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Can't decide! (1 Viewer)

Sirpotato

Well-known member
Australia
Hi everyone,

I'd like to do some photos of birds for ID reasons but I'm not sure the best way to go.

I've got a Celestron 65ED and some various binoculars. I'm not sure if just getting a phone adaptor for the scope would suffice or whether getting a small used mirrorless camera would be better to attach like a Lumix G85 or Olympus E-M10 mkii or even an Olympus TG6?

I suppose those options would also allow me to do photos of other things too like macros.

Or would buying a Nikon P1000 be the best option of all?
 
The deciding factor is your tolerance for carrying stuff.
Simplest is to use your phone on the binocular lens, takes practice to aim things properly, but is fast, flexible and minimal cost. You don't really need a phone adapter, although a good one sure makes things easier. Adding a camera to the mix seems overkill to me, the main benefit is improved image quality, which is superfluous for most ID cases, at the expense of hauling extra stuff.
The Nikon is a monster, it is really a stabilized 77mm spotting scope with a sensor attached, serious overkill for ID photos unless you're scanning the next time zone for rarities. It will of course also serve nicely as a replacement for your Celestron and tripod, so perhaps the most flexible (and expensive) option.
 
The deciding factor is your tolerance for carrying stuff.
Simplest is to use your phone on the binocular lens, takes practice to aim things properly, but is fast, flexible and minimal cost. You don't really need a phone adapter, although a good one sure makes things easier. Adding a camera to the mix seems overkill to me, the main benefit is improved image quality, which is superfluous for most ID cases, at the expense of hauling extra stuff.
The Nikon is a monster, it is really a stabilized 77mm spotting scope with a sensor attached, serious overkill for ID photos unless you're scanning the next time zone for rarities. It will of course also serve nicely as a replacement for your Celestron and tripod, so perhaps the most flexible (and expensive) option.
Thanks mate, weight is a bit of a decider for me, I have a spinal cord injury in my neck so makes most things hard to carry for long periods. I have a carbon fiber tripod so that makes carrying the scope easier and I have a pair of IS binoculars which help the shake I get because if my injury.

Can you recommend any phone adaptors that are half decent?

I also considered a Olympus TG6 to use instead of the phone as I believe the macro capability is pretty good on this too. Not sure if it would be any good for digiscoping though!?
 
The TG6 gets high marks for its optics and would certainly serve for digiscoping as well. I don't know what adapter would be best with it though.
I use a MagviewGear adapter to fit a Samsung Note 10 to an ED50 scope, but there are many other options, often written up here on BF. The adapters are often pretty product specific though, camera shape and eye piece diameter variations make for lots of incompatibilities.
I used to have a Brunton universal adapter, superbly flexible, but a real pain to set up as well as bulky and super heavy. It was built for the ages, but not for convenience.
It may be heresy, but I'm also considering your P1000 alternative and saying goodbye to tripods and scopes. The slightly smaller and rather lighter P950 is probably the most convenient version, less reach but also less bulk.
 
I've arthritis in my lower spine causing sciatica (waiting to be called for an op), so I can't walk long distances any more, let alone carry weights.

My solution is to use a wheely shopping bag (a roomy one). Works a treat unless you're walking through heather or on softy sandy or pebbly beaches.

You may feel odd at the start, but walk with confidence and no-one bats an eye. Mine takes my lunch camera, scope and tripod. Some bird food if wanted and my phone and wallet.

I have a Nikon Coolpix P900, which works great for ID purposes... look in my Gallery Media added by delia todd

What's great is... very distant birds (too far for my 10x bins) I can take a picture on full zoom (as long as I've something to support me - a friend's shoulder will do, or lean against a tree). In fact a series of 7. Then look on the wee screen and zoom in on that. Often this enable me to work out what it is. If not, downloading onto my computer when I get home can make things clearer.

My point on this is that the P900 isn't as heavy as the P1000, if you can get one.

Sorry... didn't meant to waffle on so much.
 
From my experience with superzoom cameras to date (Nikon P900) , I would not give up my scope for one of them.

That camera is ok for taking pictures of things that are easy to see: stationary/ big/ not too far away/ good visibility and contrast.

However, if you want to get onto something that is moving, is small, is far away, has low contrast, is camouflaged, is sitting in a tree or bush, or is part of a flock then this camera's viewfinder tends to cause problems.

My experience often went like this: Look at something interesting with the bins. Change to the scope and get onto it no problem. Decide to take a picture with the P900, but cannot get on to it. Go back to the bins or scope. Try to memorize landmarks to aim for. Change to the P900 again: still can't find it......
I got so frustrated that I set up a rig to mount scope and camera parallel so that my scope was essentially acting as viewfinder for the blooming camera.

If your target isn't moving and you manage to get on to it and take a picture then that will be ok for ID purposes. But if you have a scope already and you are bringing it then you can have that cheaper by getting an adapter for your phone.

Now if you want to travel light and not bring a scope at all, then maybe the camera will serve your purpose, but with the above (IMHO significant) limitations. It does also have a rather slow zoom. If I was in the market for a superzoom, I think I would look at Sony's offering.

just my 2 cents.

I have moved on to a mirrorless camera. And kept my scope.
 
Yes, I would agree that the camera is never going to stand in for the telescope, for visual observation. On the other hand, I find I can usually locate a distant bird in the camera by starting with no zoom and then gradually bringing the object closer. You need to use the optical viewfinder rather than the LCD screen, though. Works for me.
 
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I don't use the screen for taking photos, only for previewing them afterwards. I've never been able to use the screen for taking pictures, whatever camera I've had, can't control the shakes that way. Only time I did was way back when digiscoping. I rarely use my scope now - big Leica apo 77 which I used for digiscoping. Eventually got frustrated with that, as I was really wanting to photograph a Treecreeper and found it impossible to follow them round a tree, hence my move to the more portable bridge cameras. Really happy with this one.

There's a button on it which helps you to find a bird you've lost in trees or bushes (or anywhere for that matter). It's on the side of the camera. Press it and it cancels the zoom, then zooms in on what it thinks is a bird... more than 50% of the time it's right. If I find it tricky to focus on a bird due to intervening twigs and branches, barbed wire etc, I simply move the auto selection wheel to Landscape mode... problem sorted. Had that problem just today, when trying to get a woodpecker on the side of a tree trunk and the was a large gate post in the way on the right and a closer tree on the left leaving just a narrow gap to get through, plus twigs and things. Bird focused no probs.

I've been able to identify a bird by taking a picture on full zoom, then zooming in on the screen, which I've not been able to work out using the 'scope.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. I did more research this week and think I might get one of those phone digicam adapters. I saw one called Phonecam from the US (may take awhile to get to Australia!) that I think looked good! I've been trying to just hold my phone to my scope and surprisingly got some nice images enough for what I'd need.

Maybe if I go this route I can eventually save up for Kowa or Swarovski 😁!
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. I did more research this week and think I might get one of those phone digicam adapters. I saw one called Phonecam from the US (may take awhile to get to Australia!) that I think looked good! I've been trying to just hold my phone to my scope and surprisingly got some nice images enough for what I'd need.

Maybe if I go this route I can eventually save up for Kowa or Swarovski 😁!
I got one PHONECAM adaptor for my Iphone XR. I am using it with my two different scopes. That works ok because the eyepiece diameter is adjustable and the clamping is good/firm enough. Actually mine (I am in in Europe) had been shipped from Sweden.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. I did more research this week and think I might get one of those phone digicam adapters. I saw one called Phonecam from the US (may take awhile to get to Australia!) that I think looked good! I've been trying to just hold my phone to my scope and surprisingly got some nice images enough for what I'd need.

Maybe if I go this route I can eventually save up for Kowa or Swarovski 😁!
OK, sounds like you are sorted. On the subject of scopes, though, one strange feature that many of them have is that when you zoom them out the field of view reduces. I've never understood why anyone would design a zoom eyepiece like that, since zooming out by reducing the apparent field size doesn't help in any way. Anyone understand the reason(s)?
 
I am having the one that uses a "tailored" phone case (i.e. for my Iphone model), not the "universal" one in your link above. And yes, mine does work well. So no fiddleing or adjusting required, only screwing on/off the adaptor.
Awesome, glad it works well :)
 
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