Product Review: Nikon E II 8 x 30. (1 Viewer)

[Dipperdapper]

Neil,
Yes, camphor is a larger molecule. Per the reference below it has a “density similar to water”. Given these binoculars are subject to penetration by H2O, seems to me that camphor vapor might well enter the inner workings of these instruments. I just want to avoid something that might be caustic to more than fusarium species (like our binoculars) long term in a closed system.
I really don’t know how to test other than through experimentation but I like the concept.
I really think just keeping the unit very dry, through use of a desiccant, will go a long way to keep the spores as spores. Should prevent conversion to a vegetative hyphae/mycelium producing state, which is really the ultimate goal.
One will never have luck getting rid of all the spores except through use of some unacceptable alternative in this application (bleach, phenol, alcohol, etc.)
Just some thoughts,
Don

Camphor

Camphor | C10H16O | CID 2537 - structure, chemical names, physical and chemical properties, classification, patents, literature, biological activities, safety/hazards/toxicity information, supplier lists, and more.

pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov

Dear Don,

I think your suggestion is eminently sensible. I gave both the Nikon E II and Opticron Sr.GA a week in the tubs with some camphor balls and desiccant but have now removed the camphor. Maybe I could just do this periodically, say every six months or so. Will need to give this some more thought but for now it's all about enjoying those porros.

Hope to start the SR.GA later today.

Thanks a million for the advice!

With best wishes,

Neil.

 

[henry link]

In general I tested more "10x" bino than "8x" bino but here are the results:
These tests are done to differentiate my personal binoculars in terms of resolution. So it reflects what I saw through these binoculars with a degree of subjectivity. The tests are done on a fine line chart 10m away from the tripod. The conclusions are drawn from several repeated tests.
Leica 8x20 BCA - resolves 0.011 resolution
Nikon HGL 8x32 - resolve 0.011 (almost 0.010)- low contrast
Zeiss VP 8x25 - resolve 0.011 (almost 0.010)
Nikon HG 8x30 - resolve 0.010 resolution
Nikon E2 8x30 - resolve 0.009 resolution
Steiner Nighthunter 8x56 - resolve 0.009 resolution

Habicht 8x30 I did not test it on this resolution chart but I compared it intensively with another pair of binoculars (Nikon Monarch 5 10X42 ED) which was a standard for me at that time, and which I had then with me. Habicht even if it is an 8x showed a little more resolution on the field than this Nikon 10x42 which resolved 0.009 lines in my test chart. But may be it also mattered that Habicht had a greater contrast which gives me an impression of more resolution!

This method isn't likely to measure a binocular's true resolution (unless it's seriously defective). The numbers are essentially measurements of your own eyesight acuity (divided by 8) at the particular moment you did the test and under the particular conditions of the test. Someone else doing the test with eyesight acuity half as good as yours would generate numbers twice as large even though the true resolving power of the instruments would, of course, remain the same.

 

[dorubird]

henry link, #42​

Yes, I know! It's just a subjective resolution comparison not a true resolution test. But yet I can to conclude with certainty that the binoculars with which I see only 0.010 lines have a lower resolution than the one that shows me 0.009 lines

 

[henry link]

You're trying to do something that's inherently unreliable, which is to make judgements about "resolution" at the very tiny level of your eyesight's acuity limit, which can vary over a short time. There's a way out of that and it's simply to boost the magnification of a binocular with a small telescope placed behind the eyepiece (another binocular will do) until its resolution limit is large enough to be easily seen without taking your eyesight to its limit.

Do that and you're likely to find that all these binoculars have higher resolution than you've been measuring, but the spread of resolution differences among them (including different sides of the same binocular) will be greater than you've been measuring.

 

[Rg548]

OR..... just have a look through them and see if they're any good

 

[SIGDMER]

Dear Don,

I think your suggestion is eminently sensible. I gave both the Nikon E II and Opticron Sr.GA a week in the tubs with some camphor balls and desiccant but have now removed the camphor. Maybe I could just do this periodically, say every six months or so. Will need to give this some more thought but for now it's all about enjoying those porros.

Hope to start the SR.GA later today.

Thanks a million for the advice!

With best wishes,

Neil.

Dear Don,

I think your suggestion is eminently sensible. I gave both the Nikon E II and Opticron Sr.GA a week in the tubs with some camphor balls and desiccant but have now removed the camphor. Maybe I could just do this periodically, say every six months or so. Will need to give this some more thought but for now it's all about enjoying those porros.

Hope to start the SR.GA later today.

Thanks a million for the advice!

With best wishes,

Neil.

Dear Neil,

Use of camphor balls for 7-10 days every six months (every four months is my thought to be on the safe side in a moist environment) sounds right to me. Also, if you encounter an instance where your binoculars may have gotten wet, I would surely given them a camphor dose in the tub, obvious I know. I am going to use a carefully chosen 100% camphor essential oil since for me that is the closest easily sourced equivalent to the reagent grade camphor cited in the abstract you posted. The “camphor moth balls” available here are many times NOT camphor based at all.

I also am planning to use the desiccant noted below. Has the advantage of letting you know the status of the silica gel desiccant and current ability to absorb moisture. Can also be recharged when needed (details below). One never knows with the little packets of silica gel if they are saturated or not. Also, the 100g unit suggested will be very effective and long lasting in the relatively small volume of the binoculars storage tub. Similar units are used in closed anaerobic chambers in the microbiology laboratory for moisture control with generally good success.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09F2WR2RD?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

My Opticron SR.GA 8x32 now scheduled for delivery the latter part of next week, excited! Looking forward to another of your insightful reviews!

Take care,

Don

 

[wllmspd]

I should note that Camphor is highly toxic and can be inhaled, ingested and absorbed through the skin. I would suggest that one should check for safe handling and usage guidance to minimise the risk to people, pets, children etc. stay safe. for instance https://beta-static.fishersci.com/c...ocuments/sds/chemicals/chemicals-c/S25232.pdf
It might be that desiccant will hinder fungus growth on its own as long as you ensure it is recharged/replaced as needed.

Peter

 

[jafritten]

Keeping your binoculars dry at all times is probably the best way to prevent fungus. I don't usually use my E2 in moist conditions. But if I couldn't avoid it, I'd store them in an air tight box with some plain salt in it afterwards. That's what I did the other day with my little son's kiddie camera after he tried to shoot a film of his dinosaurs wading through water. He immersed his camera halfway so as to get an interesting perspective. Pretty cool idea. But afterwards there was moisture in the viewfinder and also inside the display screen. Probably in other places as well. After two days it came out perfectly dry and with no defects.

 

[jafritten]

This is how I modified my E2s. They hang a bit more comfortable now but not really worth the effort. The rubber cuffs make for a better protection of the objective lenses and a safer stand, though. They're from a motor scooter spare part supplier.

 

[NDhunter]

Dear Neil,

Use of camphor balls for 7-10 days every six months (every four months is my thought to be on the safe side in a moist environment) sounds right to me. Also, if you encounter an instance where your binoculars may have gotten wet, I would surely given them a camphor dose in the tub, obvious I know. I am going to use a carefully chosen 100% camphor essential oil since for me that is the closest easily sourced equivalent to the reagent grade camphor cited in the abstract you posted. The “camphor moth balls” available here are many times NOT camphor based at all.

I also am planning to use the desiccant noted below. Has the advantage of letting you know the status of the silica gel desiccant and current ability to absorb moisture. Can also be recharged when needed (details below). One never knows with the little packets of silica gel if they are saturated or not. Also, the 100g unit suggested will be very effective and long lasting in the relatively small volume of the binoculars storage tub. Similar units are used in closed anaerobic chambers in the microbiology laboratory for moisture control with generally good success.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09F2WR2RD?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

My Opticron SR.GA 8x32 now scheduled for delivery the latter part of next week, excited! Looking forward to another of your insightful reviews!

Take care,

Don

Beware, Camphor has nothing to do with being a desiccant. It is simply the smelly thing used in Vicks vaporub, etc.
I want to make sure that is clear.
Storage of optics requires desiccants, and that may mean absorbent packs, or a heater used in a closed space.
Gel packs are easily filled with water, and so they are often neglected.
I have a large safe, and I use a Goldenrod electric dehumidifier, they are very simple and need no maintenance.
Jerry

 

[Dipperdapper]

Quick Update:

I was on Clifton Cameras website this morning and noticed that the Nikon EII models are now being called Nikon Nature EII:

https://www.cliftoncameras.co.uk/Nikon-Nature-8x30-E-II-Binoculars

So, is this an indication that they are now back in production or just a strategy to move older stock ? The former scenario would be good news but the prices are high: £599 for the 8 x 30 and £750 for the 10 x 35

I think they're still awaiting stock.



Neil.

 

[dorubird]

The E2 models are no longer listed on the Nikon website:

Binoculars - Bird Watching, Stargazing & More | Nikon

Explore Nikon outdoor binoculars for bird watching, hiking, stargazing, marine observation, astronomy and more. Shop full size, compact or zoom binoculars.

www.nikonusa.com

 

[pat mitchel]

Correct insofar as were are talking about the Nikon USA page. They are still listed on the nikon general site
Nikon | Sport Optics | Nature Watching Regards, Pat

 

[jafritten]

They're still listed on the German site but they're out of stock. I'm so happy I was able to procure one with the latest coatings earlier this year.
Nikon Germany

 

[wllmspd]

Their Nikon part number seems to imply they’re just standard E2, nothing new, so who knows, one hopes that Nikon will keep making them…

Peter

 

[Dipperdapper]

I think it was an excellent review of the Nikon E2, one of the best I’ve seen on these binos.

I have to Respectfully disagree that a Nikon E2 is in the same class of a Leica Ultravid.
Although they are very nice binoculars and a great bang for the buck as quality optics go, they really don’t compare to the sharpness and resolution then an ultravid. The Leica’s are on another level.

I find that the Nikon E2, although a very sharp binocular, to me is a little dull and bland. It doesn’t have that image pop. The Nikon SE is more in that category. You could pick up a good SE for about the same price as new E2, and there is a nice jump in sharpness, brightness and image resolution. Although the FOV is smaller the sweet spot might even be bigger then the E2 ( I might have to test myself) because of the Field flattener it is much better corrected edge to edge.

That’s a good discussion (E2vsSE) probability done here multiple times.

Thank you

Dear Paul,

I've found a real good roof prism binocular that exceeds the sharpness and contrast of the Nikon E II 8 x 30. It's the new Svbony SV 202 8 x 42 ED:

Product Review: The Extraordinary Svbony SV202 8 x 42 ED.

Evening All, Please find attached my latest review on the new Svbony SV202 8x 42 ED binocular: https://neilenglish.net/product-review-svbony-sv202-8-x-42/ I hope you find it interesting! Kind Regards, Neil.

www.birdforum.net

I posted some more details on this on my CN thread (post #119):

The Remarkable Svbony SV202 10 x 42 ED Binocular - Page 5 - Binoculars - Cloudy Nights

Page 5 of 5 - The Remarkable Svbony SV202 10 x 42 ED Binocular - posted in Binoculars: Ok, so Ive ordered a 10x42 today after reading all the reviews here. I wonder how do they compare with more expensive models like the Zeiss Conquest HD or Leica Trinovid HD in terms of brightness, sharpness an...

www.cloudynights.com

Kind regards,

Neil.

 

[JanPB]

Ps. Would love to hear how long-term users of the EII have managed cold weather conditions.

Thanks,

Neil.

I used them in the Alps without any problem. It was also a good test for chromatic aberration: lots of B&W high-contrast scenery (it passed). But on very warm days the leather-like layer may start sort of moving a bit.

 

[Dipperdapper]

Cheers for that Jan.

I've been doing some cold weather (<5 C) experiments with both my EII 8 x 30 and 10x 35 E. I use gloves when handling them so as not to transfer too much heat from my bare hands. On windy days, I encounter no problems with the ocular lenses fogging up but on colder, still days with no wind, they can fog up quickly. I've found a new antifogging spray from Zeiss which is applied with a microfibre cloth to both the ocular and objective lenses. I use it on those windless cold days. It works well to rapidly disperse any accidental fog on the lenses. Lasts for about 72 hours.

In addition, I leave their desiccant filled plastic containers in a cold outhouse and just put them in there once I come back in. Then I bring them into a cool back lobby before finally storing them at room temperature. Zero fogging so far! Just takes a bit of organisation on my part!

Best wishes,

Neil.

 

[brocknroller]

Hello Everyone,

Please find a link to my completed review of the Nikon E II porro prism binocular:

Product Review: Nikon E II 8 x 30. | Neil English.net

I hope you find it informative.


With best wishes,

Neil.View attachment 1446796

Nicely done! I'm happy you are a fellow porro fan. As you can see from my avatar (Ignazio Porro), I'm also a porro aficionado, but I'm thinning the herd and currently have two LNIB E2s for sale in the BF Classifieds (8x and 10x).

I also have the Nikon 8x30 100th Anniversary edition, Nikon 8x32 SE, Swift Audubon 804 FMC, Fuji 6x30 FMTR-SX, Nikon 7x35 Action and 7x35 WF, and Nikon 8-16x40 XL Premium Zoom binoculars. I have a few roofs-- a Nikon 8x42 EDG and two Cabela 8x32 Guides (a great bang for the buck, MIJ). Last year, I moved close to water, so I appreciate the waterproofing of roofs, sand I also like how I can focus closer with roofs, but I still prefer the handling and 3-D view of porros. However, very few high quality porros are being made today. Roofs are where optics manufacturers are putting their efforts.

 

[brocknroller]

I used them in the Alps without any problem. It was also a good test for chromatic aberration: lots of B&W high-contrast scenery (it passed). But on very warm days the leather-like layer may start sort of moving a bit.

The first version of E2s had thin, flimsy rubber armoring that would begin to peel off just from the heat of your hands! They had a sliver speckled body like the 100th Anniversary Edition (though it has the newer, harder armoring). Except for the Fuji 6x30 FMTR-SX, which is WP, I haven't taken my porros out in cold weather since I moved. I used to put them in the unheated cellar after going out in my old house, so they could get acclimated before bringing them upstairs to prevent fogging. Here, I have fuel oil heat, and the hottest room in the house is the basement where the furnace is, so I can't put them down there to acclimate. So, in the winter, I turn to my roofs. Not many birds here in the winter, though I did see a belted Kingfisher last winter diving for fish in the stream that runs through the nearby park. She (female with rufous band) was apparently a migrant since I didn't see her again in the spring. If you do use the E2s or any other non-WP porro in the winter, it's a good idea to acclimate them slowly to room temperature since I'm told they can fog internally. But if they made it up to the Alps and are still working, they may be harder than I thought.