Birding Morocco (safety and other questions) (1 Viewer)

I see now and then birders asking about the safety while birding in Morocco. I just saw Nick’s response (quoted below) in the Lanner Falcon thread, because I don’t want to hijack the lanner’s thread (it's about the new book by Giovanni Leonardi), I started this thread for this purpose. If there is any future questions, I would like other birders to answer based on their own experiences.

wolfbirder said:

Cheers Nick, Morocco seems to be the best area for Lanner that I can see, though I am a little unsure about Morocco at present given the current situation. Though I know the risk is still low, even though I am a single traveller.

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As many already said, Morocco is one of the safest countries to visit, and one of the bird-rich places in the Western Palearctic. The Dutch birder and photographer Hans Overduin nicely summarised in his blog what he thinks about Morocco. The minor problems you may encounter in Morocco, can also encountered elsewhere including in Europe and North America. For the ‘hassle’ that some birders experiencing in some popular places, that is part of the enjoyments of the birding for some other birders. If you don’t want the goods or the services offered to you, just say “no, thank you” and it’s done.

A similar safety question was asked by an American birder in this thread (post 2), different European birders and me replied in posts 3, 4, 6 and 7. http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=249562

A week in Morocco in March 93 was nothing but trouble from the moment we landed, the worst place been Merja Zerga for the S B Curlews. Taking on Hassan as a guide we arrived at the Marshes & around 50 Men & youths surrounded us & Hassan told us to pay them to guard our car otherwise they would slash our tyres, this was highlighted by Nick Gardener in an arcticle in Birding would where the Police were involved, I even read of one Birder having his arm broken. The only places I found friendly were Zeida & Azrou, the hassle I received has put me off ever going back.

Mike.

Dog said:

A week in Morocco in March 93 was nothing but trouble from the moment we landed, the worst place been Merja Zerga for the S B Curlews. Taking on Hassan as a guide we arrived at the Marshes & around 50 Men & youths surrounded us & Hassan told us to pay them to guard our car otherwise they would slash our tyres, this was highlighted by Nick Gardener in an arcticle in Birding would where the Police were involved, I even read of one Birder having his arm broken. The only places I found friendly were Zeida & Azrou, the hassle I received has put me off ever going back.

Mike.

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On the other hand, my partner and I travelled round Morocco for a month birding in our van a few years ago, free parked pretty much wherever we liked, and had no more trouble than the odd few kids blagging like you get almost everywhere. And that was immediately after the USA went into Iraq. The most annoying bit was at the Bald Ibis site, where someone ran up to us and followed us around after we'd found the birds ourselves, pointing at them as we were watching them, and then wanted money for guiding, which of course we didn't give him.

...and on a positive note, when we got bogged in the sand, a party of local lads in their finest white outfits on the way to a special function stopped and helped dig/push us out, and certainly didn't do it for money.

Hi,

Birders visiting Morocco should find plenty of current trip reports from fellow birders.

What struck me was the most unpleasant harassing of birders visiting Tamri area for Bald Ibis by people demanding money, which I only once encountered before - near Birecik in Turkey.

Second was incredible number of policemen using speed radars in places where driving fast is not dangerous, as simple penalty traps - but this is a problem in many other countries. Although seeing policemen with handheld radar crouching in bushes between two lanes of a motorway in Morocco was especially striking.

I found it mostly OK in 2010. I gave some guy a lift and he was most grateful. Many people say that I was naive to give him a lift, but I keep on trying not to lose faith in humanity (and I was correct: he invited me over for tea and did not even try to sell me a carpet, although he was a carpet trader. I was almost offended, haha). At Oued Souss we paid for a guide once and mentioned his name again when we went for a second time. Oukaimeden was quite bad, but there were hardly any other people there (bad weather). The Moroccan tourists were hassled just as badly. Losing your temper definitely won't work.
At least the omnipresent police makes driving a very pleasant experience, unlike in many other countries where people always drive too fast for their limited training.

We enjoyed three holidays in Morroco, spending a week each in Ourzazate,Taroudant,and Essouaria.
We were out and about birdwatching,sightseeing and walking independently.
Apart from a few requests for money and fags, as well as one or two cheeky kids, it was more or less hassle free.
Some of the 'hassle' was a bit of a laugh.
One day we stopped the car in the middle of nowhere.As we were looking right, out of the window, there was a sudden, startling knock on the left hand window.
We wound the window down and a very rough looking, gap-toothed goat herder asked for money, then ciggies, and finally if he could kiss my wife.We just saw the funny side of it-it was the best offer she had all week.
Walking near an isolated village we heard some excited children's voices behind.When we turned round there was a line of five kids giggling and pointing at us.As we got closer to the village the following crowd became ten, then twenty.
We didn't say anything but when we reached the settlement we went into the local shop.We bought the entire sweet stock[cost about £3] and gave them to the children.
It all depends on you react to the hassle-just don't get wound up.
It is probably one of the best countries we have been to for bird watching,amazing scenery and historical buildings-and it is only four hours away!

I had 2 weeks in 98 with no issues at all, overun with kids at one place as I recall but that was the full extent of it.

Andy

When we landed at Tangiers 11pm, we picked up the Hire car which was empty so by the time we left the Airport around midnight we went looking for a Petrol station, we got ripped off for Petol as we had to use Sterling as we could not get any local currency before we entered the country. As there were only 2 of us 4 men were watching us then got in a car & headed off down the road ahead of us, was I been Paranoid (maybe) but I said to Paul go the other way , then we took a rough track down to the sea & slept on the Beach.
Over the following week we had 2 flat tyres in Hotels we stayed at when locals would be on hand to change the tyre for payment which we never did accept, then we get it inflated & not surprisingly it had just been let down on purpose.I don't mind a few people hassling me but 200 in Meknes was a bit much so we didn't stay long there.

Mike.

I was in Morocco for two weeks in April 2013, together with my wife on a mixed birding and touristic holiday. I can't remember a single troubling incident, an entirely positive experience overall. Great birds, good roads, easy to travel, and very nice people. And good food :t:

I have done five Morocco trips including one completely on my own and have never had any worrying incidents with people at all. The only time I ever felt nervous was when a pack of feral dogs took an interest in me.

Hopefully Morocco will remain a safe and enjoyable birding destination. I hope to go back on at least two more trips, including maybe next spring for Atlas Flycatcher and the hemipode.

Steve