DSLR for digiscoping (1 Viewer)

Is it possible to attach a quality DSLR (Canon or Nikon) to a top-end (Swarovski ATS80HD) 'scope?

I am currently using a Nikon CP4500 attached via the Swarovski DCA but am disappointed with the results (will explain more fully in another post). I am looking at alternative cameras (the Contax U4R looked good, but seems to have disappeared off the radar) and I recently met a guy in the field who, after I found him a Lesser Yellowlegs, whipped a pro-looking camera from his rucksack with 20x eyepiece already attached and substituted this for the zoom eyepiece on his scope. He showed me the shots he had taken on the LCD display, which looked very good, but then disappeared before I could interrogate him further!

I think his camera was a Canon and it appeared to be attached to the 20x eyepiece (not sure of the make of 'scope but think it might have been Zeiss or Leica) by a "proper" adapter.

Any info welcome at this stage.

Some members have experimented with coupling a DSLR to a scope with varying degrees of success. Some good results have been obtained but some not so good.

Best technique seems to be to mount the camera with a 50mm prime lens using something like the Swaro DCA adapter which means you can use it with an eyepiece. You still have no camera zoom though which obviously is normally used at 2x or 3x. With a DSLR it's more or less 1x though the 50mm lens adds some magnification - but it's fixed so there's no framing.

An alternative method is to use a DSLR photo adapter but that means no eyepiece and so less magnification and a very dark image.

On the face of it the Canon 350D looks good to use because of it's smaller lighter size but overall personally I think a compact digital camera is better for digiscoping. The Canon A95 / Olympus C7070 and a few others seem to be the main performers nowadays.

The Contax cameras have been discontinued.

Colin Key said:

Is it possible to attach a quality DSLR (Canon or Nikon) to a top-end (Swarovski ATS80HD) 'scope?

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Hi Colin,

Sorry to hear that you are disappointed with the Swaro-CP4500
-combo. It certainly is possible to attach a DSLR to the ATS80HD and that would probably make a more responsive, better focusing, higher-resolution setup, but it wouldn't necessarily take any better pictures. The problem is the larger sensor of the DSLR, which means that exposure times often become too long for high-power photography. On the other hand, the large sensors usually tolerate much higher ISO values.

If you are interested in trying the DSLR, I would recommend using a "flat" 45 mm prime lens. The Swaro DCA accepts 52 mm filter threads, which may be directly compatible with the lens. The scope with the 20x eyepiece that you mentioned was probably a Leica (Zeiss does not have one) and it is slightly better than the Swaro 20xSW in that it has some millimeters more eye-relief than the 20xSW, making it less vignetting-prone. The Swaro's 30xSW is also a little better in this respect - and has an apparent field-of-view that should cover the fov of the 45 mm lens.

I don't know about your expectations on digiscoping, but IMO it is a marvellous add-on to birdwatching with a spotting scope - not necessarily the best tool for serious nature photography. As Ian mentioned, there are some new compact digital cameras, which focus faster and more accurately than the good old CP4500, but I don't think the difference would open new horizons.

Best regards,

Ilkka

Hi Ian & Ilkka,

Thanks for the advice. I am seriously considering spending mega-bucks on a DSLR pro body and decent lens (500mm or more) but would have liked to be able to attach the camera to my scope for higher magnification. I was very impressed with the setup used by the guy I referred to in my initial post and the speed with which he put the camera into position.

I have very mixed feelings about the CP4500 after using it for over two years. I began with an Eagle Eye Optics adapter and Nikon Remote, both of which were less than perfect (an understatement in the case of the Nikon Remote - they should be shot for selling that for almost £100). I bought the Swarovski DCB but the unit was defective (have to buy everything on the net via mail order here so no chance to "road test") and in any case I found it too cumbersome to have permanently attached to the 'scope. The Swarovski DCA is much better; solid and well made - I keep one part attached to the camera and the other to the 'scope and simply slide them together when needed. I am now also using an Eagle Eye cable release bracket which is better (more responsive) than the Nikon but still not a masterpiece of engineering.

My problem is in getting shots in sharp focus. I have spent much time shooting static, inanimate objects at various distances but find it is still a matter of trial and error. I have experimented with all the recommended camera settings (including those given by Andy Bright) but, at the end of the day, my best bird shots have been taken without adapter or cable release and with the camera on programmed "Sports" mode hand-held against the 'scope eyepiece. After speaking to lots of digiscopers in the field with similar kit it is clear that I am not alone in experiencing these problems.

I intend going into this in more detail in a separate thread when I have collected and organised all relevant facts.

Ian F, I use a 23x eyepiece with the 350d and photo adapter. hb

I might as well add my experiences ... I have the Swarovski ATS80HD with DCA. I also have a Canon 20D which I do use now and then on the scope. The Canon 50mm f/1.8 lens has a 52mm front thread which matches perfectly with one of the DCA's connector plates. But, my camera of choice remains the Nikon CP5000.

The Canon can take great photos on the scope ... but ... it is a pain to use. No auto focus (you focus the scope while looking in the camera's rather small viewfinder). The exposure can be unpredictable to the point that I often set it to full manual. No turn-to-every-position preview screen - you have to look in the camera's viewfinder. Also the weight of the 20D hanging off the back of a scope is an issue (that can be compensated for). But, when you push that shutter trigger - the picture is taken - right that instant - no delay. And if you want 5 shots in 2 seconds ... no problem! The quality of the photos when using the 20D can be great.

Which camera to use depends in large on your shooting situation - if you are in a hide and the birds are in a fixed area (such as the far shore of a pond) then the 20D may work fine. But if the birds are just out there flitting about and you have to grab a quick shot - the point-and-shoot camera on the scope will win out every time.

BTW ... you're right about the Nikon remote - an absolute piece of expensive junk!

You might find this info useful, Colin. The link jumps down on the page, but you can scroll up and read as much as will help you.

http://www.opticsplanet.net/swarovski-digiscoping.html#s3-2

OBXGuide (Fred)
OuterBanksGuidebook.com & NCBirds.com

You mentioned that your best shots with the 4500 have been when hand holding - have you tried using the DCA but not the cable release. I've found that cable releases that push the button (rather than electronic ones) often cause more camera shake than just pushing it yourself. My best digiscoping results have come using an adapter to attach the camera to the scope and squeezing the camera - I have my index finger on the shutter release and my thumb below and rather than pushing down I squeeze my finger and thumb together. For me this has eliminated camera shake more effectively than using a cable release.

If you can afford a pro dslr and long lens I think it's well worth it, much quicker and easier than digiscoping. If you buy a Canon 1Ds mk2 with either the 500 f4 or the 600 f4 you still get auto focus with a 2x tc.

postcardcv said:

My best digiscoping results have come using an adapter to attach the camera to the scope and squeezing the camera - I have my index finger on the shutter release and my thumb below and rather than pushing down I squeeze my finger and thumb together. For me this has eliminated camera shake more effectively than using a cable release.

Click to expand...

Peter

I think that for general Digiscoping, the manual cable release IMHO is the most effective way to take pictures in relation to light conditions for the majority of people all year round, i agree that you can use your method, but only if the light is good and you have a really steady hand, not all of us are blessed with a steady hand! and the timer on the camera can be hit or miss. When reading back the info on the pictures i have previously taken, i have taken pics down to a quarter of a second with a cable release. and they are pin sharp if not a little grainy, but, these pictures would not have been possible just taking hand held pics and i would have just had blurry shots, and as we are not blessed with a sunny climate all year round. I agree that some people apply to much pressure quickly and therefore create their own camera shake. Using the cable release is the method i teach people in my digiscoping lectures.

To illustrate this point, attached is a pic of a LEO taken a few years ago with a coolpix 4500 in Jan 2003 at Welney, the pic was taken on an eight of a second in fading light, tripod set up in the car with no wind, i have lightened and sharpened to enhance, resized but not cropped, but without the cable release, this pic would have been a blur so i get to store more keepers on my computer

Rgds

Paul

Hi Paul.

I do understand that the majority of people seem to get on better with cable releases than not. However as Colin has not had much success with them I think it might be worth him trying without the cable release, but with the adapter (rather than purely handholding). With a Swarovski scope and a Coolpix 4500 he should be able to produce decent results, I reckon it's worth trying all methods before shelling out for more kit.

That said having seen your photos I'm certainly not going to argue methods with you - definitely one of the best digiscopers around. That owl photo is amazing, especially given the slow shutter speed.

OBXGuide said:

You might find this info useful, Colin. The link jumps down on the page, but you can scroll up and read as much as will help you.

http://www.opticsplanet.net/swarovski-digiscoping.html#s3-2

OBXGuide (Fred)
OuterBanksGuidebook.com & NCBirds.com

Click to expand...

Thanks Fred,

There is some useful stuff there which I was unaware of.

Colin

Many thanks Pete and Paul for your valuable input. I have had good results with adapter (DCA) and cable release, and also with "hand held" against the 'scope lens using finger to press shutter. With both methods have also used conventional (i.e. Andy Bright's) camera settings as well as programmed "Sports" mode. The problem is the total lack of consistency which I would like, although I accept that a huge percentage of takes will be rubbish.

I am a birder rather than a photographer but happen to live somewhere where scarcities and rarities occur very frequently. I frequently submit reports of sightings to the Portuguese Rarities Committee and often these are single-observer sightings which really require some photographic support.

I have had two "firsts for Portugal" this year: a Common Bulbul in March and a Bearded Tit (Reedling) in May. Fortunately I was with other "cred" birders when I found these but was shaking so much with excitement that photography was totally out of the question.

Have attached a few photos, all taken "hand held" in programmed Sports mode. The Peregrine I took on Sunday at Lagoa dos Salgados (Pera Marsh) in appalling light at a distance of 200 meters - it is heavily cropped and enhanced in Photoshop.

Colin