Part Three of 'Felines and Critters of the Night', Kruger.
22 July, Kruger, Punda Maria.
Dawn, northern Limpopo Province, 14 hours on the road, only 140 km or so left to go. Stopped in Makhado to stock up in the local supermarket, then took the R524 to the Kruger entrance, Vervet Monkeys on route, plus birds such as Grey Go-away Birds and Striped Kingfisher in the agricultural areas, the vegetation a lush mosaic of banana, maize and jacaranda.
At the gates of the national park, the vegatation immediately reverts to the thick thornveld and acacia woodland typical of the north of Kruger. And along with the transformation, very obvious evidence that you have entered this park - decorating the road at very regular intervals, Elephant poo! Quite a bump if you choose to drive over some of the offerings!
In the ten kilometres from the gates to Punda Maria, we were soon getting to grips with the local wildlife - gone were the Springbok and Gemsbok of Kgalagadi, the dominant mammals were now Impala, herds of them occurring virtually everywhere, a good couple of hundred noted in this single stretch alone. Also the first Nyala of the trip, two massive Buffalo lurking in thick bush and a loose association of Giraffe grazing acacia tops. Overhead, a circling mass of White-backed Vultures suggested a kill nearby, while other birds on this first section also included Martial Eagle, Brown Snake-Eagle and Brown-hooded Kingfisher.
Of the camps in Kruger, Punda Maria is one of my favourites, not only set in an excellent area for birds, but also small and relatively untouristed. Critically, it is also the best camp for access to the fantastic Pafuri area some distance further north, my plan for the next day. Arriving, we checked in, then again selected the most remote corner to pitch our tent, the tracks and trails of animals very visible just beyond. With the temperature a glorious 28 C and having been effectively driving since dawn the previous day, a small siesta seemed most apt - my friend collapsed on a mattress, I 'spilt' a few crumbs around the site. Like magic powder, it instantaniously turns the dusty ground into a theatre of bird action - Dark-eyed Bulbuls and Yellow-bellied Greenbuls bouncing about, one Kurrichane Thrush hopping in, Fork-tailed Drongos swooping in, Yellow-billed Hornbills too. Coffee brewed, then a quick wander around the campsite, Vervet Monkeys pranking around, plus a little flock of Blue Waxbills and quite a number of Grey-headed Sparrows.
Siesta time over, grassland east of Punda Maria was calling - though still a little hot to really encounter too much, it was a nice introduction to the region's birds nevertheless, additions to the day's tally including Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove, Long-tailed Shrike, Brown-crowned Tchagra and Croaking Cisticola. Also dozens of Impala again, a couple of Scrub Hares scampering off through the bush, plus our first Tree Squirrels of the trip. Having completed a loop of some 30 km, we then returned to camp to relax for a while.
A couple of hours before sunset, we set off for the Mahonie Loop, an excellent trail that harbours a number of regional specialities and is also rather picturesque to boot, mixed woodland rising over rocky knolls and into narrow stream valleys. Good birding throughout, Crested Francolins and Natal Francolins quickly located, plus a covey of the punk-haired Crested Guineafowls, a bird that always seems to look most stupid! Also quite a few squawking Brown-headed Parrots, two Golden-breasted Buntings and, hitching a lift onthe first herd of Elephants we encountered, two Yellow-billed Oxpeckers (the only ones we were to see in Kruger). Didn't find most of the mouthwatering specialities that sometimes lurk here such as Eastern Nicator, Narina Trogon, Broad-billed Roller and White-breasted Cuckoo-Shrike. Still, couldn't complain - family herds of Elephants proved entertaining, plus saw quite a few more Nyala and, antelope of the day, the dainty Sharpe's Grysbok, three seen in total.
Back at camp, I positioned my night cam and retired for a long deserved sleep. The camera was to capture a real surprise...