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Sutherland Mini-Vacation 2013 - aka Handa was shut! (2 Viewers)

ClarkWGriswold

Carpe Carpum
Supporter
Wales
Day One

The next three days had been planned with military precision. Heck I'd even checked the weather forecast. Given the possibility of snow I decided that being over prepared would be better than under hence the Sambas were packed. The Vee Double Yuh Up had been booked. This should be a piece of cake.

6:10 a.m Alarm goes off
7:30 a.m the clan are all in the car washed and fed and on our way to the grandparents.
7:33 a.m Back to the house for the missing Lightening McQueen duvet and a Bucket o Soldiers. Uh oh. The wheels have come off already - bit of a spoiler in the title though

From here on it went fairly well apart from eating the most disgusting scrambled eggs I've ever had in Bristol Airport.

The route we took was the A9 up until the other side of Loch Fleet; the A839 to Lairg and then the A836 all the way to Tongue. Euro Car were very efficient. The Up was upgraded to an all singing, all dancing Volvo V60/70 D5 estate which had a surprising amount of poke and was extremely fuel efficient. Anyone taking this route should be aware that there wasn't a single greasy spoon along the whole length of the journey:-C

The weather was a mixture of heavy showers inter spaced with short dry spells and very blustery. As such I saw little value in scanning Cromarty Firth as the water was so choppy. We were able to add Common Gull however to the year list. A couple of Common Buzzards were close to the road but not much else. At Loch Fleet there were a decent amount of Eider, Goosander and Mergansers.

A few feral goats were alongside the A839 along with various thrushes, pipits etc.

At Loch Shin a few Swallows were skimming the water but the weather was not being helpful at all. Some Red Deer grazed in the fields at Altnaharra and there were heaps of Common Sandpipers alongside Loch Loyal. On arrival at Tongue the weather had broken sufficiently for us to stretch our legs by Talmine. This is a stunning area and was somewhere I always hoped to revisit. There was a solitary Sandwich Tern fishing the bay (year tick #2) and a Gannet further out (#3). A few Wheatears were around the beach along with some wagtails. Also a probable Merlin flew away over the hill but it was one of those views out of the corner of your eye where it's hard to be 100% certain.

Returning to the Tongue Hotel we stopped to scan the Kyle of Tongue and picked up Curlew, Redshank, Oystercatcher, Bonxie (#3), Red Throated Divers (#4) and Hooded Crow (#5).

The hotel itself was very comfortable. I can recommend the scallops and the Venison. In the room I reflected upon how much I enjoyed driving the Volvo and even thought the complimentary Sherry was palatable.............................. I went straight downstairs and had a couple of Jose Cuervos and pints of Bitter to bring me back to being 42 and not 142!:-O

I'll do day 2 tomorrow along with a couple of shockingly bad photos as I'm writing this from my I Pad. I also need an ID on a mammal if anyone can help?

TBC when I've had some sleep.

Rich
 
Cheers Ian. Tomorrow consists of a few regrets and some out of focus photos. I did manage a Manta where the boat leaves for Handa though.

Rich
 
Day One



At Loch Shin a few Swallows were skimming the water but the weather was not being helpful at all. Some Red Deer grazed in the fields at Altnaharra and there were heaps of Common Sandpipers alongside Loch Loyal. On arrival at Tongue the weather had broken sufficiently for us to stretch our legs by Talmine. This is a stunning area and was somewhere I always hoped to revisit. There was a solitary Sandwich Tern fishing the bay (year tick #2) and a Gannet further out (#3). A few Wheatears were around the beach along with some wagtails. Also a probable Merlin flew away over the hill but it was one of those views out of the corner of your eye where it's hard to be 100% certain.

Rich

Agree with you about Tongue - it is stunning isn't it. Did you try the hide at Dalchork (Lairg)?

Gordon
 
:-O Morning Gordon. The regrets were more to do with mixing Red Wine, Beer, Sherry and Tequila. Not even some decent haggis and strange square sausage could offset that mix;)

Rich
 
Rich said:
The route we took was the A9 up until the other side of Loch Fleet; the A839 to Lairg and then the A836 all the way to Tongue. Euro Car were very efficient. The Up was upgraded to an all singing, all dancing Volvo V60/70 D5 estate which had a surprising amount of poke and was extremely fuel efficient. Anyone taking this route should be aware that there wasn't a single greasy spoon along the whole length of the journey

Yes, the decision was taken at the time of upgrading the A9 (north from Perth) that there would be no road-side eateries, but 'boomerang' access to the towns and villages en route. There was deep concern that such places would discourage visitors from visiting with the resultant loss of trade.

Trouble is, at the moment, there are still some without easy access heading north (you have to cross the south bound carriageway. However, improvements have been made. Bankfoot is easy, with a lovely run after the village for a couple of miles (along the old A9) before re-joining. Dunkeld, is easy access south bound. Ballinluig (south of Pitlochry) has a good Motor Grill with good safe access now that a flyover has been built. Pitlochry itself has many varied eateries (very touristy) and easy access in and out.

Blair Atholl isn't good north bound and neither is the House of Bruar near Calvine. There's nothing after that till you get to Dalwhinnie (distillery there;))

When I say "access isn't good"; a quiet time of day is no problem but you can wait for what seems like hours to get a clear gap to cross both lanes (the road at Dunkeld & Birnam isn't dualled - yet- for instance) long streams of cars can be held up behind lorries and caravans.

Looking forward to part two Rich - sounds like a lovely short break.
 
Day 2

Handa here we come!:-C

Was up bright and early. We both polished off the breakfast knowing that we had a long day ahead. As mentioned in post #7 there are certain combinations of alcohol which are best avoided when driving along twisting, undulating roads. On a completely unrelated note;) the nearest public toilets to Tongue along the A838 are in Durness.

Behind the antiques dealer's car is the Kyle of Tongue with Ben Loyal in the distance I believe.

The second photo shows the twisty nature of the A838
 

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Day 2 contd.

Despite better weather we only connected with the usual pipits, greylags, Stock Dove?(#6) and wagtails. We cracked on through Durness hoping to maximise our time on Handa.

A few Wheatears were alongside the road as well a handful of Whimbrel alongside the Kyle of Durness.

Turning off the now A894 the weather was still holding off. Scattered light showers was the name of the day. Arctic Skua would be a lifer for me so I was really looking forward to the trip. And then..................:-C

The sign was up. Handa was shut/ closed/ not open. We were even too early for the decent looking restaurant where the ferry goes from. Ah well. We'll just have to make a return trip:t: The sea did look choppy so I'm guessing there would have been difficulty landing.

Scanning across the bay gave Shag, Eider and Guillemots (#7) and there was a cracking Manta parked in the carpark.
 

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Day 2 contd..

The unmarked road back to the A894 gave Stonechat and three of these (#8):
 

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Day 2 contd.

It basically hammered down for the rest of the trip down to Ullapool. There were plenty of Sandpipers at Scourie along with a diver on the loch that I couldn't quite nail down. I'd guess GND however given the size.

As we were now early we had Scallops in The Ferry Boat Inn for lunch which were very tasty before going for a nap in the hotel - The Arch Inn. It's great not having the children around:-O I can also recommend the Flying Scotsman Beer - a very decent pint.

The Arch Inn is in a great location and I'd recommend it to anyone looking to stay in Ullapool. It's situatued right on Loch Broom. The rooms are not big by any means but they are very clean. Looking out of our room gave Black Guillemot (#9) and Razorbills (#10) along with plenty of Shag.

The food was fantastic - Langoustines to start and slow cooked Ox Cheek to follow whilst very reasonably priced. The Langoustines are amongst the best I've ever tasted:eat:

Despite the disappointment of not going to Handa the combination of good beer, great food, fantastic driving roads, some decent birds and the most amazing scenery was making this a very enjoyable trip.

Rich
 

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I should apologise for the quality of the photos but I've only just had the SX50 and I'm still getting to grips with it. The light was also poor and it was very windy on occassion.

Below is one of the many beaches dotted along the A838
 

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Yes, the decision was taken at the time of upgrading the A9 (north from Perth) that there would be no road-side eateries, but 'boomerang' access to the towns and villages en route. There was deep concern that such places would discourage visitors from visiting with the resultant loss of trade.

Trouble is, at the moment, there are still some without easy access heading north (you have to cross the south bound carriageway. However, improvements have been made. Bankfoot is easy, with a lovely run after the village for a couple of miles (along the old A9) before re-joining. Dunkeld, is easy access south bound. Ballinluig (south of Pitlochry) has a good Motor Grill with good safe access now that a flyover has been built. Pitlochry itself has many varied eateries (very touristy) and easy access in and out.

Blair Atholl isn't good north bound and neither is the House of Bruar near Calvine. There's nothing after that till you get to Dalwhinnie (distillery there;))

When I say "access isn't good"; a quiet time of day is no problem but you can wait for what seems like hours to get a clear gap to cross both lanes (the road at Dunkeld & Birnam isn't dualled - yet- for instance) long streams of cars can be held up behind lorries and caravans.

Looking forward to part two Rich - sounds like a lovely short break.

Thanks for the info. Delia. I'll print this off before June's trip:t: We only joined the A9 at Inverness so could have branched off to Tain I guess.


Rich
 
Day 3

Up bright and early again. Had breakfast at 8 then hit the road by 9. Was due to be back at Inverness Airport by 12. Made good progress along the A835 so was bak to Inverness in approx. an hour. In all honesty this was always my plan. We headed straight for Dores and the B862 making our way to Loch Ruthven.

The road over gave Red Legged Partridge (#11) and Lapwings, Pipits, Brown Hare, Roe Deer etc. On arrival at Loch Ruthven there were a few cars present. I could hear Willow Warblers and the first views of the loch gave Dabchicks and Tufties. We then walked down to the hide and were rewarded with amazing views of a pair of Slavonian Grebes (#12) - of course I had left my camera in the car:eek!: Thanks to the birder who gave us better views with his scope. I hate going to hides, seeing the bird and rushing off. Unfortunately given our departure time we had to do just that.

Back at the car park a couple more birders were there. Of course we were a couple of minutes late for a male Hen Harrier and Osprey. :-CThe Hen Harrier had been over the ridge of the hill behind the hide if that makes any sense?

From Loch Ruthven we headed over the Farr Mountain Road in the hope of some raptors. Unfortunately we didn't anything like the time to do this road justice. We had decent views of a couple of Red Grouse (#13), Whimbrel and Mistle Thrush. We also - well my wife who has fantastic eyesight picked it out from the moving car!! - saw a Mountain Hare. Thanks to Mike on the mammal thread for confirmation.

We now had no time to head further up the valley but fortunately we'll be returning in June. The hire car was fuelled and we dropped it off at 12:15.

On entering the airport a lone Red Kite flew over.

Like I mentioned earlier I can thoroughly recommend the Tongue Hotel and The Arch Inn for anyone looking to stay in the area. We passed a heap of campsites in great locations for those with tents etc.

All the best and stroll on June:king:

Rich
 

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The second photo shows the twisty nature of the A838

Oh that's easy.... you can see for miles!!! ;)

A great report this one Rich, thanks.
 
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