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Kenya: Birding in Africa's Top Safari Destination (1 Viewer)

So this is already the end? As far as I could see you did not note the exact species number, but over 500 is impressive in particular if this is the entire itinerary, since that would mean you were never east of the Mara/Nairobi/Samburu line. When we were in Kenya, we focused mostly on mammals, but I was still absolutely fascinated by the numbers of birds. This is really one of the greatest countries to go to when to comes to nature.
 
So this is already the end? As far as I could see you did not note the exact species number, but over 500 is impressive in particular if this is the entire itinerary, since that would mean you were never east of the Mara/Nairobi/Samburu line. When we were in Kenya, we focused mostly on mammals, but I was still absolutely fascinated by the numbers of birds. This is really one of the greatest countries to go to when to comes to nature.
Still missing some stuff in the Maasai Mara and some species we picked up on the drive back to Nairobi, but overall this are all the main spots we followed.

As you said we missed the whole Eastern portion of the country, so no Tsavo, Amboseli or the coastal region. But it's just another reason to return as the bird and wildlife viewing is as you said, some of the best in the world.

When you did your trip, did you spend a lot of time in conservancies or were you driving through the national parks at night hoping to not get caught? Just wondering since apperantly it's only legal to drive at night on private lands.
 
You can't really drive in the national parks at night, a car is conspicuous and they would quickly get you. You can get some dusk/dawn action though. Obviously this is not optimal for mammals, but we still saw a lot of species during daytime. To see nocturnal mammals, we could walk freely in Kakamega and Saiwa Swamp (confirmed by rangers) and we did some night walks of questionable legality in Mt. Elgon and Arabuko-Sokoke and we explored at least the campsite in others - even that can bring you new mammals, there was a Somali Galago right in the campsite in Meru and a Tree Hyrax in the campsite in Aberdare for example. For real night drives we visited Rukinga for two nights - it's private but it's amazingly cheap and that was really the highlight of the trip.
 
  • May 27 (Maasai Mara)​
Today we had a full day in the Mara Triangle, this region of the Maasai Mara is overall seen as a better area for birding purposes due to the smaller number of visitors and it is particular well represented in the raptor and wading bird groups. Before heading out, we noticed a new mammal in the trees right above our rooms in the shape of Bush Hyrax and the early morning drive had us going towards the Mara River in hopes to find some special birds in the woodlands surrounding the river. On the drive there, a pair of Temminck's Courser were seen by everyone in the group, but the first new bird of the trip was the Fan-tailed Grassbird, a weird grassland specialty with a patchy range throughout Sub-Saharan Africa. Once we reached the woodland, a small group of Meyer's Parrot made their presence known from the top of the tree canopy, a Schalow's Turaco was also heard but sadly never seen, thus leaving the last potential turaco of the trip in the heard-only category. Driving back close to the river we noticed the bloats of Common Hippopotamus and on the drive towards the Western corner of the triangle we saw a distant pair of Black Rhinoceros.​
As the day heated up, raptor activity began to rise as well, with 11 species seen this morning! Some of the highlight birds include Lappet-faced Vulture, Brown and Black-chested Snake-Eagle and an out-of-season Eurasian Marsh-Harrier. Looking at the swallow flocks eventually got us views of Rufous-chested Swallow and in one of the pools we eventually found a much-more cooperative Rufous-bellied Heron than the one seen the previous day. A quick bathroom break in the Western gate of the Mara also had us take the commemorative trip photo and driving back to the lodge had us find some species we had missed so far for the day, but new birds were few and far in-between, with some relatively expected and large species like African Woolly-necked and Saddle-billed Stork being oddly missing. However, we were able to connect with one of the best birds in the region when I erroneously pointed out a "Striated Heron" on top of a bush, Alex quickly backtracked when I said that and sure enough, the bird was something much better as it was a Dwarf Bittern! Leaving with that happy note back to the lodge, we had lunch and a nap break before hitting the road in the afternoon.​
As it was the last day, some members of the group decided to stay back and properly pack up, but some of us wanted more of the Mara and sure enough this afternoon drive was going to give us that. Soon after leaving the lodge, we spotted a faraway kill that contained the typical scavengers in these savannas as Black-backed Jackal, Spotted Hyena, White-backed and Hooded Vulture were all taking scraps from the kill. Moving from there we encountered a three birds that represent one of the highlights of the Mara, Southern Ground-Hornbill, we enjoyed the bird forage for a couple of minutes and admire their long eyelashes before being distracted yet again, but this time is was by a pair of Cheetah that walked right next to the truck and posed for photos.​
The afternoon was already looking good, but we decided to make it back to the site where we saw the Leopard yesterday. On the way there, Alex was explaining why there were absolutely no Blue Wildebeest in the Mara, even though there is a resident population in Kenya. The answer to that was quite simple, most of the wildebeest leave the Mara towards the conservancy lands outside of the reserve as the carnivores tend to not follow after them in fear of confrontation with the Maasai tribes. Simply put, the resident wildebeest are smart enough to not stay in the reserve unless the migratory herds are around acting as easy meals for the predators; and wouldn't you know it, in that exact moment I noticed a single Blue Wildebeest in the middle of the savanna, far away from any herd or even some cover! We joked that was probably the dumbest wildebeest in the Maasai Mara and kept driving towards the Leopard spot and sure enough the big cat was there. Earlier in the day some people got to see it with a kill up the acacia tree, but by the time we got there he was just being a lazy cat in the shade, falling asleep, licking his paws and just being a happy cat. It was a rare moment you don't enjoy when seeing a nature documentary, but here you had an animal, a predator, just content with his life, even if the blind eye he had was proof that he was rejected in the worst possible way by a potential mate in the last couple of days.​
Once we were satisfied with the Leopard, we began the drive back, at this point, the golden hour had hit the region and we enjoyed as the flocks of Yellow-fronted Canary flushed off the road, listened to the Rosy-throated Longclaw in the bushes and enjoyed seeing herd after herd of elephants, each with multiple babies. We were driving towards a spot that in the past there had been reports of Marsh Owl, sadly the owl was not to be seen, but I'd say that connecting with Banded Martin flying at eye level and a group of White-bellied Bustard is as good a closer to this day as we could hope. Tomorrow we had a long drive to Nairobi for an evening departure back home and everyone was wondering how many more new birds we would connect with on the way back.​
 
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  • May 28 (Maasai Mara and Departure)​
Last morning in Kenya and we had a long drive through the Mara to get to Nairobi before sunset. However, no morning drive through the savanna would be possible without a few stops, the birds we noticed along the way included Black-bellied Bustard, Pectoral-patch Cisticola and Sooty Chat. Once at the Mara River crossing, we noticed the river was filled with hippos and this turned to be a good sign of the mammal activity in the Southern section of the Mara as the mammal sightings would be outstanding. The first thing we noticed was a caravan of vehicles actively waiting for something to appear from the bushes and sure enough, a female Leopard walked out much to our excitement followed by a quick dismay as we saw the many safari trucks full of tourists actively harassing the animal, all in the name of getting a "better view". The Leopard ran into the grasses, which normally would be enough to let her move freely as you are not allowed to drive off the roads unless there's an extreme emergency, but nobody seemed to care as they corralled the animal and at that point we told Alex to leave. Sadly this seemed to be a regular occurrence, and as Alex put it, this is the daily views you get here during the months of the wildebeest migration, safari trucks full of tourists and drivers that care more for a little extra tip at the end rather than the well-being of the animals.​
Leaving that bittersweet experience behind, we located a small pride of Lions, complete with a watchful female, a resting father and three active cubs. We spent around 15 minutes with them before going on our way, only to see the two remaining Cheetah brothers in the shade of a bush, simply put, in the span of an hour, we had seen all three big cats of East Africa back-to-back! Alex had never experienced this before and he said it was very unlikely that he would again in the near future as normally the luck goes that you get one or two of the cats one day and you target the missing one in the second day in the Mara. This would have been enough to leave us happy as we were less than a couple of miles from the gate, but sure enough, we would get an unforgettable send off as a lioness came within 3 meters of the vehicle, plopped down and allowed us to enjoy her in full majesty for about 5 minutes before more safari trucks came by and she decided that was enough posing.​
We reached entrance with little over an hour before midday, the final time we had to leave the reserve and since this was a birding trip and we've had 0 new birds so far, Alex took us through a back road in hope of adding some species. The road was one that led to the Maasai tribes in the area and the more budget friendly lodges, but it was still good dry acacia habitat and the potential for new birds was there. The heat of the day made it difficult to connect with some of the more sought-after targets like Gray-crested Helmetshrike, but we reconnected with some species we've seen previously in the trip like Von der Decken's Hornbill, Black-backed Puffback and Bare-faced Go-away-bird. New species included the potential future split D'Arnaud's (Usambiro) Barbet, plus Red-faced Crombec, Swahili Sparrow and Silverbird. This stop also provided us the last new mammal of the trip in the diminutive Common Dwarf Mongoose.​
Once out of the Mara, we stopped for a quick lunch break before continuing on our way North, the drive was uneventful but at the time we thought we had only encountered 498 species for the trip (at this point we were actually past 500), but in hopes of finding just 2 more birds, we made drove through Highway B3 in the Rift Valley hoping to connect with the Abyssinian Wheatear, and we had a beautiful male show off for us. After a slow and tense filled drive up the Rift Valley mountains to enter Nairobi, we made it to Manguo Swamp, an wetland area near Limuru just Northeast of Nairobi. The area was our last intended stop of the trip and we went there in hopes of connecting with Maccoa Duck, a difficult to fin species that's been seen here in the past; sadly the duck was a no-show and our last new bird for the trip was none other than the Red-knobbed Coot, which was the most numerous bird in the wetland.​
With everyone feeling accomplished, we were invited to a surprised farewell dinner and as we said our goodbyes to Alex in the airport. The immigration process was pretty straightforward with the incredible number of security checks being the biggest surprise. Everyone made it home safe and with no issues of missing/delayed flights. Thus ending this successful trip through Africa's premier wildlife destinations and easily one of the best trips many of us have taken in our lives.​
 
Photos of May 25 & 26
  • African Openbill
  • Thompson's Gazelle
  • Gray-crowned Crane
  • Rosy-throated Longclaw
  • Kori Bustard
  • Mwanza flat-headed Rock Agama
  • Black-bellied Bustard
  • Gray Kestrel
  • Lilac-breasted Roller
  • Topi
 

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Photos of May 27 & 28
  • Temminck's Courser
  • Meyer's Parrot
  • Dwarf Bittern
  • Southern Ground-Hornbill
  • Cheetah
  • Common Hippopotamus
  • African Leopard
  • African Lion
  • Abyssinian Wheatear
  • Fan-tailed Grassbird
 

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Thats cool. It seems like an amazing experience. I’m hopefully doing Uganda next year but I’m already looking at the gazelles and thinking about Kenya
Uganda has decent "classic Safari" Options as well. With a little bit of different species but surprisingly good to me. We visited Queen Elizabeth and Lake Mburo National Park here. But the mammal standouts are of course the Gorilla and Chimp trekkings in the forest National Parks.
 
Great report Luis - I meant to say congratulations on the White-backed Night Heron . I had no idea it was a possibility in Nairobi.

Any pix?

Cheers
Mike
 
Great report Luis - I meant to say congratulations on the White-backed Night Heron . I had no idea it was a possibility in Nairobi.

Any pix?

Cheers
Mike
eBird is your friend, the local guide was not aware of it either from his lack of use of eBird.

I checked it out and told him, sure enough the herons were roosting in the river border between the park and the public lands to the south and they had only appeared there in the last 2 months.

If I had one complaint about the trip was that the guides went a lot by their knowledge from previous trips (sometimes years ago) and didn't want to use eBird (I was the trip compiler for that reason). But this is just a nitpick that shows how stuff like eBird is still taking a long time to establish in the region like it already has in the Americas, not a detriment to the guides and overall they got us over 80% of the targets listed in the itinerary, plus a couple dozen bonus ones!
 

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really impressive list. Even after visiting Uganda and SOuth Africa i would still score around 200 lifers here. And some great quality species on there as well.
Both of those countries are next on my Africa bucket list, so let's see how many I get then, but it's definitely surprising we got that amount, even the guide couldn't believe we got that high without visiting East of the Mara and without a good number European migrants.
 
Both of those countries are next on my Africa bucket list, so let's see how many I get then, but it's definitely surprising we got that amount, even the guide couldn't believe we got that high without visiting East of the Mara and without a good number European migrants.
Uganda was great. We didnt do a bird tour there and I definetly have to return again and still saw an impressive list of birds. Gorillas are somehow even more impressive though :D
 
I'm a birder first, but I'd be a clear liar if I didn't say the Uganda is for me Shoebill and Gorillas first and foremost
I sadly left without shoebill. We booked a packaged tour there from "Aldi" ( a german supermarketchain) out of all. Was a steal. But of course they didnt focus on Birding :D
 
Hey! Just wanted to say I really enjoyed reading this. I went to Kenya this summer for a missions trip and was lucky enough to spend some time on vacation as well on the Maasai Mara and saw SO many amazing species. Definitely the best trip ever. Its impossible to choose a favorite, but one that sticks out was the African Jacana, several of which I watched for half an hour. I so excited because I had watched a Documentary the month prior featuring their ability to walk on lily pads due to their large feet. It was super cool to see it in person, and was a total surprise! maybe if I find time I can write a fun trip summary like yours, although it wont be as nicely done ofc!
 
Hey! Just wanted to say I really enjoyed reading this. I went to Kenya this summer for a missions trip and was lucky enough to spend some time on vacation as well on the Maasai Mara and saw SO many amazing species. Definitely the best trip ever. Its impossible to choose a favorite, but one that sticks out was the African Jacana, several of which I watched for half an hour. I so excited because I had watched a Documentary the month prior featuring their ability to walk on lily pads due to their large feet. It was super cool to see it in person, and was a total surprise! maybe if I find time I can write a fun trip summary like yours, although it wont be as nicely done ofc!
Jacanas are always a fun bird to see, if you want to see their most extreme example, plan a trip to Asia and see the Pheasant-tailed Jacana! Nothing quite like it in this family.

The Mara was an amazing, laid-back experience for us. We still had/hoped for a few bird species, but after nearly two weeks, we settled for a few flagship species and connecting with the big cats.
 

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