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8x vs 10x (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Pabluefox
- Start date
Yup, Pileatus and Ted are spot on with the technique of letting an object float a bit to get a better view rather than clinging on tight to it. The tighter you hold to keep steady, the more shake you will notice.
I have participated in archery for many years. And if you are looking at a sight that is placed over some target, if try to hold tight on that point, rather than letting the "bullseye" or intended target point "float", it is not best for accuracy. Very hard to hold steady and not induce shake. You will not be as accurate.
Different phenomenon, but somewhat similar is to be on a boat and look out and try to have what you are viewing stay rock steady, rather than just letting the scene "float" and move. Well, that is usually a recipe for getting "sea sick".
I have participated in archery for many years. And if you are looking at a sight that is placed over some target, if try to hold tight on that point, rather than letting the "bullseye" or intended target point "float", it is not best for accuracy. Very hard to hold steady and not induce shake. You will not be as accurate.
Different phenomenon, but somewhat similar is to be on a boat and look out and try to have what you are viewing stay rock steady, rather than just letting the scene "float" and move. Well, that is usually a recipe for getting "sea sick".
A2GG
Beth
This is interesting and something I didn't think about...it makes sense. Thanks for the tip guys.
Thank you. Very interesting strata. Since I have done archery since I was a kid and shoot as well, I never thought about looking at it from that perspective. Saw a Kingfisher and 4 buffleheads at the lake yesterday during a snow storm. Was rammy from sitting in the house and turned out to be a good day. I love scouting the little buggers. Thanks all.
Rammy?
Yes, I can see the sense in this, in fact, I have noticed many racehorse trainers when watching their horses gallop, do not hold their binocular, they balance them on the finger tips, I never thought about why, but obviously the same principle.
JabaliHunter
Well-known member
10x can be especially tough to hold steady in the cold...
Theo98
Eurasian Goldfinch
I found it easier to hold my 10x steady after being prescribed beta-blockers
Those + a couple of stiff drinks...but after the binos slam down on the chest ...:cat:... and shaking is re-induced, the third is the charm!! B
:-O 8-P
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WJC
Well-known member
Hi Dennis:
Since so much time and so many posts have elapsed since my original post (#11) about why a 10x bino is more difficult to manufacture than an 8x, I thought I would ask again. I hope you don't mind. :cat:
Cheers,
Bill
I tried a little experiment awhile back. A friend wanted a good used 10x binocular, he knew nothing at all about binoculars, had moved to the country and wanted me to find him one, insisted 10x but had no reason as to why, he wasn't bothered about cosmetics, just that it was good optically. I actually found him a bargain near mint 10x Leica BN. I gave it to him, together with a Zeiss 10x40 T*P, and a Leica 8x32 BN, not cosmetically perfect, but both optically perfect, both of which I was going to sell, and told him him to use them and let me know which one he wanted, he could have any one for the same price, which was actually less than I paid for them. I showed him how to focus them and adjust diopter setting etc. He tried them a while, and eventually picked the 8x32BN, he did not know why, or anything about FOV, brightness, image shake etc, etc, all he knew was when he used them, in his words " the 8x32 gave the best picture" . It was what I expected, and the reason I gave him both 10x and 8x to try.
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WJC
Well-known member
Hi Ben:
Here’s one for those using the larger raptor-in-the-crags binos. When I introduced this at a Celestron convention, you would have thought I invented optical glass:
Using BOTH hands, hold ONLY ONE telescope as far out as possible on the objective bell. Pretend it’s the only one you have; I put it in front of my dominant (left) eye and let the other bell/barrel/telescope rest upon the back of my other (right) wrist. Slight pressure will hold the telescope into your eye socket; remember the other telescope does not exist.
Many observers find this more comfortable, providing better balance, and being considerably more stable. :cat:
Just a thought.
Bill
Here's the proper technique.
http://www.123rf.com/photo_10832751...rs-with-her-leg-looking-at-camera-and-sm.html
WJC
Well-known member
birdrousta
Well-known member
What you may notice is the ratio of objective diameter to magnification, however, aka exit pupil.
A 10 x 30 binocular versus an 8 x 42 would have a lot of difference in size of the exit pupil, at 3 mm versus just north of 5 mm.
Once properly placed, either one might be better overall, but getting the 8x42 placed usably relative to your eye might be easier than with the 10x30. I know it would be a lot easier for me.
This one varies from person to person, but I spent quite a bit of time learning to get my 8x30s placed well relative to my eyes.
A2GG
Beth
Totally my experience as well. I really prefer a larger EP, as it makes aligning the image much easier with eyeglasses. It's just more comfortable and also helps when you need to get the bin up quick to your eyes. Overall, a more pleasant viewing experience with 5mm and higher EP.
Theo98
Eurasian Goldfinch
Lume,
Welcome to BF! :hi:
Just sold my Habicht 8x30 W (2014 edition) porros and still own the Habicht 10x40 W GA. I never took the 8x30's out into the field (too many other options for me), but I personally didn't experience flaring issues under other bright daylight conditions. The pair I obtained from another BF member included Butler Creek objective flip caps. Although I didn't have a situation to use them, I'd imagine the extended tubes of the slip-on caps would have blocked stray light, minimizing any perceived flare issues.
Just the same, glassing with my 10x40's never displayed any flaring issues while using in low light, setting sun conditions. However, others are more sensitive to flaring, I'm not! Both the Habicht 8x30 and 10x40 are Solid, well designed optical instruments that are proclaimed by some members as still rivaling the best that roofs have to offer. To my eyes, I personally prefer optics in the SV's, SLC's, SF's, HT's, UVHD+'s roof arenas, but no denying the value and quality of the long seasoned porro's magic!
Ted
Have you had the opportunity to try both of these binoculars? One of their biggest issues seems to be the small hard eye cups that are on the black bodied version. The eye cups on the green rubber version are bigger and some people like them better.
See this recent thread on that issue:
http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=318770
Bob
birdrousta
Well-known member
one of the adjustments I've made is to add a pair of wire eyeglass retainers to my glasses. I prefer not to wear glasses if in looking at a perched bird or a landscape.
I really like not having to find a pocket, and as a bonus I haven't dropped my glasses leaning over since I got these set up.
the binos I'm using were made with 8 d of overfocus specifically so I could lose my eyeglasses (6.25 d on the left bloody eye, and the right eye almost always is where the adjustment can be made) - but even without glasses, eye placement in a 3.75 mm exit pupil took some learning and some modification to get dialed in.
it turned out that putting field optics wings on was helpful both for glare and for centering the smaller exit pupils. the extra eyecup diameter with them lets me get the oculars to about the right place more easily by feel.