Eyecup positions - a solution. (1 Viewer)

[LaKu]

I got a bit frustrated with the eyecup-positions available on some Zeiss models. One position would be too far out for a full, immersive experience, the next lower one too far down and result in kidney beans. I've heard others complain about the same issue, across various brands (some brands fit one's face, some don't, apparently).
Soooooo....

I came up with a neat little solution and thought, I'd share it here.
Here's a quick DIY guide, but if you want the 3D model of my version to print yourself, just DM me ^^

I first measured the perfect position by moving the eyecups between the clicks. A quick measurement and I knew the distance between the bino's body and the rim of the eyecup. I then measured the width of the eyecup. Voilà. Took this all to a 3D software (I used Blender) and 3D-printed a little plastic ring that fits around the eyecup. Screw the eyecup tight on top of it and it'll always stay at the PERFECT position


This is the ring off and on the eyecup (grey so it shows better here).

This is how it looks on a SFL x40:
The same ring also works on both SF models (x32 & x42). You can see the critical millimeter more on the ring-side compared to the click-stop-position:



So yeah, enjoy ^^

Happy birding, LaKu

 

[Maljunulo]

This should go in the hints and kinks thread, which got bombed.

OP of that thread did not see fit to start a new one.

 

[LaKu]

Why didn't you make them black? They would match the binocular better.

They were a test-piece made out of some grey filament I had lying around. I thought I'd show these here as they contrast the binocular and are easily visible ^^

 

[Ribbon]

Great. For me the 'eyecup issue' with the Zeiss made the difference between a very good pair of bins and a near perfect one.
Just a few days ago I tried the O-ring solution from this thread and it helped a lot. I'm wearing glasses and the ring helps to fix the maximum FOV/ minimal black out position.
I'm sure the 3d printed ring will do the same trick.

 

[LaKu]

Great. For me the 'eyecup issue' with the Zeiss made the difference between a very good pair of bins and a near perfect one.
Just a few days ago I tried the O-ring solution from this thread and it helped a lot. I'm wearing glasses and the ring helps to fix the maximum FOV/ minimal black out position.
I'm sure the 3d printed ring will do the same trick.

Absolutely. As long as you get that position, every kind of spacer works perfectly
I thought the 3D-prints look rather neat for eyecups that need to stay further out (if you don't print it grey ).

 

[Ignatius]

Elsewhere the (de)merits of orange as a colour for optics was discussed recently.

 

[Patudo]

Very professional looking tailored solution. But will the eyecups not stay in the in-between positions?

 

[LaKu]

Very professional looking tailored solution. But will the eyecups not stay in the in-between positions?

Not really. They are more likely to move than when set to a click-stop.

 

[bobf711]

Very neat.

Did a similar thing with my wife's Nikon EDG bins which simply would not stay at the fully extended position and would creep back in. Not quite as sophisticated a solution, but found a plastic water pipe of the correct diameter and cut a couple of pieces. It was black though, so at least it 'looked the part'.