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8-16x40 XL Zoom...One Binocular to Rule Them All? (4 Viewers)

has530

Well-known member
Earlier this year I found a good deal on a clean pair of the Nikon XL zooms. I had always been curious about these as conversations about zoom binoculars generally go "all zoom binos are bad...except the Nikon XLs". I have to say, they are very impressive optically and mechanically. The focus and zoom action are smooth and precise and the image is sublime. So today I set out to compare these to various other models at different magnifications so see if it could replace multiple pairs (like how some use zoom eyepieces to replace multiple fixed length eyepieces for telescopes). All comparisons were done unmounted and braced because I do not have a way to mount the Nikon.

8x - vs. Bushnell Legend M
This is the weakest point for the Nikon Zooms. With a field of only 5.2* at 8x they give severe tunnel vision and at close distances the image circles from each side barely overlap due to the wide spaced objectives. By comparison I measured the Bushnells to be more than 50% wider. However, the Nikons are completely sharp edge-to-edge while the Bushnell have some field curvature. In total the Bushnell still has a wider "pristine" image area but not by much. The Nikon shows a dimmer image (outdated coatings probably more to blame with a yellowish cast compared to the brighter slightly green in the bushnell) but does control veiling glare better with practically none. CA is well controlled in both but the Legend wins with practically none while the Nikon has a bit at the very edge. All in all the Nikon has very nice optics while the modern ED glass and coatings give the legend an edge in brightness and CA control. However the 5.2* FOV is a real non-starter and given the Nikons limited utility at this magnification.

10x - vs. Vortex Viper HD (pre-2018)
Again the FOV of the Nikon is very narrow although a little wider by 10x. The Vipers have an AFOV of around 60* while I measured the Nikon at ~50*. While still obviously narrower than most modern fixed zoom binos the Nikon already feels much less restricted. Again the Nikon controls glare better than it's opponent (even with a bino bandit on the Viper) and is completely sharp edge to edge while the viper rolls off a bit in the last 10%. The Viper still has a marginally wider sweet spot but the difference at this magnification is practically negligible. The Nikon is again dimmer with it's warm cast while the viper is bright and pretty white. In this case the Nikon has better control of CA with still practically none in the middle and a trace at the edge despite being a classic achromat while the viper as ED glass. The Nikon also has a noticeably clearer image giving the classic alpha-like image where it feels as though you are placed in the scene while the viper slightly feels like looking through glass. At this magnification I would say except for the slightly narrow FOV, older coatings, and lack of waterproofing the Nikon is the superior all-around bino at this magnification.

15x - vs. Canon 15x50 IS (IS not activated)
A little cheating because I do not have a 15/16x42 so the Canon have a 10mm aperture advantage. Again, even near their widest the Nikon are narrower than their competition. Both are sharp edge-to-edge but the canon has an AFOV around 65* and the Nikon around 61*. Again, the Nikon has less CA despite the Canon advertising ultra-low dispersion glass (which is only worse when the IS turns on). Both present a yellowish image but the Nikon is yellower and dimmer while the Canon is a little greener and much brighter (but also gathers 56% more light with their larger aperture). Both give a nice clean image and if it weren't for the IS I would likely pick the Nikon for it's lighter weight.

Overall the Nikon's hold their own in image quality against 3 modern pairs of binoculars all advertising ED glass (and dielectric/phase coatings on the roof prisms of the Bushnell and Vortex). However as is the problem with all but a few very new zoom eyepieces they are held back by narrow AFOVs, especially at low magnifications. Anyone who has used a roughly 40-60* zoom eyepiece will know about how it feels. Despite this disadvantage and the outdated coatings (which are in my opinion better than the Nikon E coatings and nearly up to snuff with the Criterion coatings I have seen) they give a really nice image which is practically free from abberations; a remarkable achievement for a 30-year-old zoom binocular. While I wouldn't say they would replce any one binocular at a given magnification they are certainly a jack of all trades master of none type of gear. They are also very well built and a whole lot of fun to use.
 
Really interesting. I've never heard of these before (and I've also always read that zoom binoculars are usually very compromised, if not directly junk, the only one I've tried fell into the latter category).

I'm really curious about these. Do you have any picture comparing the Nikon against the others? (Or any other binocular for that matter). What about the weight? I had a 12x40 (C) series and it felt great in the hands. Is this anywhere near that one?
Thanks for posting!
 
Here they are second from the right along with my Canon 15x50, Meopta Meostar 8x32, Bushnell Legend M 8x42, Zeiss VP 8x25, (zoom XL), and Sears Discoverer 7x50 10° (picture posted in "what binos did you use today" thread)
20230704_125559.jpg
I am headed out birding now but can weigh them when I come back. They feel light and great in the hand but being an all-metal porro prism design they do weigh a little more than a modern roof prism of equivalent aperture. From memory they definately weigh less than my swift sport king 7x35 though so I would say they are light for what they are.
 
Hi has530,

I bought a pair of these about 25 years ago. I agree with almost everything that you said about them except that I measure a smaller AFOV.

I use a method that involves mounting the binocular on a panoramic tripod head graduated in degrees. I place a tiny distant target at one edge of the eyepiece field stop while sighting from the front end of the binocular. Then I rotate the tripod head to move that target to the other side of the field stop and count the number of degrees it took to move the target from one side to the other.

I just repeated that and got a 40º AFOV at 8X, 42º at 10x and 52º at 16x. I don't know why our measurements are so far apart, especially at higher magnifications. Any ideas?

Henry
 
Hi has530,

I bought a pair of these about 25 years ago. I agree with almost everything that you said about them except that I measure a smaller AFOV.

I use a method that involves mounting the binocular on a panoramic tripod head graduated in degrees. I place a tiny distant target at one edge of the eyepiece field stop while sighting from the front end of the binocular. Then I rotate the tripod head to move that target to the other side of the field stop and count the number of degrees it took to move the target from one side to the other.

I just repeated that and got a 40º AFOV at 8X, 42º at 10x and 52º at 16x. I don't know why our measurements are so far apart, especially at higher magnifications. Any ideas?

Henry
My method likely overestimated by a bit. I used a tape measure 15 feet away to measure true field of view and then multiplied by magnification using the simple formula to get afov. My measured FOVs were 5.2° @8x, 5° @10x, and 4.0/4.1° @15x. Using the tangent formula comes out to 40°, 47°, and 56°. Closer to your values but still a little higher. I will say in order to see the whole fov while measuring (binos resting on a bench) I would rock my head back and forth in order to get a good look at the edge without my eye leaving the exit pupil but I don't think this should affect the measurement much. Could also be some difference in magnification setting as there are no clicks stops so I just got close but that also shouldn't make such a big difference. Any other ideas? I suppose I could try to replicate your method and see if I get the same results, how do you mount them on a tripod? The hinge cap doesn't seem to come off.
 
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Hi has530,

I bought a pair of these about 25 years ago. I agree with almost everything that you said about them except that I measure a smaller AFOV.

I use a method that involves mounting the binocular on a panoramic tripod head graduated in degrees. I place a tiny distant target at one edge of the eyepiece field stop while sighting from the front end of the binocular. Then I rotate the tripod head to move that target to the other side of the field stop and count the number of degrees it took to move the target from one side to the other.

I just repeated that and got a 40º AFOV at 8X, 42º at 10x and 52º at 16x. I don't know why our measurements are so far apart, especially at higher magnifications. Any ideas?

Henry
I got them on a tripod today and measured the AFOV using this method and got 41* @ 8x, 47* @ 12x, and 53* @ 16x. Much more in line with what you measured and showing roughly linear increase in AFOV with magnification (glad to see we can make agreeable measurements!). I think the initial discrepancy came from a combination of my use of the simple formula and my method of TFOV measurement (I measured the angle from the objective to the wall about 6 feet away due to space constraints in my apartment but after giving some further thought I think the angle should be measured from the exit pupil and not the objective).
 
I got them on a tripod today and measured the AFOV using this method and got 41* @ 8x, 47* @ 12x, and 53* @ 16x. Much more in line with what you measured and showing roughly linear increase in AFOV with magnification (glad to see we can make agreeable measurements!). I think the initial discrepancy came from a combination of my use of the simple formula and my method of TFOV measurement (I measured the angle from the objective to the wall about 6 feet away due to space constraints in my apartment but after giving some further thought I think the angle should be measured from the exit pupil and not the objective).
If you hold press and hold the Alt key then type 0176 then release Alt you will get a degree symbol. Like this °.
Cool review. Thanks for doing that. What an interesting pair of binoculars. I don't believe I have seen these before.
 
If you hold press and hold the Alt key then type 0176 then release Alt you will get a degree symbol. Like this °.
I used to keep a list of codes like that handy, but then did some programming with AutoHotkey to make such symbols (€, £ etc) more accessible. It's just ridiculous that they aren't already. (Other handy Windows alternatives include looking them up in the horrible Character Map, or engaging the US-International keyboard and pressing say RAlt-colon for °.)
 

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