A bit delayed in finishing this report, apologies
30 June. Mount Gnishik, Noravank & Vardenyats Pass.
Lada Niva came into its own, snaking its way up a rough rocky track to 2200 metres altitude. This is Caspian Snowcock territory, the high meadows above on all sides home to these elusive mountain birds. Eastern Imperial Eagle soared, Red-billed Chough tumbled through the skies, but I gave no time to birds of any kind, this was again a Grade A butterfly location - in contrast to the arid lower slopes, I was now in the midst of lush green and abundant flowers. And mega numbers of butterflies - on the verges either side of the track, hundreds of Black-veined Whites, several dozen Klug’s Tawny Browns, 70 or so Cardinal Fritillaires and at least 30 Freyer’s Fritillaries. No shortage of Hermits too, a minimum of 150 present. Leaving the car and hiking a little higher, very soon the species tally was soaring - among the abundant Hungarian Gliders and Marbled Whites, some of the classier butterflies included Lesser Lattice Browns, Large Tortoiseshell, four Eastern Graylings and several Tawny Rockbrowns.
Mass puddling of butterflies again, hundreds gathering wherever the stream crossed the track - not just 500+ Silver-studded Blues, along with abundant Common Blues and Amanda’s Blues, but also good numbers of Mazarine Blues and Adonis Blues, oodles of Sandy Grizzled Skippers, Oberthur’s Grizzled Skippers and Orbed Red Underwing Skippers. Also added 15 Scarce Swallowtails at one spot, three Ripart’s Anomalous Blues, four Olive Skippers, two Dingy Skippers, one Inky Skipper and a Saadi’s Heath. A local gent tending bees wandered down to say hello, probably was a little bemused to find me on my belly on damp soil aside a stream. Pulling myself away from the puddling spectacles, quite an allure on the flowers too, not least Nettle-tree Butterflies, Southern White Admirals and a Lesser Fiery Copper. With occasional scans of the slopes around for birds et al, one very notable non-butterfly also put in an appearance, albeit very distant - one Brown Bear on a meadow edge on a hillside adjacent. Only the fourth mammal species of the trip, excluding roadkill Hedgehog and Red Fox.
Slowly wandering back to the car, added Blue Spot Hairstreak, Gerhard’s Black Hairstreak and Osiris Blue. By 11 am, butterfly activity was at its peak - I had amassed over 50 species at this point, but the overriding memory is of the absolute sheer numbers of individuals. Nearly all were in pristine fresh condition, I have to assume a major emergence in days prior. Deciding to descend, I made quite a number of additional stops on route down. Overall however, as I left the higher slopes, butterfly numbers declined, only Hermits and Marbled Whites staying in any abundance in the far drier slopes near Chiva village.
With plenty of time at my disposal, next stop was a return to the excellent gorge below Novarank Monastery. Not sure what I expected here beyond the abundance seen a week earlier, but I was not to be disappointed - still most of the species seen previously in very good numbers, including Yellow-banded Skipper et al, but also only my second Meleager’s Blue of the trip and two totally new species for me, several Fidussi’s Blues and an Armenia Orange-banded Hairstreak.
With an absolute feast of butterflies at both Gnishik and Novarank, the question was where to go now?! I had initially debated spending the last few days in the far south near the Iranian border, but having missed quite a few species at Arakelots and Janjur in the north due to rain, that also appealed very much. With the rationale that Armenia was truly impressing me, I decided there and then that a second visit to the country would follow in the not too distant future. On that I could explore the south, so with that I turned and headed north.
Retracing my route taken earlier, a half hour later I was again climbing through the Vardenyats Pass, a stop on the steep hairpins a little below the highest point again very productive - among the selection, two Clouded Apollos, a couple of Pearly Heaths, four Twinspot Fritillaries, two Knapweed Fritillaries and two Marsh Fritillaries. Over the top of the pass, onto the open relatively flat plateau, exactly where I had hit cloud the week before. This day however was still bright and sunny, the vast grassland steppe awash with flowers and seemingly absolutely perfect for butterflies. Parked and walked, Common Rosefinches and Black-headed Yellow Wagtails common, a Rock Sparrow, a few flocks of Rose-coloured Starlings, but a strange absence of butterflies in any real numbers. Perhaps the time of day, now almost 16.00, but the only butterflies relatively common were Small Heaths, Eastern Bath Whites and Queen of Spain Fritillaries. Still, did find one new butterfly for the trip - in its vivid colours, almost flashing bright orange and green as it flew, one male Greek Clouded Yellow. A couple of female types nearby were maybe also of this species.
With that, I continued north, passed Lake Semen and its Armenian Gulls and eventually reached Dilijan, just about the only town in Armenia that I would describe as picturesque. Nice place to stay overnight. After evening tallies and sorting out a few identifications, the species count for this day stood at almost 70, an impressive total.