Half day in Marrakech, half day in Essaouira (1 Viewer)

[Tony Knight]

Hi

We have 2 half days to play with as part of an Exodus tour to Morocco in a week from now.

Are there any good parks or sites within a 30/60 minutes commute of each that I can use to get in a bit of birding while my wife hits the markets or beach ?

thanks
Tony

 

[dwatsonbirder]

Marrakech: I'd recommend Menara gardens (African subs of Magpie and chaffinch), with Sardinian warb, Common Bulbul and House bunting on tap. Should be a few other bits about too. Don't forget to look up as Little swift is generally hawking above the streets. Earlier in the year there was an area near the Argan Golf course which was being developed, but I was Long legged buzzard, Crested lark and Southern Grey Shrike in the immediate area. Hope this helps!

 

[Jos Stratford]

Hi

We have 2 half days to play with as part of an Exodus tour to Morocco in a week from now.

Are there any good parks or sites within a 30/60 minutes commute of each that I can use to get in a bit of birding while my wife hits the markets or beach ?

thanks
Tony

The Bald Ibis cliffs should be within your suggested times from Essaouira.

A bit beyond your time limits (75 km on winding roads), but Oukaimeden is an excellent locality from Marrakesh if you can extend to a long half day or better a whole day.

 

[timsg80]

Bab Ourika was somewhere we spent half a day from Marrakech. We saw Levaillant's Woodpecker, Barbary Partridge, Bonelli's Eagle, Moussier's Redstart; Cirl, Rock and House Buntings everywhere, Sard warblers, African Blue Tits, Serins, Lanner Falcons, Black Wheatears, Hawfinches and much much more. It's about an hour from Marrakech and you can get a great lunch at the hotel there and then walk up into the wild hilly habitats behind the hotel. You'll also see White Storks on the way there.... Essaouira I can't help with too much, though we stayed at nearby Sidi Kaouki which held loads of Moroccan specialities including Moussier's, Sard Warblers and LOADS of Little Owls along with Brown-throated Martins and Ospreys. It's about 30 mins from Essaouira. Essaouira itself is pretty good for birds- look out for Western Reef Egrets and rare gulls there (they'd had Glaucous Winged before and I had Moroccos third ever Glaucous Gull right in the town this January).

 

[trw]

If you get a petit taxi to Diabet you will find the river starts to flow into the sea.
There is scrubland before and beyond the river which was full of birds along with the waders and seabirds.
It is only about 10 minutes by taxi from the old city walls.
I have pasted a copy of my report which gives you some idea of the birdlife around there.We were there in Spring so I don't know what it will be like in October.


Report
This report may be useful for anyone staying in the area or those travelling around Morocco in search of birds. We stayed in the idiosyncratic Riad al Medina within the town walls.

The outstanding place without doubt is the area bounded by the main road south starting from the dirt track to your right as you head south. To save the hard slog I took a petit taxi at and alighted at Parc Provincial, the camping site. This leads to Diabet. From here you walk through an extensive area of shrubs and trees till you reach the road crossing the river.

Thence you can walk east along the river for as long as you like or west to the mouth of the river as it reaches the sea. Early morning or late evening is the best.

Species seen starting from the sea end were:

Audouin's Gull, Yellow-legged Gull, Black-headed Gull, Lesser Black-backed Gull, Sanderling, Common Tern, Sandwich Tern, Ringed Plover, Little Ringed Plover, Kentish Plover, Osprey, Cormorant [moroccanus], Spoonbill [maximum 11]. Little Egret [very common], Grey Heron, Avocet, Little Stint, Curlew Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper [common], Grey Plover, Dunlin [common], Knot, Black-winged Stilt, Greenshank, Redshank, Green Sandpiper, Kingfisher, Cattle Egret, Chaffinch [NW African sub-species], Yellow Wagtail [Iberiae], White Wagtail [subpersonata] Serin, Greenfinch, Rock Sparrow, Sparrow, Sand Martin [very common], Red-rumped Swallow, Barn Swallow, Swift, Black-eared Wheatear, Turtle Dove, Collared Dove, Wood Pigeon, Feral Dove, Cuckoo, Sardinian Warbler [common], Subalpine Warbler, Grasshopper Warbler, Blackcap, Willow Warbler, Common Bulbul, Woodchat Shrike, Great Grey Shrike, Kestrel, Common Snipe, Moussiers Redstart, Song Thrush, Blackbird, Linnet, Goldfinch, Crested Lark, Hoopoe, Spotless Starling [65 Species].

There were 2 very small warblers with tails sticking up keeping to the low shrubs. Could have been Dartford Warblers but no positive id.

A Wild Boar and 5 piglets appeared one evening.

The area around the port of Essaouira and the ramparts are worth close attention too.

The birds seen here were Slender-billed Gulls [8 one day], Audouin's Gulls [maximum of 4 together], Yellow-legged, Black-headed and Lesser Black-backed Gulls, passing Common, Little and Sandwich Terns, Turnstone, Oystercatcher, Whimbrel, Gannet, Common Scoter, White Wagtail [subpersonata], House Sparrow, House Bunting and a reported Collared Pratincol.

The other two areas worth a visit are Sidi Kouaiki and Moulay Bozerkaton about 25 km South and North respectively.

Both are blessed with miles of beaches backed by shrubs and in the case of Sidi Kouaiki a large Argan Forest.

There were Bar-tailed Godwits, Grey Plover, Ringed Plover and Sanderling at Moulay Bouzerkaton. At Sidi Kouaki there were many of the familiar waders,as well as House Martin, Meadow Pipit, Linnet, Goldfinch, Sardinian Warbler and Blackcap. Look in the extensive Argan Forest behind the car park. I found a Mousiers Redstart with ease here.

 

[Tony Knight]

The Bald Ibis cliffs should be within your suggested times from Essaouira.

A bit beyond your time limits (75 km on winding roads), but Oukaimeden is an excellent locality from Marrakesh if you can extend to a long half day or better a whole day.

Thanks Jos. I'll google the bald ibis cliffs and see how best to get there. Oukaimeden sounds like it might be a little too far so will probably stick to one of the parks in or near Marrakesh. Not sure if that's a mountain/hilly site but we will also have a couple of days in the Atlas mountains though I'll be walking with a group so it will be a case of trying to see and photo what I can before the noise of the group scares it off !!

 

[Tony Knight]

Bab Ourika was somewhere we spent half a day from Marrakech. We saw Levaillant's Woodpecker, Barbary Partridge, Bonelli's Eagle, Moussier's Redstart; Cirl, Rock and House Buntings everywhere, Sard warblers, African Blue Tits, Serins, Lanner Falcons, Black Wheatears, Hawfinches and much much more. It's about an hour from Marrakech and you can get a great lunch at the hotel there and then walk up into the wild hilly habitats behind the hotel. You'll also see White Storks on the way there.... Essaouira I can't help with too much, though we stayed at nearby Sidi Kaouki which held loads of Moroccan specialities including Moussier's, Sard Warblers and LOADS of Little Owls along with Brown-throated Martins and Ospreys. It's about 30 mins from Essaouira. Essaouira itself is pretty good for birds- look out for Western Reef Egrets and rare gulls there (they'd had Glaucous Winged before and I had Moroccos third ever Glaucous Gull right in the town this January).

Thanks. You mentioned that Essaouira is good itself - any places in particular ? I'm keen to make sure I see a Moussiers at some point.

Thanks
Tony

 

[Jos Stratford]

Thanks Jos. I'll google the bald ibis cliffs and see how best to get there. Oukaimeden sounds like it might be a little too far so will probably stick to one of the parks in or near Marrakesh. Not sure if that's a mountain/hilly site but we will also have a couple of days in the Atlas mountains though I'll be walking with a group so it will be a case of trying to see and photo what I can before the noise of the group scares it off !!

Any bus going to, for example, Agadir should go directly through Tamri. From here, you can walk to the sites - the cliff tops and slopes north and south can hold the birds, and towards evening they sometimes fly over Tamri itself.

 

[Tony Knight]

Any bus going to, for example, Agadir should go directly through Tamri. From here, you can walk to the sites - the cliff tops and slopes north and south can hold the birds, and towards evening they sometimes fly over Tamri itself.

Thanks Jos.

Google maps suggests its 120km (2hr) south so might be too far to fit into a strict 4-5 hr slot.

ps Our mountain trekking is near Tamatert so looks like its pretty close to Oukaimeden so hopefully i will get the same species there ?

Tony

 

[Jos Stratford]

Thanks Jos.

Google maps suggests its 120km (2hr) south so might be too far to fit into a strict 4-5 hr slot.

Ah, sorry about that ...

However, presumably your tour might use this road at some stage, so keep your eyes peeled either side of Tamri - the ibis are sometimes on roadside slopes :t:

 

[trw]

If your time is restricted in Essouaria then Diabet would be the best bet.I spent a week here and found no better area for birdwatching.One of the best patches I have been to anywhere in fact.
I met a Dutch birdwatcher who was in the same boat as you:he had a couple of hours off on a tour of Morocco, and made his way there.
The petit taxis line up outside the southern city walls near the start of the beach.They cost peanuts and will drop you off near Diabet,preferably just north of the village.You can make your own way there via the coastal scubland area.
When you return simply walk along the main road back to Essouaria and hail a petit taxi.
Sidi Kaouki is very good but more problematical if you are time-restricted.It is better for Moussiers Redstart than Essouaria.They were very common in the argan wood behind the car park.
The Essoaria Moussiers Redstarts were in the coastal scrub/woodland area north of Diabet adjacent to the main road.
The best way to get to Sidi Kaouki is by the larger shared taxis.They pick up passengers along the way.
You can hope to find one for the return journey or hop on the bus to Essouaria which runs about once every two hours via the airport.
Not sure if your tour includes Ourazazate[most Moroccan tours do].If so there are some great birdwatching sites there.

 

[Simon Wates]

Back in the early 80s (late August) I spent a lovely afternoon around Diabet - lots of Eleonora's Falcons were hawking the dragonflies, Moussier's Redstarts were in the scrublands - I can't remember much else (my notes are far waway) but its an excellent area and so close to Essouaria. Maybe you could even walk there down the beach and maybe return through the scrubby areas just inland?

One thing that stuck in my mind is that in the village of Diabet some of the locals kept enthusing about their claim to fame - that Jimmy Hendrix and Mick Jagger spent quite a bit of time there.

 

[Tony Knight]

If your time is restricted in Essouaria then Diabet would be the best bet.I spent a week here and found no better area for birdwatching.One of the best patches I have been to anywhere in fact.
I met a Dutch birdwatcher who was in the same boat as you:he had a couple of hours off on a tour of Morocco, and made his way there.
The petit taxis line up outside the southern city walls near the start of the beach.They cost peanuts and will drop you off near Diabet,preferably just north of the village.You can make your own way there via the coastal scubland area.
When you return simply walk along the main road back to Essouaria and hail a petit taxi.
Sidi Kaouki is very good but more problematical if you are time-restricted.It is better for Moussiers Redstart than Essouaria.They were very common in the argan wood behind the car park.
The Essoaria Moussiers Redstarts were in the coastal scrub/woodland area north of Diabet adjacent to the main road.
The best way to get to Sidi Kaouki is by the larger shared taxis.They pick up passengers along the way.
You can hope to find one for the return journey or hop on the bus to Essouaria which runs about once every two hours via the airport.
Not sure if your tour includes Ourazazate[most Moroccan tours do].If so there are some great birdwatching sites there.

Thanks - that sounds perfect. I'd goggled Diabet and found the coastal town about 100km north so had discounted your notes above !! Just found Diabat at essasouira which sounds great and maximum birding time given its so close.

I don't think we will be near Ourazazate at any point - its just a quick 6 day tour covering Marrakesh, Atlas Mountains at Taratert and then Essasouira.

Tony

 

[timsg80]

Thanks. You mentioned that Essaouira is good itself - any places in particular ? I'm keen to make sure I see a Moussiers at some point.

Thanks
Tony

Right in the middle of the town at the fishing market is excellent for gulls and Western Reef Egrets can be seen there too. There are Eleonora's Falcons offshore breeding in large numbers on the offshore islets. On a clear day, they can be seen from here as well. It seems very promising for seawatching from there as well. Just south of the town is Oued Ksob- good for terns, waders, Brown-throated Martins, Flamingoes etc. Sidi Kaouki is pretty easy to reach- it took less than half an hour to reach from Essaouira by taxi. The surf club there serves excellent food as well! I'd really strongly recommend visiting this area- besides Moussier's everywhere, there are Thekla Larks, Southern Grey Shrikes, Sard Warblers, Little Owls, Cirl Buntings, Serin and a great number of waders and gulls on the beach. People have seen NBIs there regularly, though we had no such luck.

 

[trw]

Sorry! Diabat!My spelings apaling these dais

As I say it is peerless as a migration hotspot in Spring so if there is any reverse migration in October it should be good[not to mention the resident birds]
Yes it has a link with Jimmy Hendrix and you will get a good view of the castle in the sand made famous as a track by him[and the offshore island where the Eleanora Falcon breed].
Mind you everywhere else around Essouaria claims Jimi Hendrix visited!
Our Riad,numerous hotels, and restaurants, all welcomed Jimi Hendrix apparently.
Winston Churchill used to visit here as well and there are photos of him in the old hotel just outside the city walls.
Apart from Mick Jagger, Orson Wells stayed in Essouaria and there is a road or square named after him.
As the forum poster mentioned the fish harbour area is excellent.
If you walk to the southern edge of the harbour there are some seats overlooking the beach.This was good for Audouins and Slender Bill Gulls as well as terns and waders in the muddy area at the end of the beach.
When I used the petit taxis I asked for the camping site which is now marked as Le Seul Camping on Google Earth although it was called the Parc Provincial when I visited.
Basically look out for the entrance to the campsite on your left along the main road and jump out there.
I then used to walk amongst the scrub and trees on the opposite side of the road to the camping site and head south towards the river estuary.
There was always a lot of birds on the other side of the river below the village of Diabat heading east along the river bank.
If you head west through the scrub north of the river it was also productive.
When you want to return just head back to the road and a petit taxi will pass sooner rather than later.As Simon says you could walk there and back but it would take up a lot of valuable birdwatching time.
Have a great time!

 

[Tony Knight]

Right in the middle of the town at the fishing market is excellent for gulls and Western Reef Egrets can be seen there too. There are Eleonora's Falcons offshore breeding in large numbers on the offshore islets. On a clear day, they can be seen from here as well. It seems very promising for seawatching from there as well. Just south of the town is Oued Ksob- good for terns, waders, Brown-throated Martins, Flamingoes etc. Sidi Kaouki is pretty easy to reach- it took less than half an hour to reach from Essaouira by taxi. The surf club there serves excellent food as well! I'd really strongly recommend visiting this area- besides Moussier's everywhere, there are Thekla Larks, Southern Grey Shrikes, Sard Warblers, Little Owls, Cirl Buntings, Serin and a great number of waders and gulls on the beach. People have seen NBIs there regularly, though we had no such luck.

Great thanks - brilliant info

 

[Tony Knight]

Sorry! Diabat!My spelings apaling these dais

As I say it is peerless as a migration hotspot in Spring so if there is any reverse migration in October it should be good[not to mention the resident birds]
Yes it has a link with Jimmy Hendrix and you will get a good view of the castle in the sand made famous as a track by him[and the offshore island where the Eleanora Falcon breed].
Mind you everywhere else around Essouaria claims Jimi Hendrix visited!
Our Riad,numerous hotels, and restaurants, all welcomed Jimi Hendrix apparently.
Winston Churchill used to visit here as well and there are photos of him in the old hotel just outside the city walls.
Apart from Mick Jagger, Orson Wells stayed in Essouaria and there is a road or square named after him.
As the forum poster mentioned the fish harbour area is excellent.
If you walk to the southern edge of the harbour there are some seats overlooking the beach.This was good for Audouins and Slender Bill Gulls as well as terns and waders in the muddy area at the end of the beach.
When I used the petit taxis I asked for the camping site which is now marked as Le Seul Camping on Google Earth although it was called the Parc Provincial when I visited.
Basically look out for the entrance to the campsite on your left along the main road and jump out there.
I then used to walk amongst the scrub and trees on the opposite side of the road to the camping site and head south towards the river estuary.
There was always a lot of birds on the other side of the river below the village of Diabat heading east along the river bank.
If you head west through the scrub north of the river it was also productive.
When you want to return just head back to the road and a petit taxi will pass sooner rather than later.As Simon says you could walk there and back but it would take up a lot of valuable birdwatching time.
Have a great time!

Thanks for the deatiled info - I'll be sure to visit and note anything i saw on this thread in a couple of weeks

cheers
Tony

 

[Tony Knight]

.......camping site which is now marked as Le Seul Camping on Google Earth although it was called the Parc Provincial when I visited.
Basically look out for the entrance to the campsite on your left along the main road and jump out there.
I then used to walk amongst the scrub and trees on the opposite side of the road to the camping site and head south towards the river estuary.
QUOTE]

Hi I cant find the campsite marked on google earth. Is it just sth of the roundabout, north of the river, in between the 2 roads ?

Tony

 

[trw]

.......camping site which is now marked as Le Seul Camping on Google Earth although it was called the Parc Provincial when I visited.
Basically look out for the entrance to the campsite on your left along the main road and jump out there.
I then used to walk amongst the scrub and trees on the opposite side of the road to the camping site and head south towards the river estuary.
QUOTE]

Hi I cant find the campsite marked on google earth. Is it just sth of the roundabout, north of the river, in between the 2 roads ?

Tony

Just looked on Google earth.
If you start at the main part of the old town where the buildings are dense there is a major road leading south hugging the coast.
There is a major roundabout on this road.
Keep on the road going south past the roundabout.
On my Google Eart there is evidence of new building going on east of the road and south of the already developed buildings.
Le Seul Camping D'Essaouira is marked on my Google Earth just off the road backing on to the new developments.
So it is between the above mentioned roundabout and Diabat.
Looking at Google Earth there is a landmark called Essaouira Lighthouse near there on the RIGHT or WEST of the main road.
This is the sort of area to get out of the taxi.
What I would do is get in the petit taxi at the southern walls of the old town.They line up there or one will come along sooner rather than later.
Most tour coaches will park up near Place Moulay El Hassan which is the impressive square near the harbour,
From there head to Orson Welles Square to the south east of the square.
The southern gate to the walls is to the east of the gardens,You will see the main road south towards Diabat hugging the beach starts and ends here.The petit taxis line up here.If you can't find this area basically head to the beach near the town and walk along the main road south to Diabat.You will find a petit taxi driving along here:just hail one down.
You can't miss the petit taxis.They are the small dingy looking taxis which are all over the place[I think they are blue but could be yellow].The petit taxis do small journeys around the town,the larger shared taxis go on the longer trips.
Ask for Diabat or presque Diabat[near Diabat].
They go fairly slowly down that road.
Look out for the campsite on your LEFT or the lighthouse on your RIGHT or WEST and ask him to stop.
If you miss the two don't worry:carry on a bit until you see a dense shrub/dune area on your RIGHT and get out there.
Start walking through the scrub/dune area SOUTH towards the river near Diabat.
Trouble is things change quickly these days but looking at Google Earth it is much as I remembered it, especially the scrub/dune area on the RIGHT or WEST of the main road.
The petit taxis are very good.I used to pay the equivalent of £1 to go there and they will drop you off wherever you like along the way.
When I used to go that way I just said.'Le Camping presque Diabat' and they knew where I meant, but 'Diabat' or 'Presque Diabat' would do.
If you familiarise yourself with the area with Google Earth[take the little yellow man for a walk],it will all become obvious when you go!

 

[Tony Knight]

Just looked on Google earth.
If you start at the main part of the old town where the buildings are dense there is a major road leading south hugging the coast.
There is a major roundabout on this road.
Keep on the road going south past the roundabout.
On my Google Eart there is evidence of new building going on east of the road and south of the already developed buildings.
Le Seul Camping D'Essaouira is marked on my Google Earth just off the road backing on to the new developments.
So it is between the above mentioned roundabout and Diabat.
Looking at Google Earth there is a landmark called Essaouira Lighthouse near there on the RIGHT or WEST of the main road.
This is the sort of area to get out of the taxi.
What I would do is get in the petit taxi at the southern walls of the old town.They line up there or one will come along sooner rather than later.
Most tour coaches will park up near Place Moulay El Hassan which is the impressive square near the harbour,
From there head to Orson Welles Square to the south east of the square.
The southern gate to the walls is to the east of the gardens,You will see the main road south towards Diabat hugging the beach starts and ends here.The petit taxis line up here.If you can't find this area basically head to the beach near the town and walk along the main road south to Diabat.You will find a petit taxi driving along here:just hail one down.
You can't miss the petit taxis.They are the small dingy looking taxis which are all over the place[I think they are blue but could be yellow].The petit taxis do small journeys around the town,the larger shared taxis go on the longer trips.
Ask for Diabat or presque Diabat[near Diabat].
They go fairly slowly down that road.
Look out for the campsite on your LEFT or the lighthouse on your RIGHT or WEST and ask him to stop.
If you miss the two don't worry:carry on a bit until you see a dense shrub/dune area on your RIGHT and get out there.
Start walking through the scrub/dune area SOUTH towards the river near Diabat.
Trouble is things change quickly these days but looking at Google Earth it is much as I remembered it, especially the scrub/dune area on the RIGHT or WEST of the main road.
The petit taxis are very good.I used to pay the equivalent of £1 to go there and they will drop you off wherever you like along the way.
When I used to go that way I just said.'Le Camping presque Diabat' and they knew where I meant, but 'Diabat' or 'Presque Diabat' would do.
If you familiarise yourself with the area with Google Earth[take the little yellow man for a walk],it will all become obvious when you go!

Brilliant - thanks. I see exactly where you mean. As you say google earth is always out of date so hopefully its not now covered by hotels !!!