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ZEISS DTI thermal imaging cameras. For more discoveries at night, and during the day.

Nikkor 600mm AFS II (2 Viewers)

The D7000 is the best DX Nikon yet. It does pretty much everything the D300s does and then some though I am not yet confident about its AF speed for birds in flight. It also shoots 14bit RAW files MUCH faster. I wish it had an AF-on button though as I have grown used to it on the D300s. But all the latest Nikon supertele's have it too so I could adapt. Bottom line if you want a new DX partner for your D3, the D7000 should be your choice over a D300s.
 
I disagree the fact that it doesn't have an AF-on button shows where it sits in the line up as with the fact that is takes SD cards not CF. There will be a D400 (or whatever its called) with controls and layout to line up with the D3 range so photographers swapping bodies have continuity. When I grab my daughters D90 I struggle to find controls instantly cos its so different from the D300.
Nikon will revamp the entry level pro-sumer model with the later CCD and AF with the same control layout as the D3xx.
If you have a D200, 300, 300s wait a while
 
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Ok just a quick update, I have been using both the D3s and D300s withthe 600mm and 1.4x converter. If I compare images from both cameras of the same subject/distance the image quality of the D3s is way above that of the D300s. What I am trying to get accross in my experience with both these camera's if you take the same picture and crop it say 50%, then more often than not the resultant image from the D3s is superior even though the D300s has more pixels in theory closer to the subject. (more noisy pixels in my opinion) For this reason I always use the D3s FF sensor in preference to the extra reach of the D300s 1.5x sensor.
 
Ok just a quick update, I have been using both the D3s and D300s withthe 600mm and 1.4x converter. If I compare images from both cameras of the same subject/distance the image quality of the D3s is way above that of the D300s. What I am trying to get accross in my experience with both these camera's if you take the same picture and crop it say 50%, then more often than not the resultant image from the D3s is superior even though the D300s has more pixels in theory closer to the subject. (more noisy pixels in my opinion) For this reason I always use the D3s FF sensor in preference to the extra reach of the D300s 1.5x sensor.

Nice to know you are happy with the D3s+600 mm AF-SII. Just a question: Have you made AF-tune on both cameras with your 600+TC combo?
In the past I had reversed results (in relation to yours) with my 600+TCs, D3 vs. D300; but after careful af-tune tests I found heavy backfocus in my D3, and a slight one in the D300. After both cameras+lens/TC were calibrated, I noticed similar results, but obviously better noise and dynamic range for D3.
 
VR version of Nikon 500/600mm is actually not about VR at all. The VR version 500/600mm just outperforms the older non-VR lens in terms of IQ (VR or not is irrelevant).

500mm f4 is a good choice if you want light weight (with lighter tripod/head gear) and hand-holding occationally. If however, what you want are reach and IQ and don't care about weight that much, the 600mm VR with a D3s is the best combination.

I am not rich enough to own the 600mm VR, so now I am using a Sigma 800mm f5.6 which is just as good as the 600mm VR with a 1.4x. However, IQ degrades faster when light becomes dim.

Gimbal head is good for BIF, but the use of fluid head will allow you to use slow shutter speed down to 1/125s to get a sharp picture for static birds, this way you don't need to push up ISO in poor light conditions.

I use a heavy (3kg) Manfrotto head 504HD for both BIF and static birds. When shooting BIF it is just as smooth as any gimbal head. When shooting static/perch birds, it allows the use of slow shutter down to 1/125s such that you need not always push up ISO under dim light, especially for cameras less capable of ISO performance (say, D300).

The downside is that Manfrotto 504HD is heavy. If you are rich enough, you may consider to buy a Sachtler FSB 8 fluid head (around USD1800) for both smooth BIF and slow shutter perch birds.
 
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Gitzo 3531LSV has a 75mm bowl for use with a pro video head. Gitzo 3530LS has a conventional "flat top" but in all other respects, it is much like the 3531LSV.
 
Kenny,

Thanks for your explanations. I have a questions. What's the differences between Gitzo GT3530LS and GT3531LSV for 500mm f4 ?

gergrd is right. They both are the same tripod but with a different interface to the head. GT3531LS uses a pin-type flat-top for usual ball heads and some fluid heads. While GT3531LSV is equipped with a 75mm ball-type interface for pro video heads.

If you purchased GT3530LS but you need to use it for a pro video head, you can always purchase a 75mm ball-type adapter to replace the flat-top interface, and vice versa.
 
...The VR version 500/600mm just outperforms the older non-VR lens in terms of IQ (VR or not is irrelevant).
...

Can you present a link or test images that comprove your statment?
How much the VR version "outperforms" older non VR versions IQ (AF-I, AF-S and AF-SII)?
Thanks.
 
gergrd is right. They both are the same tripod but with a different interface to the head. GT3531LS uses a pin-type flat-top for usual ball heads and some fluid heads. While GT3531LSV is equipped with a 75mm ball-type interface for pro video heads.

If you purchased GT3530LS but you need to use it for a pro video head, you can always purchase a 75mm ball-type adapter to replace the flat-top interface, and vice versa.

Means I still can use my Gimbal head by Jobu BW Pro on the GT3531LSV ?
 
Jason,

If you buy the Gitzo GT3531LSV (which comes with the 75mm bowl top), you would need to get a Gitzo G-449 Circular Camera Adapter to mount your gimbal head. The G-449 is relatively inexpensive. Conversely, if you get the GT3530S and want to mount a pro video head (with a half-bowl base) you would need to buy a Gitzo GS5320V75 adapter. The GS5320V75 adapter is about 3 - 4 times the price of a G-449.
 
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