Regarding Nikon Se (1 Viewer)

CSG said:

Well, once again, I've come to my senses and withdrawn my offer to sell my SE's. Been doing a lot of side by side comparing with my Zeiss Conquest HD 8x32's and have decided that the SE's offer enough of a viewing difference that they are worth keeping. Better edges than the HD's (but that's not really much of a deal to me), warmer image (not better, just different), and that 3D effect. Even had I gotten my best price, the money I have in the SE's and HD's together is less than the 8x32 FL's would cost me.

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CSG,

How would you compare your HT's to your SE's, all things considered?

I haven't really compared them as they are different objective sizes.

CSG said:

Well, once again, I've come to my senses and withdrawn my offer to sell my SE's. Been doing a lot of side by side comparing with my Zeiss Conquest HD 8x32's and have decided that the SE's offer enough of a viewing difference that they are worth keeping. Better edges than the HD's (but that's not really much of a deal to me), warmer image (not better, just different), and that 3D effect. Even had I gotten my best price, the money I have in the SE's and HD's together is less than the 8x32 FL's would cost me.

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That is a smart move, you are now realizing how good the SE is. o
For some it is a good reference standard.

Enjoy in good health.

Jerry

Alexis Powell said:

I don't get it. Why would you need this? Even if one eye is slightly higher or closer to your nose than the other, your total IPD is still a linear distance.

--AP

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AP,

If you have an SE and had eyes that were not equidistant from the center of your nose, you'd get it all right. Right between the eyes.

While my total ID is a linear distance, it's not the same linear distance as the total IPD distance from the center of the SE's exit pupils. With the SE's EPs having spherical aberration of the exit pupil, eye placement is critical. BOTH eyes need to be centered on the exit pupils, but if one eye were farther from the center post than the other, you wouldn't be able to align them BOTH at the center of the exit pupils. You can do only align your eyes with one side or the other.

There is a bit of latitude, though. If I move my left eye off center toward the left edge of the eyecup and keep it perfectly positioned, I can avoid image blackouts.

In addition to my right eye being a few mm farther from the center post (and the bridge of my nose), it's also a few mm deeper set. It's not so freakishly asymmetrical that one would notice the difference like I do on Shannon Doherty, but just enough to cause image blackouts with the SE if my eyes are pressed against the eyecups (I just bought a new pair of SE eyecups, and I"m noticing this more).

Similarly, the Vixen 7x50 Foresta is prone to image blackouts (just ask mooreorless!) with the original eyecups on. The image in my left eye kept blacking out because that eye is a few mm closer to the EP. After I took the original rubber eyecups off their metal frames, which made the diameter of the eyecups uncomfortably large, and dropped old, fold down rubber Swaro eyecups inside the metal housing, I could see the entire FOV w/out image blackouts since it placed my left eye beyond that critical point.

BP

brocknroller said:

AP,

If you have an SE and had eyes that were not equidistant from the center of your nose, you'd get it all right. Right between the eyes.

While my total ID is a linear distance, it's not the same linear distance as the total IPD distance from the center of the SE's exit pupils. With the SE's EPs having spherical aberration of the exit pupil, eye placement is critical. BOTH eyes need to be centered on the exit pupils, but if one eye were farther from the center post than the other, you wouldn't be able to align them BOTH at the center of the exit pupils...

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Brock, thanks for trying to explain but I still don't get it. I have an SE and my eyes/nose aren't perfectly symmetrical, but I'm not sure that's even relevant. Your problem only obtains if you insist on lining up the center post exactly with your nose and/or keeping the binoculars perfectly level with the ground. I say line up the exit pupils with your pupils and let the rest of the bin fall where it may.

Likewise, the second problem (one eye forward of the other) is solved by holding the bins at proper eye-relief in front of each eye, then rotating the eyes slightly to look down the centers of the optical axes. I'm sure many users do this without even realizing it.

--AP