trancework
Well-known member
They have no markings.
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Can someone help identify these please (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter trancework
- Start date
james holdsworth
Consulting Biologist
Mr. Burns would call them bi-tubal-visionators, we call them binoculars.
I know, no help at all - sorry.
I know, no help at all - sorry.
They look like top-tier French prismatics, 8x23 or 8x24, circa 1908-1918.
The small volcano top suggests more like 8x. Very small top ... maybe more towards 1908-12 or so.
The deep ribbed crater and rippled brass end caps and tall focuser/EP suggest French.
Usually a 5-element, with 2 doublets curve-down to improve contrast, and then a field single.
Sometimes 3-element.
Maybe Colmont or LeMaire.
Mine were rendered in chisel-lightened aluminum, embrittled by chiseling ... no hope
of cleaning and re-alignment with cracking the shell. Awesome EPs, though.
The above pics suggest brass chassis or an un-molested aluminum casting, though.
Chances of a successful cleaning are good, though it's a mid to high level skill test.
The field can be very natural and appealing, if there isn't too much crud.
The small volcano top suggests more like 8x. Very small top ... maybe more towards 1908-12 or so.
The deep ribbed crater and rippled brass end caps and tall focuser/EP suggest French.
Usually a 5-element, with 2 doublets curve-down to improve contrast, and then a field single.
Sometimes 3-element.
Maybe Colmont or LeMaire.
Mine were rendered in chisel-lightened aluminum, embrittled by chiseling ... no hope
of cleaning and re-alignment with cracking the shell. Awesome EPs, though.
The above pics suggest brass chassis or an un-molested aluminum casting, though.
Chances of a successful cleaning are good, though it's a mid to high level skill test.
The field can be very natural and appealing, if there isn't too much crud.
Last edited:
Steve C
Well-known member
Is that some marking barely visible on the top right plate on the last picture? Maybe XL and something else? Roman numeral maybe? Maybe refurbished at some point with markings painted over? French was my first thought, judging only from pictures I have seen. I've never had a French binocular to hand, so I can't say any more.
trancework
Well-known member
I couldn't see the marking, even with a magnifying glass.
I have to say they are very well made. The threads for the lens cap and the lens body itself were very fine.
Here are a few pictures of the right objective prism assembly.
I have to say they are very well made. The threads for the lens cap and the lens body itself were very fine.
Here are a few pictures of the right objective prism assembly.
trancework
Well-known member
There is a white cement holding the prism in place as well as a small single screw spring plate.
trancework
Well-known member
Thanks to you all for the help so far.
This is how the Huet 7x and some other French circa WW I binoculars were built - the prisms were secured by plaster of Paris: https://www.flickr.com/photos/binoc...45-8Gp6MB-chVgB1-7FM72r-7FM4We-9fdLeZ-9dWwuW/ The stuff is very strong but if you ever have to remove it to clean a prism for example, it's a dreadful job. That little clip at the top of the prism doesn't really secure it very much. I think it's there to hold the prism during collimation by prism adjustment and then to keep it in place while the prism is packed with plaster and the plaster dries.
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trancework
Well-known member
Thanks for the info LPT.
I am in dread about moving the cement now. But the prisms are filthy.
And I'm in dread about collimation after wards. Give me an eccentric ring on the objective any day. 😢
It is in collimation now so I will clean and collimate each prism one at a time.
Take one out, clean it, put it back then collimate it to existing set up. Rinse and repeat.
I am in dread about moving the cement now. But the prisms are filthy.
And I'm in dread about collimation after wards. Give me an eccentric ring on the objective any day. 😢
It is in collimation now so I will clean and collimate each prism one at a time.
Take one out, clean it, put it back then collimate it to existing set up. Rinse and repeat.
In the Colmonts, they collimated with inserted prybars,
near as I could figure, and let the glue dry while the
bars were fixtured outside. Horrorshow.
If the chassis has some integrity (not in my case) and if
I tried again, I think I would strart out cleaning the shelves well,
and shimming the prisms a bit first (little tape tabs), to rough the alignment.
Yours are quite probably not so bad, though.
Holding a prism aligned while the glue hardens is
not the kind of trouble I would give to anyone.
Relax and think between small sessions.
People didn't have it all figured out then.
near as I could figure, and let the glue dry while the
bars were fixtured outside. Horrorshow.
If the chassis has some integrity (not in my case) and if
I tried again, I think I would strart out cleaning the shelves well,
and shimming the prisms a bit first (little tape tabs), to rough the alignment.
Yours are quite probably not so bad, though.
Holding a prism aligned while the glue hardens is
not the kind of trouble I would give to anyone.
Relax and think between small sessions.
People didn't have it all figured out then.
trancework
Well-known member
Sound advice as always for everyone at BF Thx.
How the heck do I get rid of the plaster of Paris?
I'm thinking a club hammer and a cold chisel would cause a tiny bit of collateral damage.
Any tips from a Doctor out there who has experience taking off leg casts?
How the heck do I get rid of the plaster of Paris?
I'm thinking a club hammer and a cold chisel would cause a tiny bit of collateral damage.
Any tips from a Doctor out there who has experience taking off leg casts?
I didn't read the plaster -of-paris part.
Good Lord...my nightmare, but in a cast. Ingenious devils.
First thing is to probe it for strength.
Find (or get, at the dollar store) a tiny flat-blade screwdriver
and chip at it. Normal plaster should yield fairly easily,
and carve by hand, but mineral-loaded will be rock-hard.
It could even be Portland Cement, not plaster. Yikes. In that case,
a small hammer and chisel (the screwdriver, or a long nail sanded to a little
chisel at the end) will chip through it...maybe.
Good Lord...my nightmare, but in a cast. Ingenious devils.
First thing is to probe it for strength.
Find (or get, at the dollar store) a tiny flat-blade screwdriver
and chip at it. Normal plaster should yield fairly easily,
and carve by hand, but mineral-loaded will be rock-hard.
It could even be Portland Cement, not plaster. Yikes. In that case,
a small hammer and chisel (the screwdriver, or a long nail sanded to a little
chisel at the end) will chip through it...maybe.
trancework
Well-known member
It was plaster so with some gentle rubbing with a small screwdriver I got the first prism out.
trancework
Well-known member
I want to get at the top prism. Does the eyepiece have a tolerance fit onto the centre post?
Here is what I have not sure how to get the eyepiece of the centre post.
Here is what I have not sure how to get the eyepiece of the centre post.
My guess is that there is either a pin or a screw in the plate attached to the focus wheel shaft which fits into to bottom-most plate of the left side ocular arm. If a pin which is most likely, you should be able with the application of some heat and a little force to pull the arms together with the oculars straight up and off, but if a screw, you would have to remove it first before pulling the assemblies off.
trancework
Well-known member
Do you mean under the ocular arms?
Yes, the side of the ocular arms facing the focus wheel. Are those two reflections or are they two pins/ screws?Do you mean under the ocular arms?
