of the road, and shortly after a buzzard went over, only my second or third on the island. It was all go!

Back with the gang, we took the little one out to the little harbour in Lampaul, fetch some bread, and other rather grown up sounding tasks, but of course the binoculars came along for the ride. And I was glad they did, as on the rocks just outside the port, among gulls and a couple of little egrets, was a cattle egret! Not a regular bird here at all, and only my second on the island after rubbish views of a flyby a couple of years ago. A really great day.
 
Great to read as usual Mark, it’s now 2 Rugby World Cups since we bumped into you on Ouessant, I must really try harder to convince my wife that a second visit is required!
I checked on Common Gull occurrence thereabouts, it seems pretty common on the coast in Finistère and on the islands at the moment, not a one off this year as the same in October 2022 as well, so you must have been spending too much time in those Ouessant brambles instead of beachcombing ;)
 
Tuesday October 17th

An awful lot of fun.

From the outset, as we headed north from the house towards Stang Meur, it was clear that there was going to be a lot of birds around. Thrushes were trickling over constantly - mostly song thrush, but with the occasional group of redwings, fieldfares here and there, and a mistle thrush too. In among these there were the now usual groups of siskin and chaffinch, and the odd skylark passed over as well. There was also a bit more action in the bushes - firecrest numbers had increased and chiffchaffs were much more numerous. There was bound to be some good stuff about.

It took a while to start catching up with it. The first sign of interest was a reed warbler, calling in the bushes at Stang Meur. It felt good to get something that wasn’t a chiffchaff or a robin! From there we went on to Kerzoncou, where one, two, then three ring ouzels burst out from the buckthorn, calling away. A Dartford warbler called here and we were accompanied by more and more song thrush and redwing as we headed round towards Keranchas. There had been a little bunting kicking around in this area but we didn’t spend long looking, Instead we made do with snipe, blackcap, more firecrest, and the first great tit of the trip!

Conscious that the family were up and about in Lampaul we headed back that way, stopping at the bushes at Lann Vras to take in another calling ring ouzel. As we waited it came clear that there were two there, and hoping to see them we waited a little longer. All of a sudden, a ‘tak’ ‘tak’ call came from the cover. Not a blackcap, so interesting. I suspected a lesser whitethroat (a good bird here) and went around the side of the bushes to get a better chance of seeing it. It tacked again, before revealing itself momentarily - a lovely pale, eastern looking lesser whitethroat. To cap it all off, it stopped tacking and gave a few bursts of the brilliant blue tit like ‘chay chay chay’ call typical of eastern taxa. Very exciting for a nerd like me. A stock dove also went over, and as if five wasn’t enough, yet another ring ouzel put in an appearance.

After lunch, we decided to walk along the coastal path that runs along the south side of the bay of Lampaul. Looking back across to Plage Corz, we could see the spoonbill that was reported, (full fat Ouessant tick…) and a whimbrel flew through, calling as it went. Other than that it was quiet until we got to the west end, where a common redstart showed briefly.

From here we moved on to Cost Ar Reun, through an area where a brown shrike had been reported earlier in the day. There was no sign of the shrike, but as we approached the pretty little chapel at Ar Reun, the pile of bikes was a telltale sign. We joined the line of birders to have the brown shrike pointed out as it perched up for a few seconds. It was over in seconds but a really great bird and long enough to take in the features. We moved on via a clump of tamarisks that had at least 15 chiffchaffs and three firecrests, and then my phone pinged. My phone had been pinging a lot - every ring ouzel, merlin, and movement of barnacle goose had been documented on WhatsApp, but this one was worth it. A Blyth’s pipit just 200 yards from where we stood! off we went, waiting while the crowd gathered to get flight views and a few quiet ‘chup chup’ flight calls as it was moved on to show for the crowds. My fourth Blyth’s pipit on Ouessant (or anywhere else, for that matter!).

We were then called to meet the family at the Creach lighthouse. We waited for them at Kun, surrounded by the calls of chiffchaffs and robins, and as they whizzed past on bikes and in taxis, we toddled off on weary feet after them. Of course, this was family time but we were outdoors and there were birds to be seen. Black redstarts flitted on the rocks, and gannets passed offshore. Behind the gannets were a couple of very distant large shearwaters. Through the bins they were not really identifiable but the flight was very much great shearwater. As it passed, an old friend from Aberdeen turned up with a scope and the next time a distant large shearwater went past he was able to confirm the ID as great shearwater. Happy days! the sun was beginning to lose it’s light so I ambled homeward (noting black redstart and curlew along the way) feeling very pleased with how the day had gone…
 
October 18th

The first day of the rest of the week, weather wise. Up to this point, we had had breezy, but mostly dry weather, making birding relatively simple and very enjoyable. From here on in, we were going to have a lot of rain, and would also upgrade from breezy to somewhere between blowy and hold on to your hat…

So, it was into this rain that we set out this morning, walking a route that took in the bushes at Kerhuel, the big, wet stang (wooded valley) at Stang Corz, Plage Corz, and then a coffee in Lampaul, as we anticipated being pretty damp. The birds were definitely not too concerned with the weather. The morning didn’t have any of the vismig of the previous days, but the sheltered side at Kerhuel was jumping with chiffchaffs and blackcap, two black redstart, and a spotted flycatcher - no doubt the same one as earlier in the week. It felt like there really ought to be something more there, and eventually there was - first the silvery belly, and then all the stripes of a very showy little yellow browed warbler. After we were very spoiled for these in recent years, this year has been pretty lean for them and for once, it didn’t feel like a guarantee that we would see one. My Dad got great views too, so happy days.

After this, we stalked through Stang Corz, again noting good numbers of chiffchaff, both goldcrest and firecrests, a fieldfare, and a Cetti’s warbler. Again, we got good views of this and I think it’s only the second I’ve actually seen on the island. Another one that Dad really enjoyed.

From here it was Plage Corz, but it was pretty much devoid of birds, so we called it a morning and went and picked up some groceries instead.

After lunch, in yet more rain and into even windier wind, we decided to walk all the way down to Porz Doun, in the far south west of the island. Frankly, it was a bit of a mistake - it was hard to bird in the wind, and the rain made it pretty unpleasant. The birds agreed, as we saw very little. A couple of wheatear, a very ‘tundra’ looking ringed plover, and a dunlin among all of the choughs, rock pipits, and turnstones. Out to see, 9 Balearic shearwaters went past, but even when the rain stopped it was still all a bit rubbish. A cormorant flew over Plage Corz as we went past, but there was nothing else there at all, so we met the rest of the family in Lampaul and went for a beer. It seemed like the only appropriate thing to do…
 
Thursday October 19th

Well, it seems French weather forecasts are as reliable as British ones. Unreliable. After heavy rain overnight and at first light, we had a day of clear sunny skies, and a wind that was not too heavy at all. It was to be a family day, and the family had chosen to go for a picnic at the very picturesque little port at Arland. This was really good news, because a picnic means time outdoors, and Arland is really good for birds. The gods were smiling on me today.

I had jobs for the morning, such as fetching the picnic stuff. Afterwards, as we waited for the taxi that would ferry the more elderly members of the gang towards the south east corner of the island I grabbed 10 mins by the open window and was really pleased to hear a yellow-browed warbler calling. It was a good day already.

We rode over to Arland and I grabbed a wee 20 mins to walk the wooded valley there. Another yellow-browed warbler called here, with a supporting cast of spotted flycatcher, ring ouzel, fieldfares, firecrests, and goldcrests. Offshore, distant, unidentified shearwaters disappeared in and out of boiling waves, and a cormorant flew past.

Once the picnic was over, we dispatched the team back towards the house on various modes of transport. Dad and I then headed north. First we took in the Stang a Stiff, where there were goldcrests, bullfinch, another ring ouzel, and a lot of chiffchaffs. We then moved further north towards Cadoran. Here, under the shadows of calling choughs, we had what can only be described as a nice long sit down. Out to sea, distant Cory’s shearwaters passed, as did less distant Manx and a single Balearic. Ouessant wise though, the best bird was the juvenile kittiwake that went through the the east. What would really have made the day would have been if we could have identified the dolphin that splashed past. It was a biggun, so either a bottlenose of a Risso’s, but the views were too poor to put a name to it.

We then headed off home, stopping by en route to look at the two little buntings that had become resident at Point Saloun. To say they were tame wouldn’t really cut the mustard. A small group of birders hunched together on one side of the track, while the two little buntings fed merrily a couple of yards away on the other. They would flit up when someone cycled past and then flit back down again, often landing on the same side of the road as their admirers. They were really brilliant and seeing two together, completely at ease with the people around them, was a nod to their remote upbringing.

From here we headed back via the reservoirs (where we added teal to the trip list) and then headed back for for family time, which was primarily a trip to the pub. I’m a very lucky guy.
 
Friday October 20th

Yet another unreliable bit of weather forecasting. This morning was the best we’d had - calm, sunny and warm - and really great for seeing birds. To start the day we set off northwards, re-tracing our steps from the Sunday afternoon that we arrived. At Pennorz, the bushes were alive with chiffchaffs, and the odd goldcrest and firecrest. We also had an interesting pale chiffchaff that did it’s best to look like a Siberian, but with a couple of anomalous features (most notably, the obvious yellow under tail coverts). Not a true tristis, but probably from a long way east… Here we also had mistle thrush, bullfinch and a flyover reed bunting - my first of the week.

On we headed towards Plage Yusin, via the Stang there. I had really high hopes as we were working our way down the sunny side of the cover in such calm conditions, but apart from a few chiffchaffs, the best we could muster up were Dartford and Cetti’s warblers.

The high winds overnight had driven a lot of something up towards Plage Yusin, and I was disappointed not to find anything of note among the hundred or so gulls that were feeding there. I was to have better luck on the beach. Among the turnstones and rock pipits a very smart water pipit crept about. Not the pipit I was hoping to find today, but I’ll happily take what is not a very common bird here. A linnet also flew past and on to the trip list. A couple of common sandpipers got a good grilling for spotted, but no joy, and so we decided to meet up with the family in town.

Once in Lampaul, we met up and immediately split into various factions. Some went for coffee (which was very tempting!) but I ended up heading to Plage Corz to play on the beach and under no circumstances look at any birds at all. Once there I became aware of a small bird diving in the surf, and I knew it was going to be something good before I even got the bins on it. There, looking lost but relieved not to be out to sea, frolicked an immature long-tailed duck! One had been seen from the seawatch point a few hours earlier (about 5 km away, as the lost duck flies), so this was probably the same bird, but I knew it would be in demand so I put the news out straight away. Soon the birders gathered to start enjoying this arctic wanderer, so I left to wander back home for lunch. Just a few yards later and my old friend the Hooded crow flew past. It was good to see it again and I was surprised it had taken me this long to see it during this trip. It had been a great morning but the weather was due to take a turn towards stinking, so it was great to get a good shift in before it became hard work.

At around lunchtime, as if someone flicked a switch, three days worth of forecasted bad weather arrived all at once. So, we hung around the house a bit and drank some tea until it abated and I got cabin fever. We decided that as a gang we would head out to the Creach lighthouse and take in the stormy sea. Well, that’s what the rest did. I had a very frustrating bins only seawatch. There were a lot of shearwaters out there, most of which were large, and too distant for identification. We did get 3 sooty shearwater, 1 Manx, and 2 great shearwaters close enough to ID. A handful of razorbills, and a couple of puffin went past, but very luckily, the closest bird of all was a brilliant Leach’s petrel! A couple of great northern divers also added to the mix, and stirred things up by heading east instead of west.

Soon, the family realised they had made a terrible mistake and they really ought to be indoors, so we jumped in a taxi and headed back to dry off. A really good day, but oh for a telescope…
 
Saturday October 21st

Wet, wet, windy, wet and windy. An awful day, weather wise, so we made use of unbirdable conditions on our last day by packing and cleaning the house. In fact, it wasn’t until the ferry crossing in the evening that we actually spent any meaningful time outdoors. What had promised to be a nightmare crossing actually turned out to be two things - really quite pleasant and really quite birdy.

The first bird of note was another (or feasibly, the same again) common gull. It seems their status here can vary - looking back through previous annual reports, some years have as few as two records for a whole year. This was obviously a better year for them. Not long out of the port on Ouessant we started to see shearwaters - a Manx here, a sooty there, and then bingo, two Cory’s really close to the boat. Auks whizzed past the boat, including a couple of puffins, and then it was bingo again, in the form of a brilliant juvenile Sabines gull.

Further into the crossing the shearwaters dried up a bit, but were replaced by storm petrels - 6 all together, and at one point a huge tuna leapt clear of the water. As the light faded, so did the chances of one last good bird - but we’d done alright, and nobody had been sick, which was a massive bonus…

And that was the end of that. It had been a really satisfying week of birding. Some nice finds with nothing major, but so much quality to keep the interest levels high. Some Ouessant and France ticks, with Sabine’s gull taking me up to 180 for my 15 Ouessant trips. As I sit here in a hotel in Brest, one half of my brain is reminiscing but the other is looking ahead to next year’s trip.... Until next year....
 
Another great read - 5 shearwaters, 2 petrels and a Sabine’s Gull is a great return from bins-only seawatching!

Cheers
Mike
 

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