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Technical description of this behaviour of my Swarovski 8x56? (1 Viewer)

Northman

Well-known member
I was wondering what is the technical description of this I am experincing with my Swarovski 8x56 SLC.

I usually use these with the eyetubes ( I cant for the life of me remember the correct english Word for this right now) at setting 2 out of 3.

If I screw them in to lowest setting and just place my eyes in front of lenses, the image just seems to become 10-20% larger. No Black rings around view. Just HUGE views..

I tried this at a shop two days ago with NL Pure 8x32, 10x32, 8x42, 12x42 and EL 8,5x42, Zeiss 10x42 SFL.

And I could not replicate it with these.. and not even with my other binoculars.


Now the 8x56 has large occular lenses and generous eye relief.. but this has me considering getting a bipod adapter for it and just hovering over occular lenses to get that (seemingly) larger and better view.

Its almost as binocular vanishes, and there is just a large circular magnification.


Or is it just psychological?


.
 
This happens (only) when the exit pupil of the binocular is placed exactly at the pupil of your eye.

(my guess)

Addendum: After reading post #4, I may be confused as to what is being described here.
 
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I was wondering what is the technical description of this I am experincing with my Swarovski 8x56 SLC.

I usually use these with the eyetubes ( I cant for the life of me remember the correct english Word for this right now) at setting 2 out of 3.

If I screw them in to lowest setting and just place my eyes in front of lenses, the image just seems to become 10-20% larger. No Black rings around view. Just HUGE views..

I tried this at a shop two days ago with NL Pure 8x32, 10x32, 8x42, 12x42 and EL 8,5x42, Zeiss 10x42 SFL.

And I could not replicate it with these.. and not even with my other binoculars.


Now the 8x56 has large occular lenses and generous eye relief.. but this has me considering getting a bipod adapter for it and just hovering over occular lenses to get that (seemingly) larger and better view.

Its almost as binocular vanishes, and there is just a large circular magnification.


Or is it just psychological?


.
A lot of people use their binocular in that way. By just closing the eye cups all the way in and hovering your eyes over the oculars, you get a huge FOV because you are almost looking beyond the field stop of the binocular. Works good once you know how to do it.
 
I tried this at a shop two days ago with NL Pure 8x32, 10x32, 8x42, 12x42 and EL 8,5x42, Zeiss 10x42 SFL.
And I could not replicate it with these.. and not even with my other binoculars.
.
I am surprised by this remark because the NL's, used in this way, with their crazy FOV are spectacular !!
( Personally I use a monopod ).

ezgif.com-resize.gif
 
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?
 
I am surprised by this remark because the NL's, used in this way, with their crazy FOV are spectacular !!
( Personally I use a monopod ).

View attachment 1523930

Strange..

I tried with all the NL Pures, and could not replicate it. Might have to take another trip..

But its the only binocular I have had this happen with.. though I have not tried removing or bending down rubber eye protection on others.

With the 8x56 it was just an instant ‘’sphere’’ of magnified view with larger AFOV.


Other binoculars I own:
Nikon 8x30, 7x50, 10x70, 18x70
Fujinon 7x50, 10x50
Kowa 32x82
Zeiss 7x42
Pentax 6,5x21

And have owned
Zeiss 15x56
Swarovski 15x56
Meopta 8x42
Canon 10x42 IS
++++
 
Yes, it's strange... all the more so, anecdotally, since Swrovski did all NL's promotion especially on it... sight without limits, without edges, etc etc.
NLs Eyecups at lowest settings and it's IMAX view !!
 
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I was wondering what is the technical description of this I am experincing with my Swarovski 8x56 SLC.

I usually use these with the eyetubes ( I cant for the life of me remember the correct english Word for this right now) at setting 2 out of 3.

If I screw them in to lowest setting and just place my eyes in front of lenses, the image just seems to become 10-20% larger. No Black rings around view. Just HUGE views..

I tried this at a shop two days ago with NL Pure 8x32, 10x32, 8x42, 12x42 and EL 8,5x42, Zeiss 10x42 SFL.

And I could not replicate it with these.. and not even with my other binoculars.


Now the 8x56 has large occular lenses and generous eye relief.. but this has me considering getting a bipod adapter for it and just hovering over occular lenses to get that (seemingly) larger and better view.

Its almost as binocular vanishes, and there is just a large circular magnification.


Or is it just psychological?


.
For many binoculars when you get your eyes too close to the eye lenses you are likely to experience blackouts
(aka kidney beaning). That's the case with some of the binos mentioned in your post. The SLC 56mm appears to have an excellent so called "eye box" (a generous range of ER) and of course the closer you can get to the oculars without getting blackouts, the less glare you will see, and also the field stop rings disappear and the view opens up.
 
Hi,

first of all, what you describe is the so called spacewalk effect, when the apparent field of view aka afov of the eyepiece is larger than the field of view of your eye (around 80 deg for most people)... the edge of the field vanishes (unless you move your eyes).

Very cool for astro (there are ultra-wide eyepieces available with up to 120 deg afov even w/o getting very close), even useful at times, especially with dobsonians or other scopes w/o an equatorial mount, so you can keep your object in view a few seconds longer by just moving your eyes... before you inevitably have to push the scope anyways.
Less useful for (but still cool) for terrestial with bins as you can easily just move a bit, but some people tend to feel nausea when panning the scope/bins without seeing the edge of field...

As to whether you can get this effect with a certain eyepiece depends on its apparent field of view and the distortion profile chosen by the designer. On some EPs your eye will literally hit the eyelens before this happens, on others you will see nasty aberrations when getting too close.

There is an effect called spherical aberration of the exit pupil vulgo kidneybeaning, which limits how close (or farther away) you can get to/from the eyelens of certain eyepieces. It usually occurs for modern wide field EPs and shows as dark areas in the field of view, either ellipsoid in the center or crescents closer to the edges. See the last paragraph of this page for an in depth explanation (warning - does contain maths - plenty of it):


Joachim
 
I was wondering what is the technical description of this I am experincing with my Swarovski 8x56 SLC.

I usually use these with the eyetubes ( I cant for the life of me remember the correct english Word for this right now) at setting 2 out of 3.

If I screw them in to lowest setting and just place my eyes in front of lenses, the image just seems to become 10-20% larger. No Black rings around view. Just HUGE views..

I tried this at a shop two days ago with NL Pure 8x32, 10x32, 8x42, 12x42 and EL 8,5x42, Zeiss 10x42 SFL.

And I could not replicate it with these.. and not even with my other binoculars.


Now the 8x56 has large occular lenses and generous eye relief.. but this has me considering getting a bipod adapter for it and just hovering over occular lenses to get that (seemingly) larger and better view.

Its almost as binocular vanishes, and there is just a large circular magnification.


Or is it just psychological?


.
I doubt the fov is changing in reality- the field stops won't have moved.

However as a fellow owner of the slc 8x56 I am familiar with the effect you describe.

In the slc the eye relief is huge- one of the longest of any binocular I've tried. It gives a magical effect I've previously described as being like a portal into a magnified world floating in thin air. It's especially apparent in the slc with it's bright and well corrected field - just don't go looking for pin cushion distortion as it's there in some quantity to reduce the "rolling ball" effect.

As a fickle beast though mines actually for sale at the moment on the auction site that dare not speak it's name as I want to get a couple of other bino's to compare long term and £ doesn't grow on trees round here!

Will
 
Eye distance (ie. how close or far the binocular is placed from your eyes) can make a very significant difference in the quality of the view you get. That's why most modern binoculars have adjustable eyecups. It isn't enough (at least in my own experience) to rely on the main click stops - you should fiddle around with the intermediate positions until the eyecups are at the perfect height that delivers the best view. This may take a little time, but is very worthwhile. It sounds as though the original poster might find it worth trying the eyecups of his SLC at the first click stop or a little further in.
 
When I switched from my Swarovski EL SV 10X42 to a Zeiss SF 8X32, I had all kinds of frustrating problems with kidney beans, blackouts, etc.

Then I discovered that all I had to do was not jam them so far into my eye sockets, and all the hassles went away.

Such things can be important, or even critical to whether or not a glass “fits” you, and maybe you just need to tinker a bit with how you use it.
 
Then I discovered that all I had to do was not jam them so far into my eye sockets, and all the hassles went away.

I've found that very important with my old porros which don't have adjustable eyecups. The distance at which you hold them from your eyes can make a real difference in the view you get, its comfort etc. It definitely takes practice and experimentation to "learn how to look through" some binoculars.
 
When I switched from my Swarovski EL SV 10X42 to a Zeiss SF 8X32, I had all kinds of frustrating problems with kidney beans, blackouts, etc.

Then I discovered that all I had to do was not jam them so far into my eye sockets, and all the hassles went away.
You can still jam them into your eye sockets, you just have to unscrew the eyecups a little to make them longer.
 
To get that spectacular limitless view you don't need to have a tripod with NL Pures. You can simply do this trick easily and conveniently with the Forehead Rest. It works with my NL 8x42.
 
Not if I already have them on the last stop.

I’m not going run them out on the threads.
yes, you go to the last stop and unscrew another rotation. that's the only way I can use them, unfortunately, but it works great. I put a couple rubber o-rings on the eyecup barrel to hold them in place. A bit of blue tape to mark each one and let me know if it moves.
 

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