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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Add-on telephoto lenses (1 Viewer)

Martin,

Just a thought as I have recently acquired a Nikon 4500 which I have coupled with the EagleEye. I've been pretty impressed with the results so far especially when the B300 is attached to the front as it magically seems to increase the light entering the camera giving quite fast shutter speeds.
This was taken at just under 30 yards away hand held.

You may be able to pick one up cheap secondhand or on Ebay.
 

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i know i have entered this thread a bit late but, i think i can lay my hands on a b300 converter if anyone is interested send me a pm
 
Ian, did you have just the B-300 on, or do you mean you had the B-300 on the with the Eagle Eye? If it was with the Eagle Eye, then I am very impressed with that quality.
 
Hi Brian,

It was the EagleEye+B300 handheld too !

It's made a big difference using the EE with the Nikon 4500 with it having a small diameter objective lens. I certainly find the results of better quality having the B300 attached rather than the EE on it's own.
The 4500 also allows for loads of image sharpening due to it's 4 MP sensor. Out of the camera the results are very soft indeed.
 
IAN F, that pix looks wicked, looks like I have found the solution, as long as I can get the b300 you suggested, thanks again,

MARTIN J
 
So Ian, what, you were probably in the next county when you took that photo, right? Very impressive. So does the EE have threads on it, or do you have to glue a ring to it? I don't remember, did you couple the B-300 and EE with your 2100? That would have given you and 85ishX zoom, more powerful than a scope.
 
IanF said:
Hi Brian,

It was the EagleEye+B300 handheld too !

I Gues I have to lay off the caffeine to avoid camera shake when hand-held! B :)

IanF said:

It's made a big difference using the EE with the Nikon 4500 with it having a small diameter objective lens. I certainly find the results of better quality having the B300 attached rather than the EE on it's own.
The 4500 also allows for loads of image sharpening due to it's 4 MP sensor. Out of the camera the results are very soft indeed.


So I guess you are saying that teh B-300 actually increases light through the EE lens than with the EE by itself.....?



BTW IanF....that picture is very very nice! :t:
 
Hi Brian,

The Eagle Eye has 37mm threads front and rear, is a 5" long metal cylinder the front half of which can br rotated for focusing as in an SLR and weighs 12oz. I did try coupling the C2100UZ to it but the results were very very soft and vignetting extreme to say the least. The 10x optical zoom is just too much. A touch of digital zoom helped reduce it though. I'll see if I can find the step ring and post a shot using it in the next coulpe of days if we get a bright day.

Nikon_Boy,

That appears to be the result, the B300 actually seems to gather more light into the Eagle Eye enabling far higher exposure speeds. The EE alone loses 2-3 f-stops, but with the B300 also attached it is just maybe 1 f-stop lost.
 
I have just been experimenting with the Zeiss 10X15 monocular mounted to my Nikon 990 and was fairly pleased with it, although it will take some time to get the focusing spot on. I am also looking at the Nikon 5X15 monocular. Does anyone, apart from John Judge who I know uses the setups and whom I have contacted, have any comments on them.
If anyone uses these setups what focusing do you use on the camera? I was using manual set at infinity on the camera with auto focus but what about the lens? I turned it to what I thought was good focus on something about 100 yards away. It was still not spot on focus. As I say, if anyone has used either of the setups please let me know how you are getting on. It will mainly be used for aerial shots
 
Martin Jones said:
It's fine getting the correct equipment but how do you stop the b--gg--s from flying away in the time it takes to set up the equipment??

Nails. Several very small nails can be used to attach the bird's feet to a convenient perch. In the case of larger birds, small nails may not be suficient and a few self-tapping screws will come in handy.

For best results, apply a drop or two of ordinary nail varnish (which can be bought at any beauty shop) before taking your shot, as otherwise the shiny metal nail-heads can catch the light and spoil your picture. Be sure to match the colour of the nail varnish to the colour of the bird's feet: no professional photographer would use yellow nail varnish on a bird with black feet, for example.

For water birds such as ducks, grebes and swans, nails tend to be ineffective as there is seldom a sufficiently firm object into which they can be hammered. This is why the well-equipped nature photographer also carries a length of strong string. Simply take a loop around the bird's feet, measure off an appropriate length of string, and tie the other end to a brick or medium-sized rock. Toss the brick into the water at the desired disance from the camera and take your shot.

Take care to use the correct length of string for the depth of water: too long a string and the bird will often flap up into the air, exposing the string to the camera, which looks ugly. Too short a string results in the bird posing under water, which tends to look rather unnatural.

Be sure not to use the nailing-to-the-perch method with large, intelligent birds like Emus, as it can be rather dangerous. You need very large nails (which are quite expensive) and, as a number of talented young nature photographers have discovered over the years, there is some doubt as to exactly where the hammer winds up getting shoved and by who.
 
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