Day 5 - 28th April 2014 : The Long March
The day dawned bright and sunny and my first thought was to try the Tahan hide at first light, skipping breakfast. The Tahan hide is a two storey building located just 50m from the Mutiara resort and indeed I'd asked for a villa close to the entrance to this hide and the 'Loop'.
The problem with the hide is it is located too far from the actual clearing in front of it. The clearing being ca. 60m x 100m wide with the hide recessed 50m into the jungle and therefore 70-80m from the two fig trees in the centre of the clearing and 100-110m from the trees at the back and sides of the clearing. Clearly not close enough for decent photography (even at 600mm) and only just acceptable for the only other guy I ever saw there, with a scope.
After 30 mins and with no-one else in the area, I grabbed a long stick and fought my way through the over head high reeds into the boggy clearing. The hordes of mosquitoes loved me - breakfast !
However this was much better, despite the ankle deep boggy water. First to show was a beautifully defined Lanceolated Warbler, tail cocked, it stayed hidden until a little phishing drew it out, curiosity getting the better of it !
I then worked my way through the marsh and stood with my back to one of the fig trees. A Black-thighed Falconet (one of the world's smallest) was busily taking butterflies and moths and screaming low across a pool of water, 10m from where I stood, to take insects above it. It even landed not 5m from me in the tree I had my back on.
A little later the BTF was joined in a bare tree, on the edge of the clearing, by a complaining, noisy (aren't they all !) Long Billed Spiderhunter who carefully worked his way up, over and then level with the Falconet before launching the chase. They flew from tree to tree until the Falconet must have had enough and turned the tables, now chasing the Spiderhunter deep into the surrounding forest. That was fun !
A pair of Asian Fairy Bluebirds - coruscating wildy in flight in the early morning light - sat still glimmering upon landing at the edge of the clearing (surprisingly far more beautiful than the guidebooks would have us believe) and Long Tailed Parakeets flew over on their way from their roosts to wherever their daily routine takes them. Then a Black-naped Monarch sat and cherry-picked the juiciest flying insects from a tree at the back of the clearing - I'm glad I had moved to sit under the fig trees otherwise this bird would have been hardly visible from the hide. Bulbuls, Large-billed Crows and Drongos completed the couple of hours early morning bird-fest and this was to prove, in numbers at least, the most productive time/location of the day. Despite copious amounts of Insect Repellent and a very very thin camouflage hoodie, these Draculean mosquitoes were determined to get their pound of flesh so it was time to beat a hasty retreat.
That morning I'd decided to take the trail that follows the flow of the Sungai Tahan (tributary to the Sungai Tembeleng) to the Bumbun Tabing & Bumbun Cegar Anjing hides (you need to wade across the river at this point - if it's low enough, more on that later !) but the signposting was poor (a Ranger I spoke to later admitting I was by far the first to miss the turning and made a note to have the signpost adjusted) and I ended up going inland towards & past the turning to Jenut Muda, instead of following the river, which turned into 'up hill and down dale', before a couple of hours down the trail I decided enough was enough. Hot, humid, relatively bird-less and with more of the mosquito hordes every time I stopped for a few seconds, I back-tracked to a tiny stream I had passed, not more than a trickle with a few pools maybe 1 foot (30cms) deep, which was also by one of the only 'tiny clearings' I had seen along the way.
A good place was found, relatively mosquito-free, to just sit by the stream, in hope of kingfishers and whatever else happened by, whilst sipping on cool water (it had originally been ice-cold, although now a little warmer, though the backpack camel bladder was still doing a reasonable job) and munching on the high energy snacks I'd brought along.
Remember 1 litre of water = 1 kilo and you need plenty of water in a hot ( temperature varied from 34C to 37C), humid, rainforest. Most trails are, for the slow-moving (and often stationary) birder, going to take 4 - 8hrs or more, so you will need 2-3 litres of water (adding 2-3kgs to your backpack) and there are no local stores to top up your supply in the jungle !
This change of tactic soon paid off, whilst even a funereal pace on the trail had not proved fruitful. Small birds appeared in the nearby bushes, one Ferruginous Babbler peeking around a branch at me from no more than 2 feet away (ca. 65cm). Drongos, Bulbuls, Sunbirds and Spiderhunters all landing close by too.
The highlights were still to come though. A whoosh and a stunning Black-bellied Malkoha had landed not 10m away. Carefully surveying its new surroundings it started to jump from branch to branch ...... coming ever nearer until just 5m away.
15 mins later there was a tiny glittering airborne streak of jewel-like magnificence that deemed to honour me with it's presence, landing not 7m away but was screened from my view by a stream-side bush. Carefully manoeuvring until I could get a clearish view through a gap in the leaves my bins alighted on a minuscule but exquisite Rufous-backed Kingfisher. Spectacular bird !
That excitement over I gave the kingfisher another 15 mins after it's departure to see if it would return as they often do. It didn't but a very intriguing call was coming from across the stream and maybe 50m away. I taped it and played back the call. It responded so I replayed the call again. This went on for 15 mins with gaps here and there until eventually I thought it was in a gully just ahead of me. So, dropping my backpack, I went off-piste hoping to get even just a glimpse of my 'admirer/competition' ! In the end very disappointingly I didn't but the tape of this call will be nevertheless attached below shortly.
The hike back to the Mutiara was pretty uneventful, I even checked out Lubok Simphon as I passed the river bathing area, for a 30 minute detour. The shallow, rust coloured, river (minerals in the soil in the surrounding area gives the Tahan tributary it's very distinctive colour) was however very quiet bar a couple of French Lovebirds frolicking in the water (another tick perhaps) ?
Back in my chalet I showered, drunk another 1/2 litre of cold water and cooled down by sucking on the sweet syrupy ice sticks I'd picked up in passing the Mutiara general store.
About ready to hit the trails again the heavens opened ... and then opened a little more. Plans curtailed I enjoyed the A/C whilst grabbing a couple of hours of shut-eye. Waking at 17.45 the rain was easing and I prepared to hit the 'Loop' for the last hour or so of birding light. From 18.15 to dusk at 19.30 I birded this boardwalk, the highlight being a Chestnut-breasted Malkoha and a Crested Serpent Eagle that alighted not 15m away before immediately taking off again after noting my presence.
That evening I took the 1 Ringgit ferry ride across the river and enjoyed an excellent Malaysian dinner of Beef Kuey Teow (soft, flat, noodles), mixed vegetables and Ginger Chicken followed by Lemon & Sugar pancakes, all washed down with a couple of iced Lime Juices ... and all for about the same price as two coffees in the Mutiara, i.e. about £1 per dish !
The restaurants are always busy with foreign & locals alike but dominated by back-packers enjoying the various activities that NKS (travel & activity specialist) and other similar companies organise. There is a NKS desk open in the evenings on the 3rd Floating Restaurant counting from the left (looks like there are 4 or 5 in total) at which you can book your boat and shuttle bus back to Jelantut and from there back to KL or on to places such as Cameron Highlands / Selangor / Penang etc.
The rat continued our burgeoning friendship by visiting me twice that evening, once also it seems having invited a mouse to join us (the mouse wasn't very social though, scampering off quickly and refusing to make eye-contact) whilst there was a near permanent insect assault on my lights going on from the swarm of flying things-of-the-night now encamped in my room, and the squirrels were continuing their nightly dance practice by waltzing or sambaing, or chasing each other madly, across the tin roof.
I'd not long fallen asleep when again those snorting sounds from outside stirred my slumber & my curiosity, eventually quelled by the sight of the same wild pigs, who squealed loudly and ran back into the forest once caught in the beam of my spotlight, which attracted yet another wave of airborne suicidal insect commandoes determined to follow me the moment I stepped back inside off the terrace.
42 Species
Babbler, Ferruginous #
Babbler, Sooty-capped #
Bluebird, Asian Fairy #
Broadbill, Black & Red
Bulbul, Black-headed #
Bulbul, Hairy-backed #
Bulbul, Red-eyed #
Bulbul, Stripe-throated #
Crow, Large-billed
Cuckoo-Shrike, Bar-bellied #
Drongo, Lesser Racquet-tailed
Drongo, Greater Racquet-tailed #
Eagle, Crested Serpent #
Egret, Little
Falconet, Black-thighed #
Flycatcher, Japanese Paradise
Kingfisher, Rufous-backed #
Magpie-Robin, Oriental
Malkoha, Chestnut-bellied #
Malkoha, Chestnut-breasted #
Monarch, Black-naped
Myna, Javan #
Parakeet, Long-tailed #
Pigeon, Green (spp)
Sharma, White-rumped
Sparrow, Tree
Spider-hunter, Little
Spider-hunter, Long-billed
Sunbird, Purple-naped
Swiftlet, Germain's
Swift, Whiskered
Warbler, Lanceolated (great little bird)!
Woodpecker, Buff-rumped #
TBC : 1 tape
Gibbon, White-faced (heard not seen)
Lizard, Monitor (3)
Macaque, Pig-tailed
Squirrel, Giant
Squirrel, Plaintail
Leeches #4 & 5 & 6 (leg x2 & body)
I'm attaching some maps here which may be of assistance to some !
1. Fraser Hill
2 Taman Nagara Hide Map.
3&5 Taman Nagara Trails
4. The Mutiara (I think I was in Villa #96)
#3 has been updated by other birders - namely AW (I'll check to find out who AW is, and which report I found his map attached to, so I can fully credit him) !