Ok the final installment.
Sunday 8th was a rest day. We heard that evening that the Crocodile Bridge gate was to be opened the next day, so we decided to go in that way.
Monday just after dawn we were at the edge of the Croc Bridge causeway. We knew the causeway was there as we could see the tops of the concrete blocks which line the sides, but the actual surface was under about 15cm of fast flowing water. I decided that our car was big enough, so we slowly set off. I could feel the water tugging at the car, but we made it across without any incident. At the reception there were only two other cars, both large 4x4's.
Entering the park we could see Marabou stork, Natal Francolin, and despite the fact that we had only just entered a Grey Lourie kept telling us to "go-away". A White Rhino was spotted in the distance (a small one).
Onto the Vurhami Bridge where we spotted a Hippo, Giraffe and a solitary Grey Heron. We turned right onto the S28 dirt road. Here we saw most of the usuals, Helmeted Guineafowl, Red-backed Shrike, Laughing Dove, Cape Glossy Starling, Long-tailed shrike and Swainsons Francolin. We also saw many flocks of Red-billed Quelia - they seemed to be everywhere, and one of the almost constant sounds we heard that day was the whirring of a myriad wings as they took flight from our approach. On the mammal front we saw a Slender Mongoose and were held up for about 20 minutes by a HUGE herd of Buffalo. There was a constant stream crossing the road in front of us. Eventually there was a small break in the flow and we quickly made our way through, otherwise we could have been there for hours - there was no end to the herd in sight. An really awesome sight.
We turned left onto the S137 and made our way to Duke's Dam. We had only visited this once before and it had been dry, so we decided to give it another go. It was a good choice. At the dam we saw Ostrich and a stately Kori Bustard walked across the road in front of us. Sitting for a while at the dam, which had water in it this time, we also saw European Roller, Arrow-marked Babblers, Fork-tailed Drongo, Yellow Hornbill and a superb Tawny Eagle.
Leaving Duke we carried on down the S137 and made our wau back onto the H4-2 tar road heading for Lower Sabie. This stretch gave us White-backed Vulture, Coucal, Fish Eagle, Jacobin Cuckoo, Black-eyed Bulbul, Chinspot Batis, Red-breasted Swallow, Woodland Kingfisher and Pied Wagtail. At one point we came across a flock of Helmeted Guineafowl in the road, both adults and juveniles. We both sighed and knew we were in trouble - we call them Kami-kazi birds. Ok, so we have about 40 HGF on the road, with long grass and safety just centimetres away each side. Which way do they run when you approach - straight down the road. Usually away, but also sometimes straight at you, hence the Kami-kazi name. So away they went, looking over their shoulders to see if we were following, and keeping slap bang in the middle of the road. Occasionally we would stop, some would wander off, and then the game would begin again. I have never known such a stupid bird. Well actually I have, as the Francolins also have a habit of doing this, but they at least have the decency to be on their own, so you stand a chance of getting past without leaving a roadside pizza. HGF - no chance. It took ages to get past this lot.
We took a break at Lower Sabie. From the deck as we had a cool drink and a toasted sandwich we could see Red Bishop, Egyptian Goose, Blacksmith Plover and Carmine Bee-eaters, as well as the usual weavers and sparrows fighting over crumbs.
A quick trip to Sunset Dam gave Yellow-billed Stork, White-crowned Lapwing and Water Dikkop.
We then decided to go back over the Lower Sabie causeway up the H10 and on to Mlondozi. On the causeway we had a Giant Kingfisher pose for shots on the causeway rim. Looking downstream there were quite a few swafts. For those not in the know a swaft is an unidentified swallow, swift or martin. With a bit of patience we eventually did identify one as Rock Martin, which was a first for us. There were also Pied Kingfisher and Common Sandpiper.
Instead of turning right to Mlondozi we carried on up the H10, where we saw White-winged Widow, Elephant and Baboon. At the point where the road turns left in front of the Muntshe mountain, I saw something in the middle of the road. Stopping quickly we saw it was a Flap-necked Chameleon (a new tick!), making its unhurried way across the road. I pulled the car diagonally across the road, leaving space behind me and the chameleon for other cars to pass. The intention was to guard it as it made its slow way across the road, when we would then carry on with our trip. One basic flaw was that the chameleon didn't know our schedule. After about 20 minutes he had rocked back and forth hundreds of times, but only made about 2cm of forward progress, leaving about 150cm still to go! I decided enough was enough and got out, picked him up and put him in the grass near a small tree. Sorry Mr Sanparks.
At the end of the Muntshe range we took the S122 Muntshe loop back towards Mlondozi. This was another road that we had travelled once before and not seen much (2 Secretary birds being a notable exception). This time however it was vastly different - a veritable bird paradise. They were everywhere. The real star for us was that there were dozens of red-footed falcons (kestrels). Which one I hear you ask. Both say I - Eastern (Amur) and Western. And both were new ticks for us. Fantastic. We also had a few minutes head scratching over a bird that kept running in front of the car so we couldn't get a clear look at the front. Eventually it got fed up of the hide in plain sight game and went to the side of the road, where we finally saw it was a Double-banded Sandgrouse. A bit further on and the road was covered in European Swallows. There must have been several hundred, which took off as we approached and landed again behind us. I have no idea what they were doing, but it was a wonderful sight.
We stopped for a break at Mlondozi. Here were Mocking Chat and Black-shouldered Kite, with Vervet Monkeys hanging around and trying to look innocent whilst getting ready to steal food from the unwary.
We took the S29 back towards Lower Sabie. There were more Red-footed Falcon (Kestrel), a juvenile Diederik Cuckoo, a flock of Wattled Starling and a beautiful Purple Roller. We spotted a Natal Francolin standing at the side of the road. He had his head cocked to one side and seemed to be transfixed, staring at the sky. He didn't move until we were about a meter away. He then suddenly seemed to come to his senses and seeing us gave him a terrific fright. He jumped high into the air, turning a full 360 degrees and so landed back exactly where he had started. This seemed to confuse him even more and he ran in a circle several times before finally launching himself across the road and disappearing into the bush. We were in absolute hysterics, and unable to carry on until we had stopped laughing.
As we approached the H10 tar road again we were commenting that we had not seen any small buck, particularly Steenbok which are common in that area, when bursting out from the bushes in front of us came a Steenbok. I managed to brake in time, but only just - the front of the car stopped over it as it slipped and fell, but it scrambled to its feet and shot back into the bushes. After a short pause to draw breath we looked for it again, but it had vanished. That was enough excitement for one day so we decided to head back home.
The road back was uneventful apart from a Martial Eagle in a tree, but too far away for a decent photo. As we approached Crocodile Bridge we realised that we had plenty of time to spare - an unusual occurence for us, so we decided to take a short trip up the S25 and maybe go to Hippo Pools. At the top of the rise before the Hippo Pools turnoff is a little pan, which is usually dry. This time it had water in it, and some birds around so we pulled to the left of the road and started watching. We saw Red-faced Mousebird and in a tree at the far side of the pan an Eastern Paradise Whydah, with that dramatic (and faintly ridiculous) tail. As we were watching we could hear noises in a bush the other side of the road. Catherine had a look and said "there's a tail in there". Immediate thoughts - baboon or monkey. Then she said "It's yellow with a black tip". What!! I had a look and we both said at the same time - LION. We pulled the car over to the right side of the road. As we looked we could see a paw, and another paw, and another tail, and this went on until we knew that there were at least 5 lion in the bush. There was another bought of crashing around in the bush, and we then started to see the lion clearly. They were cubs, about 6-8 months old. Fantastic! We stopped and watched as they would change positions to try to get more comfortable - it was a thorn bush after all.After about half an hour they got fed up of trying to rest in the thorn bush, and came out into the road - all seven of them :eek!: In the usual lion fashion they just sprawled in the middle of the road and ignored the fuss going on around them. A fabulous way to end our time in the Kruger.
Except that it wasn't quite the end - we still had to get back across the causeway, where the water level had risen again. The current tugged hard at us, but we managed it ok. I was glad we were in a larger car - I would not have tried it in a small saloon.
We can honestly say we have never had a disappointing day in the Kruger. It really is a fabulous place.
Well our trip was now over. Another wonderful time in South Africa. 12 new bird spots, Sable Antelope and Wild Dog for Catherine.
Roll on July :t:
Allan
Amazing to see all those buffalo. We had a similar sighting last year, when we estimated that there must be well over 2 000 animals in the herd crossing in front of us and it was the first time we had ever seen such a huge herd, so I am delighted that you did too, perhaps these really big groups are less uncommon than I thought.
