Swift 8.5 differences (1 Viewer)

[Paultricounty]

Does anybody have any information concerning the different models and generations of the swift audubon ? There seems to be multiple examples some of them saying Widefield in the same area than others that say MarkII. Then some have a R designation and another I believe HR5, or something like that.

Attached are two examples, also some of the same models are multi coated and some of them are fully multi coated, we don’t have to get too much into that.

any information is greatly appreciated.

Paul

 

[elkcub]

For your reading pleasure ...

A great deal more information can also be found on this thread, where for example we discovered that the first two digits of the serial number represent the year of manufacture. Cover plate marking are quite variable, and it was only while Renze and I were writing the article did we realized there were major differences between US and European models.

I've attached a picture of the very first Swift Audubon that was sold by Swift & Anderson in 1958 (before s/n dating). I own a beautiful pair, but unfortunately it's missing the original detachable eyecups.

Ed

 

[Paultricounty]

For your reading pleasure ...

A great deal more information can also be found on this thread, where for example we discovered that the first two digits of the serial number represent the year of manufacture. Cover plate marking are quite variable, and it was only while Renze and I were writing the article did we realized there were major differences between US and European models.

I've attached a picture of the very first Swift Audubon that was sold by Swift & Anderson in 1958 (before s/n dating). I own a beautiful pair, but unfortunately it's missing the original detachable eyecups.

Ed

For your reading pleasure ...

A great deal more information can also be found on this thread, where for example we discovered that the first two digits of the serial number represent the year of manufacture. Cover plate marking are quite variable, and it was only while Renze and I were writing the article did we realized there were major differences between US and European models.

I've attached a picture of the very first Swift Audubon that was sold by Swift & Anderson in 1958 (before s/n dating). I own a beautiful pair, but unfortunately it's missing the original detachable eyecups.

Ed

Thanks Ed, that is excellent. That explained everything I needed. 🙏🏼

Paul

 

[Paultricounty]

From what I’m getting is the last HR5 ED was probably the best and last of the Swift porros. As well as the confusion on the same binoculars in some of the lineup that have different names but are the same binoculars. Fascinating.

I Just acquired the one in the left photo that’s marked MarkII, the one in the second photo according to the info supplied here by Elkcub would be the same binoculars but with the right side designation printed wide field.

There seems to be some up and down play in the oculars , the bridge is not firm like my Nikons or swaros. Does anybody know if this is common to these binos? Or is this a repair issue?


Paul

 

[pat mitchel]

That's a bit loose IMO. Under the plastic cap with the IPD marks should be a flanged (typically brass) compression screw- sometimes there's a set screw to lock it into position, sometimes there is simply some thread locker. The compression screw needs to have the setscrew either remover (careful they are small) or loosened extensively and then the compression screw tightened a smidge. If there is threadlocker , the force required to move the screw might be enough for a loose fitting flat screwdriver to tear up the slot. A good fitting flat section to the slot is essential. Good luck, Pat

 

[Paultricounty]

That's a bit loose IMO. Under the plastic cap with the IPD marks should be a flanged (typically brass) compression screw- sometimes there's a set screw to lock it into position, sometimes there is simply some thread locker. The compression screw needs to have the setscrew either remover (careful they are small) or loosened extensively and then the compression screw tightened a smidge. If there is threadlocker , the force required to move the screw might be enough for a loose fitting flat screwdriver to tear up the slot. A good fitting flat section to the slot is essential. Good luck, Pat

I figued it was to much. Its a situation of if I drop it and break , I own it. I think the seller may have to decide. It would be different if these were $500+ bios worth sending in for a tuneup , but at $250 maybe not so much.

Thank you Pat

Paul

 

[pat mitchel]

It's a relative easy fix with the proper tools. I usually learn the hard way that I don't have the proper tools... Regards, Pat