Binocular issue - self-repair... (1 Viewer)

Hi guys,

I have a pair of Bushnell NatureView Plus 8x42 binoculars which my daughter dropped a couple of years back. Since then when I look through them the focus is out of sync (ie one lens is in focus when the other isn't). Now I've bought a new pair I was going to look at taking these apart and seeing what can be done. Is it easy enough to fix?

Thanks,

Nige

If you change the dioptre setting, can you use it?

htcdude said:

Hi guys,

I have a pair of Bushnell NatureView Plus 8x42 binoculars which my daughter dropped a couple of years back. Since then when I look through them the focus is out of sync (ie one lens is in focus when the other isn't). Now I've bought a new pair I was going to look at taking these apart and seeing what can be done. Is it easy enough to fix?

Thanks,

Nige

Click to expand...

Please consider collimation. If you're going for conditional alignment, the Internet "tips" may suffice. And that may be all you want. If you want clinical collimation, 100% of them ... won't.

Most bino repairs require a few small hand tools and a dose of common sense and mechanical aptitude. 3-axis collimation takes considerably more. Hard to do? No. More to know than most think? Yes.:cat:

Bill

I have a similar situation. My toddler dropped my Leica UV 10x25. Since the drop, I have to set the diopter at the extreme of it's range to get both barrels in focus.

Since the drop, they cause eye strain which is noticeable when pulling them away from the face after use. I think the magnification changed between the barrels, but that's a tough thing to detect for certain.

Any suggestions on repair facilities for something like this? They were purchased on heavy discount without packaging, so I'm not sure Leica would even touch them.

Binastro said:

If you change the dioptre setting, can you use it?

Click to expand...

No I'm afraid this doesn't help in this case ||

WJC said:

Please consider collimation. If you're going for conditional alignment, the Internet "tips" may suffice. And that may be all you want. If you want clinical collimation, 100% of them ... won't.

Most bino repairs require a few small hand tools and a dose of common sense and mechanical aptitude. 3-axis collimation takes considerably more. Hard to do? No. More to know than most think? Yes.:cat:

Bill

Click to expand...

Thanks Bill. I don't really know the first thing about collimation or alignments I'm afraid! I'm very amateur when it comes to the "technical" side of optics. Thanks for giving me something to start with, I'll do a bit of reading up |:d|

Nige

htcdude said:

Thanks Bill. I don't really know the first thing about collimation or alignments I'm afraid! I'm very amateur when it comes to the "technical" side of optics. Thanks for giving me something to start with, I'll do a bit of reading up |:d|

Nige

Click to expand...

"I don't really know the first thing about collimation or alignments I'm afraid!"

DON'T BE AFRAID! You know EXACTLY as much as virtually all those who today are writing about "conditional alignment" while calling it collimation. If the error is small, your spatial accommodation great, and you’ll be the only one using the bino, CoAl may be all you’ll need. However, these paragons of optical metrology are failing to tell people that following their Romper Room advice can cause collimation to be worsened or the instrument to be damaged!

The procedure IS NOT AT ALL HARD TO UNDERSTAND!!! It’s just difficult for those who think they already know all there is to know. :cat:

“The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it. Ignorance may deride it. But in the end ... there it is.” — Winston Churchill

htcdude said:

Thanks Bill. I don't really know the first thing about collimation or alignments I'm afraid! I'm very amateur when it comes to the "technical" side of optics. Thanks for giving me something to start with, I'll do a bit of reading up |:d|

Nige

Click to expand...

"I don't really know the first thing about collimation or alignments I'm afraid!"

DON'T BE AFRAID! You know EXACTLY as much as virtually all those who today are writing about "conditional alignment" while calling it collimation. If the error is small, your spatial accommodation great, and you’ll be the only one using the bino, CoAl may be all you’ll need. However, these paragons of optical metrology are failing to tell people that following their Romper Room advice can cause collimation to be worsened or the instrument to be damaged! Why? They don't know!

The procedure IS NOT AT ALL HARD TO UNDERSTAND!!! It’s just difficult for those who think they already know all there is to know. :cat:

“The truth is incontrovertible. Malice may attack it. Ignorance may deride it. But in the end ... there it is.” — Winston Churchill

Bushnell DIY

htcdude said:

Hi guys,

I have a pair of Bushnell NatureView Plus 8x42 binoculars which my daughter dropped a couple of years back. Since then when I look through them the focus is out of sync (ie one lens is in focus when the other isn't). Now I've bought a new pair I was going to look at taking these apart and seeing what can be done. Is it easy enough to fix?

Thanks,

Nige

Click to expand...

Quite often when a Natureview is dropped one of the front OG assemblies is a little dislodged and the thread are a little crossed.
Try unscrewing one front cone that holds the OG. It might click and screw back correctly. If it made no difference then try the other one.
If still not focusing correctly then one of the prisms is probably dislodged.
Bushnell used a grey 'glue' that sets hard and holds the prisms. If one is dislodged you should be able to see a crack in this grey cement. If you are lucky you may be able to wriggle the prism back into place.
If all this does not work, perhaps you would like to give me a call -internet search for Actionoptics.
I worked in Swindon for over 11 years some time ago. I guess it has changed quite a lot.
Regards Richard

richard866945 said:

Quite often when a Natureview is dropped one of the front OG assemblies is a little dislodged and the thread are a little crossed.
Try unscrewing one front cone that holds the OG. It might click and screw back correctly. If it made no difference then try the other one.
If still not focusing correctly then one of the prisms is probably dislodged.
Bushnell used a grey 'glue' that sets hard and holds the prisms. If one is dislodged you should be able to see a crack in this grey cement. If you are lucky you may be able to wriggle the prism back into place.
If all this does not work, perhaps you would like to give me a call -internet search for Actionoptics.
I worked in Swindon for over 11 years some time ago. I guess it has changed quite a lot.
Regards Richard

Click to expand...

190320

Hi, Richard:

What you seem to be trying to correct is a collimation error caused by an objective bell/housing being knocked out of alignment on a Zeiss style—two-part body, Porro prism—binocular. The Natureview comes in Porro and roof models. All the Porro versions I have seen have armoring throughout, making the repair more difficult.

If that is the problem, before the bell is unscrewed—considering you can get to the bell—both the bell AND the prism housing should be lightly scribed so that when the bell is removed to clean the threads on it and the prism housing, it can be returned to THAT position in hopes no further adjustment is needed. ‘Probable? No. Possible? Yes.

If it’s a roof model the above “fix” is most likely out the window.

I have no idea what htcdude knows about binoculars. I do, however, know that many people not familiar with the nomenclature will describe an error in alignment as relating to a “focusing” issue when, in fact, both sides are focusing as they should but the observer not seeing as he should and he doesn’t know the appropriate terminology.

Finally, with the cost of the bino being between $100-$200, the repair by a QUALIFIED technician, as opposed to a kitchen table tinkerer, would most likely not be cost effective. :cat:

Bill

Hello Bill

I think the Natureview Plus are porro prism models.
The roof prism models are not called PLUS in the UK

Regards Richard

Thank you both for your informative replies! I'll have another look when I get chance next, probably over the weekend. I did unscrew the 2 cones intially but this made no difference. I'll try and get some photos as well which may help.

Richard, a special thanks for your offer to call you

Nige

Same problem with grandson's clumsiness! Bear Grylls "trail" bins are not focusing anymore
I have noticed after removing/unscrewing the eyepiece the inner lens assembly no longer is concentric with the casing - which seems like the threads, as suggested above, are crossed. BUT, how is this lot dismantled? No other items seem visible to unscrew, neither are any tiny screws visible...