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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Is the SF better than the SV (4 Viewers)

Well said and I'm glad an earlier post seems to have been removed, it seems some can't reply in a mature and constructive manner without the need to resort to crude and misogynistic language and insinuation.

Andy

Don't forget what I posted about stiff eyecups facilitating 'in-between' settings. It helped me and might help you.

Lee
 
Andy

Don't forget what I posted about stiff eyecups facilitating 'in-between' settings. It helped me and might help you.

Lee

If that works for you, Lee, then you've clearly benefited from an otherwise flaw in a product - which is lucky and thanks for bringing your comments to add another experience to the posts. The point I'm really making and will leave alone now, as it's becoming overworked is the obvious need for tighter design, manufacturing and quality standards for premium products.
 
If that works for you, Lee, then you've clearly benefited from an otherwise flaw in a product - which is lucky and thanks for bringing your comments to add another experience to the posts. The point I'm really making and will leave alone now, as it's becoming overworked is the obvious need for tighter design, manufacturing and quality standards for premium products.

First production runs are known for having issues, doesnt matter whether it's a $50,000 auto or a $100 camera. Theres a reason a lot of folks give brand new items a bit of a wide berth until it's sorted.

I wouldnt make anything out of it unless it continues.

My Conquest were notchy also, I used a small dot of silicone o-ring lubricant on it and they work smooth but firm now. But for the most part, my eyecups are set and forget. I hardly ever move them after I set them.
 
Thanks for the tip, Bob. I've not actually taken them off. But when turned to the left and full extension they then just keep rotating rather than actually coming off, or unscrewing and if I do try to tighten them after they are on full retraction they just keep rotating to the right.

Andy,

If they do this there can be only two conclusions: 1. They were designed this way and the eye cups can't be removed. Or 2. There is something wrong with them.

I suggest that you contact the place where you purchased them and ask them about it.

I also suggest you go through the instruction manual that came with the binocular. If the eye cups can be removed there should be instructions in it on how to do it. Here are the instructions for mine:

"Cleaning and changing the eyecups
The eyecups (complete modules) can be removed from the binoculars for cleaning and exchange.
Turn out the eyecup counter clockwise to the stop then unscrew it completely via the thread (continue to turn in the same direction). After cleaning or exchange, turn the eyecup clockwise to the lowest click stop position. Then attach the module to the binoculars, through the rubber edge of the eyepiece tube, turn it in clockwise as far as it will go and tighten it."

Bob
 
Thanks for the tip, Bob. I've not actually taken them off. But when turned to the left and full extension they then just keep rotating rather than actually coming off, or unscrewing and if I do try to tighten them after they are on full retraction they just keep rotating to the right.

Andy:

Your posts about the eyecups on these may be a common issue, as
Zeiss issued another option on the new Conquest to offer the best
choice in eye relief options. They provided the other ones upon
request. I have the Conquest, and have both sets of eyecups.
I don't use glasses so either one works well for me.

The Conquest has 2 intermediate stops between full up and down.
They are made of plastic, and they do not offer the confidence of
the metal types found on other models.

The plastic ones do not seem to be as strong, and you need to retract
the eyecups with the Zeiss models just to squeeze them into the
case, that I have found they designed that way. That may be an issue
if you use the case much.

I owned the FL for a while, but I do not recall the eyecups and
construction, as I found them well done.
I am wondering about the HT and the new SF, are the eyecup barrels
plastic or metal ?

The advice offered above is sound, make sure they are on tight, and work
with the detents, there should be 2 int. stops.

Jerry
 
Andy:

Your posts about the eyecups on these may be a common issue, as
Zeiss issued another option on the new Conquest to offer the best
choice in eye relief options. They provided the other ones upon
request. I have the Conquest, and have both sets of eyecups.
I don't use glasses so either one works well for me.

The Conquest has 2 intermediate stops between full up and down.
They are made of plastic, and they do not offer the confidence of
the metal types found on other models.

The plastic ones do not seem to be as strong, and you need to retract
the eyecups with the Zeiss models just to squeeze them into the
case, that I have found they designed that way. That may be an issue
if you use the case much.

I owned the FL for a while, but I do not recall the eyecups and
construction, as I found them well done.
I am wondering about the HT and the new SF, are the eyecup barrels
plastic or metal ?

The advice offered above is sound, make sure they are on tight, and work
with the detents, there should be 2 int. stops.

Jerry

I have never had to retract mine to close the case?
 
Andy,

If they do this there can be only two conclusions: 1. They were designed this way and the eye cups can't be removed. Or 2. There is something wrong with them.

I suggest that you contact the place where you purchased them and ask them about it.

I also suggest you go through the instruction manual that came with the binocular. If the eye cups can be removed there should be instructions in it on how to do it. Here are the instructions for mine:

"Cleaning and changing the eyecups
The eyecups (complete modules) can be removed from the binoculars for cleaning and exchange.
Turn out the eyecup counter clockwise to the stop then unscrew it completely via the thread (continue to turn in the same direction). After cleaning or exchange, turn the eyecup clockwise to the lowest click stop position. Then attach the module to the binoculars, through the rubber edge of the eyepiece tube, turn it in clockwise as far as it will go and tighten it."

Bob

Thanks for taking the time to type this out, Bob.

The instructions for the SF are slightly different, but similar in principle although what they say doesn't actually work with my pair. The issue wasn't the removal of them though, but somehow it drifted over to that. I did contact the retailer on Saturday and they emailed Zeiss straightaway. I've full confidence in the retailer and I think what I need is a replacement pair of eye cups and the correct size protective lens caps. I think I've made it clear in previous posts how disappointing the quality of these eye cups are compared to my Swarovski SVs or even my Kite Lynx, so I won't labour that any further and just hope that Zeiss can speed things up. I am aware the Zeiss rep has been given my email, but as of yet I've not heard anything.
 
Andy:

Your posts about the eyecups on these may be a common issue, as
Zeiss issued another option on the new Conquest to offer the best
choice in eye relief options. They provided the other ones upon
request. I have the Conquest, and have both sets of eyecups.
I don't use glasses so either one works well for me.

The Conquest has 2 intermediate stops between full up and down.
They are made of plastic, and they do not offer the confidence of
the metal types found on other models.

The plastic ones do not seem to be as strong, and you need to retract
the eyecups with the Zeiss models just to squeeze them into the
case, that I have found they designed that way. That may be an issue
if you use the case much.

I owned the FL for a while, but I do not recall the eyecups and
construction, as I found them well done.
I am wondering about the HT and the new SF, are the eyecup barrels
plastic or metal ?

The advice offered above is sound, make sure they are on tight, and work
with the detents, there should be 2 int. stops.

Jerry

Thanks for the response, Jerry.

The SF eyecups are plastic and feel very cheap, not least when compared to the precision of the rest of the body and especially in the context of the £2,000+ price tag. Re the intermediate stops, on mine there is definitely only one, whereas the Instruction booklet states there should be two.
 
Thanks for taking the time to type this out, Bob.

The instructions for the SF are slightly different, but similar in principle although what they say doesn't actually work with my pair. The issue wasn't the removal of them though, but somehow it drifted over to that. I did contact the retailer on Saturday and they emailed Zeiss straightaway. I've full confidence in the retailer and I think what I need is a replacement pair of eye cups and the correct size protective lens caps. I think I've made it clear in previous posts how disappointing the quality of these eye cups are compared to my Swarovski SVs or even my Kite Lynx, so I won't labour that any further and just hope that Zeiss can speed things up. I am aware the Zeiss rep has been given my email, but as of yet I've not heard anything.

Andy,

I'm confident that Zeiss will sort this out for you in a satisfactory manner.

I haven't had the opportunity to try the new SF yet but I can tell you that the discontinued Victory FLs casings were made of "fibre-reinforced plastics----and padded with high quality rubber." See a picture (and the full statement) below of a cutaway view of a 7x42. The eye cups on mine are made of the same material and I have had no problems with them nor have I heard of any problems with them.

http://www.allbinos.com/238-binoculars_review-Carl_Zeiss_Victory_8x42_T*_FL.html

I never heard of these Victory FLs having problems because of their construction but there seemed to have been some lingering doubts in some potential buyers minds about it based on internet conversations here.

The SF has a different prism system. I don't know about the materials used in it's construction.

The 4 alpha binoculars all have removable eye cups for easy cleaning and replacement if necessary. Nikon EDG and Zeiss Victorys have multiple position eye cups that screw out; Nikon's are metal. Leica Ultravids have multiple position eye cups that can be pulled out and Swarovski has 2 position eye cups that screw out for all of their new binoculars. And if you want black colored eye cups for your tan colored "Traveler" versions you can purchase them separately.

Additionally the lens caps on mine work and fit perfectly.

Bob
 
Last edited:
Hi Andy

I have been reading your post with great interest. Having sold or traded off my various Swarovski binoculars, I acquired a pair of Zeiss HT 8x42's last year that I am very pleased with.

Concerning the problems that you are experiencing, I am surprised that with such a limited and special production of the SF's that there would be little opportunity for Zeiss to have packed the wrong size lens caps especially as the SF only comes in the 42 mm size at present. Also, I am surprised that packing by Zeiss, would cause a zipper tab to damage the protective covering.

Is it possible that your pair was opened by the retailer and tested against other binoculars and in re-packing, the lens caps were mixed up and came from another pair and the case was incorrectly re-packaged as well. Too much to believe that they came from Zeiss in this manner. Was there any telltale evidence of dust or heaven forbid, finger marks anywhere on the SF's ?

As others have suggested, the HT eyepieces have two detent positions and are smooth in between. I would think that the SF would be similar.

Hope you can have these issues resolved and quickly.

Doug.......
 
Hi Doug
I'm surprised, too, by Zeiss packing the wrong items and re the zipper tab I can only report what I find. It's a weak design within the case from that point of view, but the dents do release after some hours out of the case and if you're careful with the positioning of the zip tab you can avoid it occurring - but should that care have to be needed?
The retailer only opened to box for an initial check and I would trust them implicitly not to mix things up. I've bought several binoculars from them and their service is the best I've experienced from any retailer of any products. When I opened the box everything was as expected for new items. Yes, the SFs should have two intermediate settings but mine definitely only have one. All I can imagine is that somehow - and it's up to Zeiss to determine how - some lens caps from a larger binocular were picked up by mistake and put in the box.
 
If it ends up that the SF is optically little to no better than the current SV and HT,then does Swaro introduce a new model to try and advance the state of the art, or do they stay where they're at ? Maybe the SF, HT and SV are going to be hard to improve upon to any noticeable degree.
 
If it ends up that the SF is optically little to no better than the current SV and HT,then does Swaro introduce a new model to try and advance the state of the art, or do they stay where they're at ? Maybe the SF, HT and SV are going to be hard to improve upon to any noticeable degree.

From my experience and from only a few days use I think Zeiss have raised the bar a notch with how comfortable the SF is to use, due to the change in weight distribution. I was more than happy with the handling of our 10x42 SV, but once I tried the 10x42 SF I realised where Zeiss had moved ahead. I guess if you're out all day observing then it's not just the optics to consider.
 
If it ends up that the SF is optically little to no better than the current SV and HT,then does Swaro introduce a new model to try and advance the state of the art, or do they stay where they're at ? Maybe the SF, HT and SV are going to be hard to improve upon to any noticeable degree.

bh I am sure you are right in that improvements will now come in smaller increments than 20 years ago, but that whacking big FOV of the 8x SF isn't a small step. Yes owners of some 7x have experienced this for years but in 8x it is something else. I am not a 10x user and have only briefly looked through a pre-prod 10x SF so can't say whether regular 10x users will be as impressed with its FOV as I am with the 8x.

Of course not everyone will be so excited by the FOV but for much that I do this is an important factor.

Lee
 
If it ends up that the SF is optically little to no better than the current SV and HT,then does Swaro introduce a new model to try and advance the state of the art, or do they stay where they're at ? Maybe the SF, HT and SV are going to be hard to improve upon to any noticeable degree.


It's all going to be down to FOV - either that is a step up [to you] or not. Optically I wasn't expecting a big leap [or any leap] from the HT.
 
Hi,

Does the SF have similar hold, feel and balance to the HT ? They appear to be based upon a similar design with the 'weight' pulled back towards the eyepieces.

Doug....
 
Did you walk them, or did they walk you ?:-O I've been around several border collies over the years, and they are a very intelligent as well as a VERY intense animal .

It's negotiated between us........I think....

We've always had border collies and would never have anything else. We did stray once to a having a rescue traihound from the Lake District in England, but as he kept escaping from our garden into a neighbour's, who's a retired vet and who adored him, between us we decided that he could stay with her.
 
Hi,

Does the SF have similar hold, feel and balance to the HT ? They appear to be based upon a similar design with the 'weight' pulled back towards the eyepieces.

Doug....

Doug

SF feels like an evolution of the HT, you can tell if follows the same line of reasoning when it comes to the hand grip.

However the focus wheel is a little nearer to the eyes and the weight is rather more shifted towards the eyepieces. The result is that the usual weight hanging right down there at the objective lens end of the barrels is significantly reduced. So the wieght feels more contained in and near the hand, and especially if you are looking upwards to any degree, some of the weight is born by your face/eyebrows/spectacles.

This is no criticism of HT which to my mind handles really well. I suspect SF will be better for longer periods of viewing but until I try a production unit (I have only tried pre-prods so far) I can't say for sure.

Try one.

Lee
 
Just an update on my situation. I have heard back from the retailer and Zeiss are going to send out the correct size of lens caps, and fingers crossed it is being checked if there are any available in the UK otherwise they'll be sent from Germany.

The issue of the eyecups was side stepped a bit and I've reiterated my dissatisfaction with them, not least that if you can get them to bed in and ease off to how they should be then they can disengage from the locked position, especially when you press on the rain covers [and I wasn't pressing firmly]. This lack of locking has also been identified in a pair of new 8x42. Replacements have now been requested. Also, despite what is in the small instruction book there is only intended to be one intermediate setting in the eyecups, which suggests that there has been some copy and paste from another binocular's instruction book - or there has been a change in the eye cups since printing.
 
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