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Where premium quality meets exceptional value. ZEISS Conquest HDX.

New Zeiss Victory SF !!!!!! (9 Viewers)

Hi folks,

I have been following this thread with interest for some months and prompted by a £200 off promotion by a UK supplier I ordered a pair of 8 x 42 SF. They arrived last week.

Sad to say they are going back to the supplier for focus issues. I'll be seeking an exchange rather than refund as they are still the binoculars I want.

The problem mine have is this: The focus is very smooth in an anti-clockwise direction, and generally the same clockwise. As others have mentioned, you can feel some friction but it is still very smooth.

The problem seems to be when, or rather after, you have changed direction of rotation of the focusser, particularly from anti-clockwise to clockwise. What happens then is that the focus wheel begins to tighten up and then releases as you turn it clockwise, though not immediately at the point you have changed direction.

I had hoped that this would work itself out with use but it doesn't seem to be doing so.

As a comparison, my 'old' binoculars 8 x 42 FL Victory are much easier in the focus mechanism, even compared to the SF when they are not tightening up.

Onto other aspects - the objective caps are a perfect fit so no issues there. The eye cups are however a bit strange in their operation. I wear glasses so would normally have the eye cups fully retracted. When I extend them, they move very smoothly to the first stop - much more smoothly than my FL's. The travel is about 8mm from the closed position (on the FL's its only about half that to the first stop).

From there you turn that against some quite high resistance and they click into a fully locked position which is about 10mm extended. Turn again outwards and it clicks and releases again extending to around 12mm. Carry on and they click and lock again now at the fully extended position about 13mm. Its the amount of force needed to get past each of the stops which feels a bit odd - it seems at first like you are forcing them to turn with more effort than should be needed. In a nutshell, it doesn't feel like what you would expect from a £2,000 binocular and by comparison the FL feels like a little 'bump' when you pass a lock position. The SF is more of a 'crack'. That said, if there was no issue with the focus I would simply accept that the eye cup 'issue' is just that they are different.

No problem at all with the optical performance and for me they do feel like a good step up from the FL's.

The dilemma now is that the supplier in question has no stock at the moment so I'm not sure how or when I will be able to exchange?
 
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And for Sharpness, here the bad or good news, don't expect stellar resolution like leicas or swaros, the view is more subtle very real like, where to notice this......easy looking at distant letters, traffic signals etc the letters are not as sharp like the other two, you can read it but they are not so defined like on swaros and leicas.



This must be driving potential buyers bonkers. I'm not doubting Globetrotter's points whatsoever. But for me the sharpness of our 10x42 SFs is equal to our 10x42 Swaro SVs. However, when I bought the Swaros last year I also tried a Zeiss Victory HT as my wife and I weren't sure which to buy and we both found that the edges of distant objects were far less sharp with the HT. Hence we came away with the SVs.

Hmmmm.....
 
Yes is sharp but not exaggerates or overly sharp, i mean the end of objets are not sharp agains foreground for example letters on a distant traffic signal you can still reading it but they are not perfectly defined.

More easy, like the letters of on a FULL HD tv agains Normal tv, you can still reading on a normal tv but more difficult.

I think an impression like that should always be investigated more closely. Don't fall into making excuses for an expensive new binocular that you want to love.

Compare the binoculars mounted on a tripod, look at an intricate target, play with the IPD and the diopter adjustment, check the collimation, check each side separately with your dominant/best eye.

If there is a problem it could be nothing more than a slightly off IPD or diopter setting or the binocular unit you bought might be defective in some way.
 
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And for Sharpness, here the bad or good news, don't expect stellar resolution like leicas or swaros, the view is more subtle very real like, where to notice this......easy looking at distant letters, traffic signals etc the letters are not as sharp like the other two, you can read it but they are not so defined like on swaros and leicas.



This must be driving potential buyers bonkers. I'm not doubting Globetrotter's points whatsoever. But for me the sharpness of our 10x42 SFs is equal to our 10x42 Swaro SVs. However, when I bought the Swaros last year I also tried a Zeiss Victory HT as my wife and I weren't sure which to buy and we both found that the edges of distant objects were far less sharp with the HT. Hence we came away with the SVs.

Hmmmm.....

I am completely agree with you Andy regarding HT experience, even more because i was not able to get a completely in focus view at certain distances and of edges of far away objets where not clearly defined and as you mention, focus hunting always was needed trying to find a better view.

So on HT edge of distant objets was blurry, one very good test is to look some distant and high herbs because they are fine and together a perfect test for optical Definition and the final result....... impossible to focus this subject on HT.

The SF is by far better than HT in this issue but for me it doesn,t reach the exquisite level of SV and Leicas.

I am semiprofessional photographer and I use a Leica camera and lenses, i know very well that is quality optics because in photography is very easy to analice on big Computer Screens the results and regarding OPTICAL DEFINITION the SF are behind, not by much but behind.

And i got the best sample of 5 SF before i bought mine, so maybe i have the less faulty unit of 5:h?:
 
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i Forgot to mention one thing, lack of DEFINITION in a very good optical system is a sing of ASTIGMATIC optical system...........

Please a START TEST should be made for SF !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
In a binocular a lack of definition can be caused by a number of things besides astigmatism. A star-test at boosted magnification would be a very good idea if you can do that.
 
No no no Brock, it's such a small detail it can't be a consideration of weight, but rather styling, as noted by Troubadour and others.

If the groves are supposed to hollow as part of the "styling," I personally don't find it aesthetically pleasing, I think the SF would have looked better if they had continued the metal from the bridges down both sides like the Swaro ELs. To me, it looks like there's something missing, particularly when the ELs and SF are paired side by side.

A minor issue though, the SF otherwise sounds like the best birding bin available today, it certainly ticks almost all my "must have" boxes except for one: affordability.

Brock
 
Yes is sharp but not exaggerates or overly sharp, i mean the end of objets are not sharp agains foreground for example letters on a distant traffic signal you can still reading it but they are not perfectly defined.

More easy, like the letters of on a FULL HD tv agains Normal tv, you can still reading on a normal tv but more difficult.
I prefer HD TV.
 
I think an impression like that should always be investigated more closely. Don't fall into making excuses for an expensive new binocular that you want to love.

Compare the binoculars mounted on a tripod, look at an intricate target, play with the IPD and the diopter adjustment, check the collimation, check each side separately with your dominant/best eye.

If there is a problem it could be nothing more than a slightly off IPD or diopter setting or the binocular unit you bought might be defective in some way.
Good point Henry.
 
I am completely agree with you Andy regarding HT experience, even more because i was not able to get a completely in focus view at certain distances and of edges of far away objets where not clearly defined and as you mention, focus hunting always was needed trying to find a better view.

So on HT edge of distant objets was blurry, one very good test is to look some distant and high herbs because they are fine and together a perfect test for optical Definition and the final result....... impossible to focus this subject on HT.

The SF is by far better than HT in this issue but for me it doesn,t reach the exquisite level of SV and Leicas.

I am semiprofessional photographer and I use a Leica camera and lenses, i know very well that is quality optics because in photography is very easy to analice on big Computer Screens the results and regarding OPTICAL DEFINITION the SF are behind, not by much but behind.

And i got the best sample of 5 SF before i bought mine, so maybe i have the less faulty unit of 5:h?:
You sampled all 5 of the other binoculars and yours appeared the best? SLAP! That is the sound of my wallet closing at least till Zeiss get's the bugs worked out of these.
 
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Hi folks,

I have been following this thread with interest for some months and prompted by a £200 off promotion by a UK supplier I ordered a pair of 8 x 42 SF. They arrived last week.

Sad to say they are going back to the supplier for focus issues. I'll be seeking an exchange rather than refund as they are still the binoculars I want.

The problem mine have is this: The focus is very smooth in an anti-clockwise direction, and generally the same clockwise. As others have mentioned, you can feel some friction but it is still very smooth.

The problem seems to be when, or rather after, you have changed direction of rotation of the focusser, particularly from anti-clockwise to clockwise. What happens then is that the focus wheel begins to tighten up and then releases as you turn it clockwise, though not immediately at the point you have changed direction.

I had hoped that this would work itself out with use but it doesn't seem to be doing so.

As a comparison, my 'old' binoculars 8 x 42 FL Victory are much easier in the focus mechanism, even compared to the SF when they are not tightening up.

Onto other aspects - the objective caps are a perfect fit so no issues there. The eye cups are however a bit strange in their operation. I wear glasses so would normally have the eye cups fully retracted. When I extend them, they move very smoothly to the first stop - much more smoothly than my FL's. The travel is about 8mm from the closed position (on the FL's its only about half that to the first stop).

From there you turn that against some quite high resistance and they click into a fully locked position which is about 10mm extended. Turn again outwards and it clicks and releases again extending to around 12mm. Carry on and they click and lock again now at the fully extended position about 13mm. Its the amount of force needed to get past each of the stops which feels a bit odd - it seems at first like you are forcing them to turn with more effort than should be needed. In a nutshell, it doesn't feel like what you would expect from a £2,000 binocular and by comparison the FL feels like a little 'bump' when you pass a lock position. The SF is more of a 'crack'. That said, if there was no issue with the focus I would simply accept that the eye cup 'issue' is just that they are different.

No problem at all with the optical performance and for me they do feel like a good step up from the FL's.

The dilemma now is that the supplier in question has no stock at the moment so I'm not sure how or when I will be able to exchange?
Sounds like some of kind of sticking problem in the focus wheel. Lubrication maybe. Did Zeiss give you any indication what it could be yet? How long is it going to take to get an exchange done?
 
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i Forgot to mention one thing, lack of DEFINITION in a very good optical system is a sing of ASTIGMATIC optical system...........

Please a START TEST should be made for SF !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
if you do have an astigmatism problem in the optics a star test would be the best way to detect it.
 
Hi Globetrotter,

If you do a 'star test' and notice any flaring, turn the binoculars upside down and look through them again. If any flares stay in the same relative positions, it is probably your own eyes. If a flare moves to the opposite side, then it is probably in one or both barrels.

Doug......
 
Hi Globetrotter,

If you do a 'star test' and notice any flaring, turn the binoculars upside down and look through them again. If any flares stay in the same relative positions, it is probably your own eyes. If a flare moves to the opposite side, then it is probably in one or both barrels.

Doug......

OH THANKS !!!!! is a good idea to check both barrels with different eyes.........

And........ZEISS OWNERS....

Kimmo, henry link......i read your comment in CN of New SLC VS FL

DID YOU CHECK ON SF IS THE EXIT PUPIL IS PERFECTLY ROUND ?

Did you check inside if prism system is perfectly center with the optical path or maybe is possible to see prism edge more separated from corner in one barrel than the other one ?

I will post some pictures tomorrow because not only on mine, other samples show this issue.


Lets take a look.
 
Did you check inside if prism system is perfectly center with the optical path or maybe is possible to see prism edge more separated from corner in one barrel than the other one ?

I will post some pictures tomorrow because not only on mine, other samples show this issue.

The interesting question is if that's really an issue. After all, given that in the right barrel you've got the diopter correction there may be differences visible in binoculars with internal focusing.

BTW, you normally look through binoculars from the other end ... o:D

Hermann
 
Today as many years ago everything is desing with Auto CAD computer programs that even allow in direct view in your computer is everything fix and also if works.

Is so difficult for a 160 years old company to check is everything is gonna be ok before launch this or other binoculars........
 
Yes, but nowadays everyone wants short time to market... Quality therefore deviates /priority is to overrun competition in terms of time, then in quality/. Try to negotiate with seller to get replacement, as the best will be for new models to go to shop and choose one pair from maybe 10 pairs delivered /if this can be done of course/
 
GLOBETROTTER,

I don't see anything very alarming in those images. You might try making photos (without flash) through the eyepiece end. Those can sometimes reveal problems with the alignment of the optics as well as unwanted internal reflections.

Allbinos.com includes photos like that in its reviews. I wouldn't get too excited about a little misalignment (what Allbinos calls vignetting of the exit pupil) since virtually every binocular will have a little eccentricity applied to one or both sides in the process of collimation. It begins to matter when there is so much that it causes visible coma in the center of the field.

Photos of slightly out-of-focus star points are the most revealing of optical defects, including coma from misalignment and astigmatism.

Henry
 
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