• Welcome to BirdForum, the internet's largest birding community with thousands of members from all over the world. The forums are dedicated to wild birds, birding, binoculars and equipment and all that goes with it.

    Please register for an account to take part in the discussions in the forum, post your pictures in the gallery and more.
ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Simple question... (7 Viewers)

10x works fine if you wrap your arms round a lamppost or small tree. Or just lean against a tree.

I often use the top of a fence or windowsill or on top of the car, or indoors just touching the front of the binocular against the double glazing.

Then there is the Canon 10×30 IS.
 
There are times I wish I had something to brace myself against though.

Funny but every time I use a 10x I find myself wishing to see less (shake) ;)

I guess we all have different tolerances for dealing with shake. I have been using a 10X for years (along with 8X and 7X) and have developed ways to deal with it to my satisfaction. Shake appears to fall in the same category as CA, rolling ball, weight and size. Everybody differs on what they can accept.

Some binoculars seem harder to control than others. The more rearward balance of the SF makes it easier for me and that is one of the reasons for my selection. I get the advantage of a 10X when needed but in a more steady package.

Bracing helps. I can generally find something to brace against and will do that with a 10X or another power. The biggest advantage of the 8X for me is I can hold on the subject a little longer. The larger FOV on some is also a nice benefit. But so long as I can control the shake, I would rather have that little extra from a 10X if allowed only one binocular. Ultimately it is about making things appear closer than they are.
 
Last edited:
Out of interest, off the top of their head, does anybody know what is the heaviest bino chosen so far...and the lightest?

Edit: Nikon Monarch 7 8x30 - 435grams? :eek!: astonishing little things

Nikon M7 / 8x30 :
435 grams is actually 15.4 ounces ... might be the lightest mentioned
(Is that "eek...it's very light?")

Meopta MeoPro 8x32: 21.1 oz / 598 g (I think the 6.5x32 is a few oz. more but out of print)

Swarovski EL 10x42: 28.2 oz / 799.47 g

Swarovski 8x30 CL: 17.64 oz / 500 g

Zeiss 8x32 FL: 19.7oz / 558 g

8.5x42 Swarovski SV: 28 oz / 793.80 g

Yosemite 6x30: 17 oz / 482 g (impressively light for a Porro!)

--------------------------------------

So.... x42 is naturally heavier than x30-32, thick armor and metal chassis
heavier than composite body ..

Hefting the Meopta 6.5x32, it's not that heavy .. it just looks big.
A great view comes from all that machined metal.
 
Last edited:
The larger FOV on some is also a nice benefit. But so long as I can control the shake, I would rather have that little extra from a 10X if allowed only one binocular. Ultimately it is about making things appear closer than they are.

I find the 8x to be the more relaxing, and the difference between 8x and 10x to be too small to notice. At the distances I am usually watching (across fjords, lakes and Arctic tundra), I feel that only a high powered binocular or scope (15x or more) really makes a difference to the 8x.

We are all different I guess! ;)
 
Nikon M7 / 8x30 :
435 grams is actually 15.4 ounces ... might be the lightest mentioned
(Is that "eek...it's very light?")

Meopta MeoPro 8x32: 21.1 oz / 598 g (I think the 6.5x32 is a few oz. more but out of print)

Swarovski EL 10x42: 28.2 oz / 799.47 g

Swarovski 8x30 CL: 17.64 oz / 500 g

Zeiss 8x32 FL: 19.7oz / 558 g

8.5x42 Swarovski SV: 28 oz / 793.80 g

Yosemite 6x30: 17 oz / 482 g (impressively light for a Porro!)

--------------------------------------

So.... x42 is naturally heavier than x30-32, thick armor and metal chassis
heavier than composite body ..

Hefting the Meopta 6.5x32, it's not that heavy .. it just looks big.
A great view comes from all that machined metal.

Re the monarch 7 8x30, It was an 'eek' of positive astonishment. I had a look through them for only a few minutes recently and they're so small, and seemed so good.
They're exactly a bag of sugar (one kg) lighter than the porcine Fujinon 7x50.
I would definitely consider The big Fuji as my only bino...but not to carry daily!
 
Last edited:
I find the ........ difference between 8x and 10x to be too small to notice. .........

We are all different I guess! ;)

Is the difference for you to small to notice or to small to care? (If the difference is to small to noticed, then I guess it would be to small to care.) I am able to see the small difference and find it useful at times.
 
I guess we all have different tolerances for dealing with shake. I have been using a 10X for years (along with 8X and 7X) and have developed ways to deal with it to my satisfaction. Shake appears to fall in the same category as CA, rolling ball, weight and size. Everybody differs on what they can accept.

Some binoculars seem harder to control than others. The more rearward balance of the SF makes it easier for me and that is one of the reasons for my selection. I get the advantage of a 10X when needed but in a more steady package.

Bracing helps. I can generally find something to brace against and will do that with a 10X or another power. The biggest advantage of the 8X for me is I can hold on the subject a little longer. The larger FOV on some is also a nice benefit. But so long as I can control the shake, I would rather have that little extra from a 10X if allowed only one binocular. Ultimately it is about making things appear closer than they are.

It's all about conditions to me, how tired am I, how hard is the wind blowing, am I able to brace myself. It's the reason I like the 6X so well.

Sometimes, there just isnt much to brace yourself on.
IMG_2122.jpg
 
Re the monarch 7 8x30, It was an 'eek' of positive astonishment. I had a look through them for only a few minutes recently and they're so small, and seemed so good.
They're exactly a bag of sugar (one kg) lighter than the porcine Fujinon 7x50.
I would definitely consider The big Fuji as my only bino...but not to carry daily!
If you think the Nikon Monarch 7's are small and good you really should try some of the smaller alpha glass to see what really good is. You would be astonished.
 
Last edited:
Perterra .... I can see where that Prickly Pear cactus would make for an uncomfortable arm rest! ;) Looks like you have some long distance views in your part of the country.
 
Perterra .... I can see where that Prickly Pear cactus would make for an uncomfortable arm rest! ;) Looks like you have some long distance views in your part of the country.

Thats a few hours south and west of me, other than the wind I could probably get by with a 10 there pretty easy, last time I hiked in the 8,000 to 10,000 ft elevations, a 6X was shaky. I dont even own a 10X currently, I have a 9.5 but thats it for the upper end.
 
Perterra .... I can see where that Prickly Pear cactus would make for an uncomfortable arm rest! ;) Looks like you have some long distance views in your part of the country.

This morning I was experiencing Terrible close focus issues (an unfortunate compromise with my chosen binos).... It completely ruined what could have been a great viewing experience.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    401.9 KB · Views: 88
Last edited:
Rathaus ... Next time turn the binocular around and look through the objective end, that should improve your viewing experience!

What is the story on the bird? Looks like a cool guy.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 9 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top