Nikon P5100 (3 Viewers)

[pinussen]

Try a google for "EXIF" and "mac". There seems to be a few exif viewers out there. Can be interresting to look at and see how the different settings affect the photos.

 

[Icklesal]

Try a google for "EXIF" and "mac". There seems to be a few exif viewers out there. Can be interresting to look at and see how the different settings affect the photos.

Thanks for the advice - I did just what you suggested and I now have an EXIF Viewer telling me all my settings! Of course a lot of it is gobledegook to me at present but it's interesting to see that the poorer images I took have got very high ISO settings.

It appears that my cheeky little Rocky Robin was based on the following info:

Image Orientation: Top, Left-Hand
Horizontal Resolution: 300 dpi
Vertical Resolution: 300 dpi
Image Created: 2008:08:31 21:14:05
Exposure Time: 1818181/100000000 sec
F-Number: f/2.7
Exposure Program: Normal Program
ISO Speed Rating: 64
Exposure Bias: 0 EV
Metering Mode: Pattern
Light Source: Unknown
Flash: No Flash, Auto
Focal Length: 7.50 mm
Color Space Information: sRGB
Image Width: 1600
Image Height: 1200
Rendering: Normal
Exposure Mode: Auto
Scene Capture Type: Standard
Gain Control: Low Gain Up
Contrast: Normal
Sharpness: Normal
Subject Distance Range: Unknown
Color Mode: COLOR
Image Quality: FINE
White Balance: AUTO
Image Sharpening: AUTO
Focus Mode: AF-S
Flash Setting: NORMAL
ISO Selection: AUTO
Image Adjustment: AUTO
Tone Compensation: AUTO
Lens Adapter: OFF
Auto Focus: Center
Saturation: Normal
Noise Reduction: OFF
Image Optimization: NORMAL
Saturation 2: NORMAL

Guess I got lucky because whilst I'm no expert would I be right in thinking that most of my summary seems to indicate that the settings were on AUTO! :t: :-O

 

[pinussen]

I have my ISO settings so it can only use 64 - 200. It automatically sets the lowest possible. If it's too dark it might be needed to set it to 400.

 

[Jaff]

Thought it time to make my contribution. I'd say my setup at present is unique amongst any other digiscopers.
I now have a P5100 connected to a Kowa TSN 600/660 series 20-60x zoom through the use of my trusty Opticron DCC adapter (using the thicker of the two inserts) and the SRB step-down ring as the adapter is a 28mm (designed for the 4500 originally). All of which sits on the back of my TSN 824.

Two huge plus points with this setup, quick and easy to put on/take off and I can shoot lengthways for tall birds like Herons, don't believe a Swing-away can do that (although I've ordered one anyway to have a go). I believe the Opticron DCC adapter could fit on many different eyepieces using a combination of the two insert rings (maybe SRB could even make a custom insert ring!) and it's tightening mechanism. I mean I just tried it on my zoom with the thicker insert (cost me just an extra £9.99, cheaper than a new adapter!) and with a bit of fiddling it fitted perfectly. Also fitted on my now sold 32x with the thinner insert ring. It really is a versatile adapter IMO.

Drawbacks. I can only shoot at either 20x or 60x and the 60x has to be lengthways due to how it is mounted on the eyepiece and the way the zoom works.

Attached pics for a better idea of how it looks. Anyway see what you think, maybe a swing-away adapter isn't always the answer. Unfortunately no amount of fiddling or insert rings allowed it to fit securely on my brothers 884 and 20-60x :-C . Also it will only fit over chunky eyepieces but then again the Infocus DA1 adapter is a 28mm one and is designed to fit over certain zoom eyepieces so there are still alternatives besides this to a swing-away.

Regards all.
Adam

 

[Neil]

Adam,
Looks like a solid setup. Nice work. Neil.

 

[Icklesal]

Well done on your purchase and joining the digiscoping world.
For general viewing and digiscoping many people use a 30x eyepiece to maximise the potential from the camera zoom ( up to 60x total magnification with an 80 mm scope ). The Eye Relief of the zoom eyepiece may not be enough. For digiscoping cameras they like at least 18 mm of Eye Relief in the eyepiece.
You will lose light gathering with higher magnification eyepieces so don't be too ambitious.
Good luck and let's see some of your photos here.
Neil.

I'm getting itchy feet and realising that to get the best out of my Scope/Nikon P5100 I need to purchase another lense, course budget would need to be considered but I noticed on the Nikon website that they talk about two different sets of lenses. A little baffled as to what would be the best to go for?

I really want to be able to zoom in with just the scope as best as I can and retain a good focus when using the P5100 camera where possible.

Sorry to not be more specific really but I'm still trying to get my head around all the technical jargon! :-C

Is anyone actually using any of the lenses and have examples of pics maybe?

 

[Feathered one]

The eyepieces 1,2 and 3 in the second picture I dont think will fit your scope, they are for the Fieldscopes.

Malc

www.digiscoping.lynandmalc.co.uk

 

[Neil]

I really want to be able to zoom in with just the scope as best as I can and retain a good focus when using the P5100 camera where possible.

Sorry to not be more specific really but I'm still trying to get my head around all the technical jargon! :-C

I presume you are not happy with the magnification you are getting and want to get closer. I have a 20x,30x and 45x eyepiece for my Swarovski and I use them all (20x 10% , 30x 70% , 45x 20% ). These give me a range with the P5100 of from 700 - 2000 mm in the Green Macro zone ( I digiscope here about 80% of the time ). If I need longer then I zoom the camera lens and switch to Infinity Mode (manual focusing ) and adjust scope focus. If I need longer still I switch in the Canon A640 or A590IS which have a lens that goes to 140 mm. If I need longer still I can use my Olympus E420 (2x crop) with a 50mm lens on the 45x eyepiece (100 mm x 45 =4500 mm ). If I need longer than this I put the Nikon 105 Macro on the 30x which gives me 6000 mm ( I haven't used this out in the field yet ).
But it's much easier to just get closer and that's what most of the good bird photographers are doing.
If you let us know what you are photographing and the distance we could offer more detailed advice.
Neil.

 

[Icklesal]

Hi all,

I think I'm actually realising that I'm out of my depth on this forum and all this advice is just completely overwhelming and baffling me with science.

As a complete digiscoping novice I guess I'm trying to get too gooder results with not actually knowing an awful lot about photography and maybe that is my problem. I'm thinking that I need to take my scope somewhere local to see if they can actually explain in laymans terms what all the above you describe so well actually means!

I've yet to go out with the scope (still a little nervous actually and largely dependent on decent weather) so basing my results on shots taken in the garden. I've started messing about with settings but always seem to end up going back to Auto if I need to shoot something quick.

It's very frustrating not knowing what people are talking about. I guess I'm a little impatient when it comes to manuals and always skip the boring stuff wanting to get onto practical things.

Anyway I appreciate your advice and patience.

 

[Feathered one]

No don't go away from this forum, I gained all the knowledge I have got from here, I hadn't a clue about Digiscoping, but had been an amateur photographer for some time.

What you need to do is practice in the garden, like you have been doing, and the photos you have posted are pretty good, a lot better than some I have seen on here from beginners.

I don't know the area around Cambridge so can't advise where to go for advice.

Now you have asked the question, someone may help.

Also get used to your scope on it's own, when you get out in the field it will be harder to get good pictures because the birds will be moving around more, you will have less time to get the shot.
If you are housebound because of the weather, read that manual that came with the camera, you need to put effort in to achieve your goal.

Malc
www.digiscoping.lynandmalc.co.uk

 

[Icklesal]

No don't go away from this forum, I gained all the knowledge I have got from here, I hadn't a clue about Digiscoping, but had been an amateur photographer for some time.

Thank you Feathered one. I won't be going away - I like it here! I have actually this morning emailed the shop where I purchased the kit from because they have a shop so it appears that overlooks RSPB Titchwell Marsh where I often go, just not taken the scope there yet.

I know you are right about the Scope actually. I have yet to really use it without the camera and unless I'm prepared to sit in a hide like a lot of dedicated Birdwatchers I feel my efforts will be somewhat iffy!

Although as I write this the rain is yet again pouring but I have been digiscoping all morning and yet again managed to get some pretty OK shots again. Guess I'm beating myself up!

 

[ColinSev]

Icklesal - Key is Perseverance

I think perseverance is the key with digiscoping and take plenty of shots, I think there is nothing wrong with your shot icklesal - sharpness can be affected by many things, the commonest being movement of the camera either by wind or by pressing the shutter down, over longer distances mirages affect the clarity. I am now getting greater success than I ever did - and its by reading tips on this forum and getting out there and digiscoping more unusual stuff - don`t be shy about using it - most people are stunned by the gear and the results.
Everyone gets shots they are not totally happy with but every now and again there is a stunner!
A couple of my recent attempts.
Any feed back on the the pics is always welcome

Cheers
Colin

 

[Icklesal]

I think perseverance is the key with digiscoping and take plenty of shots, I think there is nothing wrong with your shot icklesal - sharpness can be affected by many things, the commonest being movement of the camera either by wind or by pressing the shutter down, over longer distances mirages affect the clarity. I am now getting greater success than I ever did - and its by reading tips on this forum and getting out there and digiscoping more unusual stuff - don`t be shy about using it - most people are stunned by the gear and the results.
Everyone gets shots they are not totally happy with but every now and again there is a stunner!
A couple of my recent attempts.
Any feed back on the the pics is always welcome

Cheers
Colin

Hi ColinSev. Thanks for the encouragement. Well I've been studying my efforts a little more tonight with the help of the EXIF viewer and on comparing my results realising what the camera is liking better. I'm starting to get my head around the fact that F/2.7 will seemingly be better than F/4.4 and that the ISO gets far better results around 64 - 100 than it would at 200-400. Sounds pretty basic to note to anyone understanding photography but guess we all have to start somewhere.

Started to read the manual a little and actually taking note what works better with what.

I love your Spotted Flycatcher and Red Breasted Flycatcher! It would be nice to see more and well I can only hope you have a Nikon P5100 :-O

Here's some of my efforts today. The Great Tit is bar far proving to be the most elusive! As for the Robin, he can't get enough of the lens!

 

[ColinSev]

P5100

Icklesal - yeah I have the nikon p5100 and is attached to the swarovski 80 HD scope with 20-60 zoom eyepiece - a set up which I have had now for about 6 months. I like the camera - only issue I have with it really is the 3 second timer needs setting each time you take a shot. But am happy with the results that I am getting, the secret is to get within 40 yards of the bird, and the set up will perform excellently. But I have record shots up to 160 yards away. I would not have been able to do this with just a camera set up for the price.

 

[Neil]

I got my digiscoping gear out again today and gave the P5100 a good workout. I had forgotten how much I like it's Auto Focus . A bit of haze about so anything more than 30 metres was a stretch. It was nice to see the moulting pond heron. Neil.

Hong Kong Wetland Park,
Hong Kong,
China.
September 2008

Nikon P5100 plus Swarovski STS80HD scope and Sw 30x eyepiece and DCA adapter

 

[Paul Jarvis]

Very nice sharp and clean images neil.

 

[Icklesal]

I got my digiscoping gear out again today and gave the P5100 a good workout. I had forgotten how much I like it's Auto Focus . A bit of haze about so anything more than 30 metres was a stretch. It was nice to see the moulting pond heron. Neil.

Hong Kong Wetland Park,
Hong Kong,
China.
September 2008

Nikon P5100 plus Swarovski STS80HD scope and Sw 30x eyepiece and DCA adapter

Beautiful Neil...Certainly gives my little Robin a run for it's money. :-O

It's good to see the results others are getting though because that way I can compare settings. Although I think the Swarovski Scopes will always have that edge to them. :king:

 

[Lawts]

One thing I'm really struggling with is focusing on the subject when something else (grass, or a twig etc.) is in front.

Even if I go to spot and aim the spot at the subject, the grey focus area diverts off to somewhere else, usually the nearest thing.

How can I avoid this?

Also, one peculiar thing in trying to ensure a sharp image, is I use the digital zoom to show the bird clearer, then drop down to optical. However, this usually results in the red out of focus warning more so than if I'd just gaged it myself in optical to start with.

 

[pinussen]

You mean the focusing rectangle jumps off center and focuses on something you don't want? There is a focus setting so it will just stay in the center, not sure of the name of the setting though.

 

[Icklesal]

You mean the focusing rectangle jumps off center and focuses on something you don't want? There is a focus setting so it will just stay in the center, not sure of the name of the setting though.

I'm no expert as already established but would it be the AF Area Mode which gives you settings like Face Priority / Auto / Manual?

Then you have the Single AF Focuses when shutter-release button is pressed halfway and locks at this position when shooting or at Full Time AF where camera focuses continually until focus is aquired and locked! :t:

From the advice I've been told on here it's always a good tip to try and focus on the legs of a bird. I've unsuccessfully tried head shots and they are always blurred and out of focus. Course if all of that is incorrect I blame it on my manuals! :-O