What makes binos "pop" in specific scenarios? (1 Viewer)

[ForkHorn]

Long time reader - and have learned a lot. Finally to the point where I have a question that I couldn't find answered in the search.

What is it specifically that makes specific binos "pop" when viewing in some scenarios and not others? Is it the color and saturation tendencies?


For example - viewing a deer (or bird) laying under a tree in the shade, what are the characteristics of a bino that make that deer "pop" a little more than others?

I have noticed this difference on both expensive and cheap binoculars. And it's not even a Zeiss vs another brand thing as not all Zeiss models are equal in this.

It seems like high contrast is important - but what else? Overall brightness perhaps but I think a brighter bino doesn't always make it easier to see something in the shade.

Color tendencies? Warm vs cool? Green emphasis? Red emphasis?

When I read reviews on new binos like the SFL for example, I'm trying to put what I'm reading into context for a specific purpose.

I quickly get myself confused trying to sort this out in my head. Help! My quest for the perfect lightish 7-8X bino has been a rollercoaster.

 

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One of the main things that make a binocular pop is good contrast, which usually comes from better coatings, so more expensive higher quality binoculars generally have more pop. A porro prism binocular usually has more pop than a roof because of the 3D image it produces. A porro for example will pop a bird out from the back round bush it is in because the image is more stereoscopic and not as flat as a roof. A bigger aperture binocular or one with a larger exit pupil will allow you to see in the shade better.

 

[dries1]

Long time reader - and have learned a lot. Finally to the point where I have a question that I couldn't find answered in the search.

What is it specifically that makes specific binos "pop" when viewing in some scenarios and not others? Is it the color and saturation tendencies?


For example - viewing a deer (or bird) laying under a tree in the shade, what are the characteristics of a bino that make that deer "pop" a little more than others?

I have noticed this difference on both expensive and cheap binoculars. And it's not even a Zeiss vs another brand thing as not all Zeiss models are equal in this.

It seems like high contrast is important - but what else? Overall brightness perhaps but I think a brighter bino doesn't always make it easier to see something in the shade.

Color tendencies? Warm vs cool? Green emphasis? Red emphasis?

When I read reviews on new binos like the SFL for example, I'm trying to put what I'm reading into context for a specific purpose.

I quickly get myself confused trying to sort this out in my head. Help! My quest for the perfect lightish 7-8X bino has been a rollercoaster.

This is why I say try before you buy, use what ever method, drive or mail order because in the long run, you will be more satisfied. See the view through your own eyes.

 

[Maljunulo]

When I read reviews on new binos like the SFL for example, I'm trying to put what I'm reading into context for a specific purpose.

I quickly get myself confused trying to sort this out in my head. Help! My quest for the perfect lightish 7-8X bino has been a rollercoaster.

Can you define “a specific purpose”? What am I missing here?

Your quest for perfection is futile. Stop analyzing them and start looking through some.

Buying by specifications is a great way to end up with a binocular you really don't like.

 

[ForkHorn]

I understand both sentiments. There does not exist a place anywhere within a reasonable distance of me to look through a variety of binos. I am more trying to narrow down which binos I should be focusing on to prioritize what to track down first.

My point (maybe badly explained) is that - the characteristics of some binos lend a hand to being great for looking at birds flying above you against a blue sky, and others at a deer in the fall leaves at dusk. A bino that makes a deer "pop" against a background in the fall is what I am looking for, and not a bino that makes a bird pop against the sky.

What characteristics lend a hand to this in either situation?

I think often times we see people argue about a particular binocular, when in reality they just may be using them in two completely different settings, and the bino tends to be better for one setting than the other.

It seems reasonable to assume that if you had one view occasion in mind, you could design a binocular for that occasion.


I just can't quite put my finger on the what and why and thought heck maybe if I'm over thinking it - maybe someone smarter than me has some thoughts as well.

 

[Patudo]

What does "pop" even mean?

There's another term that gets, or used to get, thrown about a lot - "wow" - but no one ever attempted to define what that meant either.

 

[ForkHorn]

That's a great question. I think for me it just means to make them stand out more. Some binos emphasize certain colors more than others, and some have higher contrast than others - and some maybe more 3D.

It seems that every sum of its parts tends to enhance different aspects of an image.

I may be doing a poor job of explaining this.

 

[Maljunulo]

The only thing I can tell you is that good optics suit multiple purposes, and because they are better, their images are better.

If you can, buy the best, and if you aren’t happy with the best, there isn’t much that can be done.

You may be searching for something that only exists in your own head.

Best of luck to you.

 

[ForkHorn]

That is great advice. However, I own Swarovski 15x56 SLC HD for its specific purpose. It has little competition in it's niche currently.

Every manufacturer has a premium bino in the 7-8x range that could fit my purpose/niche. I am just trying to narrow that down. I may be too hyper critical in my thoughts that every tool has a specific purpose that it does better than other things.

I don't want to use a Corvette or a BMW when maybe I need a Raptor? All fast and expensive vehicles built for different purposes.

I may be crazy - but I firmly believe if you lined up every bino in existence and pointed them all at a deer laying in the shade under bad light, one or two binos would stand out.

And I bet those binos would share common characteristics. Probably high contrast in dark colors, a specific color tone, and the best 3d image available?

Perform the same test identifying white seabirds on a bright sunny day, and another bino would likely win. I'd likely want a different color tone? Probably an emphasis on larger FOV? Quick focus? Etc. Maybe 3D is not as important in this case.

I imagine if I wanted to look at the night sky specifically, that binocular would have different characteristics than either of the above?

A new manufacturer could pop up and advertise their specifications, and coatings as for a specific purpose (designed to see white birds on a blue background streaking by you, or designed to have brown deer stand out against the background, etc) and I think they would have customers. The question is - how would they get about there?

 

[Maljunulo]

Enjoy your quest.

I do not accept your premise, but we are just having a circular discussion at this point.

 

[ForkHorn]

I'm not sure it's circular to say some binocular designs and coatings see into.the shade better than others.

Dennis has a great start - and maybe it's as simple as that. The highest contrast bino coatings with the biggest aperture. Porro over roof if the form is not important.

Leica tends to have more contrast in their images but that is not always the case as a rule.

Zeiss as an example has changed their color tendencies from SF to SFL

 

[Patudo]

This is where you need to try the different candidates yourself, ideally in a realistic or semi-realistic field situation, and find out which best suits your own eyes and perceptions. If there's one thing I've learned in reading this forum over the years it's that people, quite literally, see things differently at times. Even within my own family, my mother and brother see the top side of Trump's Boeing 757 (to use a current example!) as dark blue, where I see it as dark grey. It varies even from my left to right eye - one has a slightly greener hue and the other slightly redder!

It seems that the perception of colour is very important to you, and if you've been on this forum a while, you'll have been informed as to which binoculars from S, L, N and Z are the "alphas" (whether you want to or not!) - so it's up to you from here on really.

I remember reading that the green cast that some Zeiss models lean towards (NB. in my own experience these seem to be very neutral now) is supposed to make browns stand out. But I can't honestly say I have really perceived this myself when looking at brown birds amidst greenery or other backgrounds. Making colour stand out in the shade strikes me as being a pretty difficult job. In the shade even the most colourful birds can seem remarkably subdued, let alone animals that are better camouflaged. I'd agree that in general, the poorer the light the more helpful larger objectives become - but when you get into x56 or even x50 territory that is no longer a lightish binocular.

 

[Aquaplas]

All alpha Binos are different in different light situations. On cloudy days my SF 8x42 has more pop than my SFL. On sunny days the SFL pops more. There are also some backlight situations where my NL Pure 8x42 is unbeatable in pop….
I also have a Habicht 7x42 GA a EL 8.5x42 and a small Victory Pocket in 8x25. When I look out of the window and see the daily light, I know with wich Bino I go for today.
What I like to tell you, the „pop“ from what you speak is this day early morning with the SFL better, and next day maybe with the NL Pure.

 

[Scott98]

the more money you spend, the more they "pop"

 

[William Lewis]

It's a tricky one. For what its worth all binoculars will struggle with certain lighting conditions, it's just some will struggle less than others.

The worse for me when trying to get good details of plumage are small birds on the wing (or large birds at great distance) or birds silouetted against a bright sky. My vintage single coated Carton 10x50's really struggle with these situations, my bang up to date e2 8x30's or SLC 8x56hd's struggle much less.

A nice sun behind your head view into a well lit area will make most well built, cheap or pricey bino's show good detail. There is honestly not much difference between a cheap/old/mega money/mid range bino in these conditions, they will all work miracles compared to naked eye viewing in gaining detail or if you prefer "pop".

Will

 

[Swissboy]

..........................................they will all work miracles compared to naked eye viewing in gaining detail or if you prefer "pop".

I think the term "pop" does not simply mean to show details. Rather, the details stand out suddenly, without having to fiddle a lot with the focuser before it is clear that the view is optimal. In this, the SFL truly shines much of the time, more so than most others, and probably more so than any other ones in its price class.

 

[claves_10]

Pop and never stop, well buy one and you will see how you soon be eager to buy another one soon.
What they have mention earlier is correct, the more money you pay the more features you will get. THOUGH no bino will be absolutely perfect. Some are the ergonomics, some are the focus wheel, some maybe glare, some easy fogginess, some perfect eye positioning. What I try to say here is that binos come as a bundle, not only should you rely on just optics.

 

[Elkhornsun]

Agree that coating make a great deal of difference but most bino manufacturers know how to apply coatings to minimize internal reflected light from the surfaces of the elements. Coatings are also not color neutral and so there is a subjective aspect when comparing two different ones.

Magnification also is a factor and my 10x binos make subject identification easier in any amount of light compared to my 8x ones.

 

[tenex]

A bino that makes a deer "pop" against a background in the fall is what I am looking for

Welcome to Birdforum.

Although this sounds like a different activity, and models designed for that might in general perform a bit better due to their choices in contrast (useful for discerning edges) and color (emphasizing some over others). But I don't know to what extent that's really the case, or what your typical lighting conditions are. How well do you think your SLC 15x56 performs in this respect? Although I love mine and it does well in low light, it has only moderate contrast and rather neutral color. Interestingly the 42mm SLCs are rather different, with more contrast and a warmer-amber cast, and their new brown/orange armor (as Kahles Helia S) suggests a target audience, so to speak. But all such differences are really quite modest, and the view would be rather unpleasant if they weren't. In fact I thought contrast overdone in SFL 40... though that could be just what you want for this purpose. But don't expect too much: there's no getting around the fact that, deer having evolved not to "pop", it's up to you to notice them.