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Swaro 80HD with 20-60x e/p; which camera? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jogresh
- Start date
oggbad
Well-known member
Sounds like a question close to my heart Mike. I have been using mine with a UCA, Canon 50D and 50mm f1.2 (or without the eyepiece and a TLS 800) and I feel I could do better. I have thought about the Canon 7D but I could probably do a lot better and cheaper. TBH there are a lot of compromises which, coupled to my general forgetfulness and incompetence lead to a lot of disappointments. I am currently doing better with my 100-400 lens and getting closer (sound advice from Dale)
So I will join you if I can Mike, in asking for any other solutions.
So I will join you if I can Mike, in asking for any other solutions.
Hello Mike,
I digiscope with the Swaro 80HD but with the 25-50x eyepeice. I'm quite pleased with the results I get with my now discontinued Sony W300. I see you can still get them on Ebay 2nd hand and reconditioned. The main thing you'll be looking for is a zoom lens of between 3-4x magnification. These are getting harder to find now-a-days as the manufacturers are making more higher zoom lenses.
All the best
Gary
I digiscope with the Swaro 80HD but with the 25-50x eyepeice. I'm quite pleased with the results I get with my now discontinued Sony W300. I see you can still get them on Ebay 2nd hand and reconditioned. The main thing you'll be looking for is a zoom lens of between 3-4x magnification. These are getting harder to find now-a-days as the manufacturers are making more higher zoom lenses.
All the best
Gary
dantheman
Bah humbug
6.3MpMiddle of the road, but the big advantage of this camera is that it is very good at low light levels (higher ISO or something);- better than more recent models. This means you have more chance of a decent picture when you're trying to get a picture through both a scope and in often less than ideal light conditions (ie on cloudy days or earlier or later in the day).
jogresh
Bimble and patch
From what i've gleaned, ISO settings should be kept as low as poss, not sure why, perhaps to reduce graininess, although can't see the point if you get a photo that's too dark, surely better to get a grainy light record shot than an ungrainy dark one? As i say, i don't have a feckin clue about all this!
What's it like for vignetting? You use it on a Nikon 50 ED? Does that mean vignetting will be very different to an 80mm scope? Guess it's related to width of eyepiece - or exit pupil??
What's it like for vignetting? You use it on a Nikon 50 ED? Does that mean vignetting will be very different to an 80mm scope? Guess it's related to width of eyepiece - or exit pupil??
I use the Canon S90....and get good results with my Swaro 80. I have also used the Fuji 30 as suggested here but feel that technology of 2006 has been surpassed by the Canon or similar units in the PS category now.
A few things that have improved since the Fuji 30 days. First, the fuji has no histogram. This is a huge loss and I found that by moving to the S90, I have much better shots as I have the histogram to guide me.
Second,...the Canon has a magnifier when you press the shutter down half way. This allows the spot I want focused to be magnified allowing me to further focus from a close up point of view. I find this really important in overall image quality for digiscoping.
Digiscoping is cumbersome.... When I use a camera such as a 40D plus lens....it is heavier and the more weight you have on the back of the scope, the more cumbersome it is to take a shot and frankly, I don't think images done with a camera plus 50mm lens is any better.
Images vs digiscoping can look super when compared to cameras and lens set up (non-digiscoping). But, noise is an issue and you will find that when viewing at 100%, the camera will win out every time. But if you are looking for 4 x 6 type photos or even viewing on the web, the digiscope is equal in those cases. Digiscoping is not designed to sell photos with super high quality as a camera plus lens...so realize that ahead of time.
Frames per Second....is one of the only advantages I see in a camera such as a 40 or 50d or even the 7D... For example, my Canon 40 D plus lens as a fps of 5-7 pics per second while the Canon S90 is more like 1.5 .... For birding that is a huge issue.
But....one intangible that comes into play is that when digiscoping, I find I do more 'birding' as I really have to pay attention to the bird, follow it...predict movement of bird etc.... unlike a camera where I just find a bird and start clicking away with the rapid FPS and eventually come up with a good photo. Again, this is intangible and something I take into account.
Digiscoping is not for fast or hyper birds. It is not for birding where you are trying to find a lot of different birds so if you are in a birding hotspot like Ecuador or costa rica etc...stick with a camera and forget the digiscoping as you will be disappointed.
I have also tried the canon SD1200 series ...which is now SD 1400 I believe. Those work too and are a good investment for only $160 or so.... The S95 now sells for close to $400. But quality is better....
A few things that have improved since the Fuji 30 days. First, the fuji has no histogram. This is a huge loss and I found that by moving to the S90, I have much better shots as I have the histogram to guide me.
Second,...the Canon has a magnifier when you press the shutter down half way. This allows the spot I want focused to be magnified allowing me to further focus from a close up point of view. I find this really important in overall image quality for digiscoping.
Digiscoping is cumbersome.... When I use a camera such as a 40D plus lens....it is heavier and the more weight you have on the back of the scope, the more cumbersome it is to take a shot and frankly, I don't think images done with a camera plus 50mm lens is any better.
Images vs digiscoping can look super when compared to cameras and lens set up (non-digiscoping). But, noise is an issue and you will find that when viewing at 100%, the camera will win out every time. But if you are looking for 4 x 6 type photos or even viewing on the web, the digiscope is equal in those cases. Digiscoping is not designed to sell photos with super high quality as a camera plus lens...so realize that ahead of time.
Frames per Second....is one of the only advantages I see in a camera such as a 40 or 50d or even the 7D... For example, my Canon 40 D plus lens as a fps of 5-7 pics per second while the Canon S90 is more like 1.5 .... For birding that is a huge issue.
But....one intangible that comes into play is that when digiscoping, I find I do more 'birding' as I really have to pay attention to the bird, follow it...predict movement of bird etc.... unlike a camera where I just find a bird and start clicking away with the rapid FPS and eventually come up with a good photo. Again, this is intangible and something I take into account.
Digiscoping is not for fast or hyper birds. It is not for birding where you are trying to find a lot of different birds so if you are in a birding hotspot like Ecuador or costa rica etc...stick with a camera and forget the digiscoping as you will be disappointed.
I have also tried the canon SD1200 series ...which is now SD 1400 I believe. Those work too and are a good investment for only $160 or so.... The S95 now sells for close to $400. But quality is better....
RoyH
Well-known member
I used the Nikon Coolpix 995 with that scope, I was quite successful but went DSLR back in 2005. I still have that camera if your interested, pity just recently sold the eyepiece adaptor for that eye piece..its going cheap, please PM if interested. Tri-pod head stability is the main problem with digiscoping. You would be able to purchase an eye piece adaptor from London Camera Exchange...I can email you some images....
Good luck,
Roy.
DMKSlater
Well-known member
I use a Panasonic Lumix G1 with STS 8o HD with the 25-60 zoom. And must admit have had some brilliant results, have a look at my blogspot and web page gallery to see some of the results.
Agreed it has made me bird in a completely different way and take time to study even very common birds.
Dave
Agreed it has made me bird in a completely different way and take time to study even very common birds.
Dave
MJB
Well-known member
Dave
I use a Swarovski ATS 65 HD with 20-50 zoom. Would the Lumix G1 model work as well with this scope? Ideally, I would like to find some equivalent camera whose lens rim could rest on the Swarovski rubber eye-piece...
MJB
MJB
Well-known member
DMK
Much appreciated! I'll be checking the Lumix G2 out when next I get to Norwich, North Norfolk generally having less snow than Scotland...
MJB
DMKSlater
Well-known member
As a PS to the last entry, I use the Swaro DCA that screws directly onto you camera lense. I have the old style scope which means I have to unscrew the rubber eyepiece to fit on the DCA, I think the new style eye pieces dont require this.
Also when trying out the camera on the scope I use the 14-45mm lense and set the camera to : aspect ratio 16:9
top dial on camera to "P"
ex opt zoom "on"
and digital zoom at x2 or x4 (i prefer x2)
Keeps vignetting to a minimum and if you do get it increase/decrease the amount of zoom you have got on the camera lense...... or you can just buy the 20mm pancake lense (too dear for me at present)
It's all trial and error tho!
Hope this helps
Dave
Also when trying out the camera on the scope I use the 14-45mm lense and set the camera to : aspect ratio 16:9
top dial on camera to "P"
ex opt zoom "on"
and digital zoom at x2 or x4 (i prefer x2)
Keeps vignetting to a minimum and if you do get it increase/decrease the amount of zoom you have got on the camera lense...... or you can just buy the 20mm pancake lense (too dear for me at present)
It's all trial and error tho!
Hope this helps
Dave
Baron Birder
Well-known member
Still using my fuji f31d with the swaro and getting good results.
squidge
Wha Whassssat
Like yourself I'm a complete novice when it comes too digiscoping, I have the swaro atm80hd 30x and 20x60. I recently bought the nikon p6000 and from just taking everyday pics it is an excellent camera. My 20x60 is off getting repaired and I'm still waiting for an adapter tube too arrive from Hong Kong too connect with the swaro dca adapter. So I have'nt really started digiscoping yet but that is the set up I will be using. Cant wait too start as the recent snow would have given some great shots. Ger.
MJB
Well-known member
Dave,
I've been to Warehouse Express in Norwich with the scope & tripod. I was able to try a host of cameras for hand-holding while digiscoping, and the one that was by far the best was the Panasonic Lumix TZ10. Unfortunately, it's not cheap, but the diameter of the extended lens barrel just fits into the Swarovski 25-50 zoom eyepiece while resting on the eyepiece lens surround - no chance of touching the eyepiece glass. The fit is tight enough to act as an additional support, and the resolution at about 2-3 times camera zoom even at 50 times scope zoom was unbelievable. I hope this helps anyone with this eyepiece.
MJB
Bob Philpott
Well-known member
MJB I have an old Canon which I am considering changing. I originally was looking at the Lx3/5 but am intigued with the TZ10 which offers the option of a good distance/travel camera as well. The purist would say you cant use this camera because of the 12x zoom. How do you overcome this, could this be fitted to an adaptor or is hand holding the best bet.
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