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BUTTERFLIES OF MOROCCO, JUNE-JULY 2023 (1 Viewer)

22 June. Imlil.

Sunny and unbroken blue skies from dawn, started the day with a hike from Aroumd to Toubkal National Park to the south. A broad valley of shingle banks at the outset, bordered by cherry orchards brimming with ripe fruit, much to the delight of a flock of about 200 Alpine Choughs.

In this initial area, catching the early morning sunshine, good numbers of butterflies already active, Spanish Marbled Whites and a few Moroccan Marbled Whites most prominent, along with Clouded Yellows, Bath Whites, Small Whites and lesser numbers of Moroccan Green-veined Whites. In between, some scarcer species, the best being a couple of Common Tiger Blues, two Moroccan Knapweed Fritillaries and a Large Tortoiseshell.

The plan had been to hike to altitude, the slopes beneath the snow patches on Toubkal the basic destination. However, a checkpoint a couple of kilometres up put an end to that - turned out that guides are compulsory for access into the national park. Not my cup of tea, so descended into the now steep well-vegetated valley and slowly scrambled my way back. Abundant Speckled Woods and Wall Browns all the way, plus more of the species mentioned earlier, along with a Purple-shot Copper, at least five Cleopatras and my first Comma of the trip. Lower, as I re-entered the broader valley, one Scarce Swallowtail and one Moroccan High Brown Fritillary.

Now late morning, with my hike to altitude cancelled, I decided instead to take the narrow road to the east towards Tizi n Tacheddirt. With the road rising to 2500 metres, this gave easy access to the excellent semi-Alpine tops - low abundance of butterflies in absolute terms, but some classic species. On steep slopes dominated by small purple-flowering shrubs, the exquisite Vaucher's Heaths proved fairly common, as did both Spanish and Moroccan Marbled Whites. At one locality, a mini-colony of about eight Black-eyed Blues was a very nice treat, while elsewhere a couple of False Baton Blues and a Common Tiger Blue. In reality, it was a continual trickle of excellent butterflies throughout the afternoon, Giant Grayling and Dark Giant Grayling both seen at separate localities, as well as a Glanville Fritillary, my second Large Tortoiseshell of the day, one Moroccan Small Heath and both Moroccan Meadow Brown and Moroccan Greyling.

The day truly had exceeded my expectations, the final tally reaching 37 species, second highest day total of the trip.
 
23 June. Vallée d'Azzaden & Tizi n Test.

Only 10 km in a straight line from Imlil, but a world away in terms of aridity, the Vallée d'Azzaden was my first destination this day. Patched juniper forest in the lower parts, giving way to pine and open rock higher up, the entire valley initially seemed devoid of butterflies, a damp gulley some ten kilometres up finally producing the first butterflies of the day - a Bath White and several Speckled Woods. Slightly higher again, finding a distinctively hair-raising rocky track to descend to the valley bottom, a lush riverside awaited, a mini oasis of green grassland, bramble patches and scrub. And pretty good it turned out to be - 17 species in all, with African Grass Blues heading the cast, my first of the trip. Five other species of blue too, including a False Baton Blue, about 25 Lang's Short-tailed Blues and two Holly Blues, only my second of the trip.

From the Vallée d'Azzaden, I then headed south towards the 2100 m pass at Tizi n Test. Exceptionally arid on the slow zigzagging climb to the pass, reasonable numbers of Desert Orange Tips the only butterflies. At the actual pass however, a sudden and dramatic transformation - butterflies everywhere! And the vast bulk of them were False Ilex Hairstreaks, many hundred in the space of three or four kilometres. Mostly in gullies, spiky globe thistles were the main attractant, many having ten to twenty of the False Ilex Hairstreaks per flower head! Also present, and sharing the same thistles, three other new species for the trip - one Spotted Adonis Blue, a female Great Sooty Satyr and one Moroccan Dusky Heath. Alongside, yet more to be seen in this mini hotspot, the main other butterflies being a Large Tortoiseshell, three Moroccan Knapweed Fritillaries, two Desert Fritillaries, eight Moroccan Meadow Browns and three Giant Graylings.

A very unexpected and very satisfying experience. Leaving the pass, a few butterflies also along the serpentines of the road snaking down the southern side, not least the reappearance of Desert Orange Tips and, a surprise this late in the season, a Moroccan Orange Tip.

With that, down into the dusty lowlands, no more butterflies. Headed west and spent the night in Tauroudant.
 

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