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Zeiss BGAT 10x40 (1 Viewer)

Petrus82

Well-known member
I have always liked these binoculars. Are they still decent in this day and age? What is the eye relief like for spectacle wearers? Is there a huge difference between the phase coated and the Non-phase coated?

Many thanks for helping me decide if I should buy this legend or not.
 
I have owned and used a pairfor 35 years Mine are not the ones with the last, latest coating... forgot T star, P star, think mine are the former - T star. I've never looked through the added coating version, but was told by friends at Zeiss, it was a decent upgrade thing. They are lovely. Ive enjoyed owning them. Will hold on to them as a backup for friends. They are no where near as good as my 2 year old Swaro Els. I might feel differently if i was a bino collector. I am not
 
I have owned and used a pairfor 35 years Mine are not the ones with the last, latest coating... forgot T star, P star, think mine are the former - T star. I've never looked through the added coating version, but was told by friends at Zeiss, it was a decent upgrade thing. They are lovely. Ive enjoyed owning them. Will hold on to them as a backup for friends. They are no where near as good as my 2 year old Swaro Els. I might feel differently if i was a bino collector. I am not
My experience of these is the same as yours Tom. Had a pair as my only binos for 26 years and they only had the T* coating not the P* phase coating. And in another coincidence I swapped them for a pair of the early Swarovski EL 8.5x42s which were phase coated and clearly superior.

In answer to the OP's question about eye relief, I used mine while wearing spectacles and had no problems at all.

Lee
 
For general interest . . .

The 10x40 Dialyt was introduced in 1968 and offered until 2000, when the original Victory (pre-FL) 10x40 was introduced.
It's the same design as the earlier 8x30 Dialyt, but with a longer objective body and a larger diameter lens pair.

For more technical detail, primarily about the 8x30, see: Optical design of 1980s Dialyt 8x30
And also see Arek’s discussion of the 10x40 at: History of Zeiss 10x40 binoculars– from the beginning of the twentieth century to contemporary times - Historical 10x40 and 10x42 models - AllBinos.com


John
 
Thank you. I love the look of Them and as long as they are still decent I’d love to own a pair. There’s a lovely condition non-phase corrected pair for £349 and a phase corrected pair in poorer condition for the same price rice. Any advice on which one to go for?
 
Thank you. I love the look of Them and as long as they are still decent I’d love to own a pair. There’s a lovely condition non-phase corrected pair for £349 and a phase corrected pair in poorer condition for the same price rice. Any advice on which one to go for?
Anyone?
 
Thanks. Would you go for the battered pair with PC or the good condition without?
I would have some patience while looking. The preferred model is the P*T*, and they do come up for sale
quite often. Get one that is in nice shape, or you may regret your decision.
These are a very nice binocular even compared to today's choices. The nice slender tubes make for great
handling.
Good luck in your search.
Jerry
 
My experience of these is the same as yours Tom. Had a pair as my only binos for 26 years and they only had the T* coating not the P* phase coating. And in another coincidence I swapped them for a pair of the early Swarovski EL 8.5x42s which were phase coated and clearly superior.

In answer to the OP's question about eye relief, I used mine while wearing spectacles and had no problems at all.

Lee
Hi Lee,
I'm curious as whether you are nearsighted.
Ed
 
Thanks. Would you go for the battered pair with PC or the good condition without
My preference would be for the T*P* but I would want to make sure the lenses were in good condition (no damage on the outside, no fungus inside) and that the focus wheel was working properly. In addition I would check the condition of the rubber eyecups. I don't know if replacements are obtainable so would investigate this.

Lee
 
My preference would be for the T*P* but I would want to make sure the lenses were in good condition (no damage on the outside, no fungus inside) and that the focus wheel was working properly. In addition I would check the condition of the rubber eyecups. I don't know if replacements are obtainable so would investigate this.

Lee
I know a bit more about the condition of the phase corrected pair. They have a number of scratches on the eyepieces and objective lenses, which, allegedly, don’t impact on the view.

I can’t decide if I should go for these or the far better condition 1986 non phase coated pair.
 
I know a bit more about the condition of the phase corrected pair. They have a number of scratches on the eyepieces and objective lenses, which, allegedly, don’t impact on the view.

I can’t decide if I should go for these or the far better condition 1986 non phase coated pair.
I would pass on both, as I mentioned, don't be in a rush. Don't buy anything with scratches at all. Scratches on the ocular
lenses do impact the view. They both lessen the value. I am not sure what country you are from, you may want to include
that on your forum name. Most active users do that. Be proud of where you are from. I have 2 late model 10x40 BTP's
that are both late model, and in great condition.
Jerry
 
I would pass on both, as I mentioned, don't be in a rush. Don't buy anything with scratches at all. Scratches on the ocular
lenses do impact the view. They both lessen the value. I am not sure what country you are from, you may want to include
that on your forum name. Most active users do that. Be proud of where you are from. I have 2 late model 10x40 BTP's
that are both late model, and in great condition.
Jerry
I’m in Scotland
 
I know a bit more about the condition of the phase corrected pair. They have a number of scratches on the eyepieces and objective lenses, which, allegedly, don’t impact on the view.

I can’t decide if I should go for these or the far better condition 1986 non phase coated pair.
I would definitely avoid the one with scratches for the reasons mentioned by Jerry.

Lee
 
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