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Where premium quality meets exceptional value. ZEISS Conquest HDX.

Desperately seeking advice: MHG vs Conquest vs SFL (10x) (1 Viewer)

SFL 8x40 Digibin

For those who own the SFL, does it show this much edge softening in real life? The close up views at the start of the video look superb but when you get to, say, 2:10 - that's nearly half of those birds out of focus, the ones at the edge very badly so. Seems like a smaller sweet spot than I was expecting. Is Conquest similar?

MHG looks better to me in this respect, though perhaps the resolution in the centre isn't quite up to the SFL.

Not sure of what to make of these once you're adding in the camera's optics.
 
Is it so hard for one manufacturer to put the MHG's FOV in a Trinovid build with Conquest brightness/sharpness at the same price point?
As to price point, I wonder whether there's a dealer in Oz left with a discontinued 10x42 HT or SLC they'd like to sell at a discount. And Paul has mentioned the EL sale. (I have the SLC which is also excellent.)
 
I don't own the SFL, but one thing I've found is that edge performance, or rather perceived edge performance, can depend on your eyes' accommodation ability. I have an 8x30 Binuxit porro from the 1950s and although I know its edge performance is, objectively, not great (especially by modern standards), when I look around the field of view, most of it is at least usably sharp. I also notice something similar when using my Swift 766, which has an even wider field of view - although for some reason the sweet spot (or perceived sweet spot) seems larger when observing over shorter distances.

I think my eyes have greater accommodation when viewing without glasses than with. But unfortunately I have some astigmatism in my left eye which makes it difficult to tweak the left barrel to ultimate sharpness. Glasses correct this, but I can't use my old porros with them: they have to be viewed straight to my eyes. If my astigmatism worsens I fear I shall have to sell them on. Which is a shame as I do enjoy using them.
 
Would it cost an outrageous sum to have an optician grind up lenses to put over your occulars?

Is there enough eye relief?

Find out before you let them go.
 
I figured the easiest way to test the weight would be to hang my Monarchs around my neck inside the case and go for a long walk. Altogether it comes to just over the weight of the Conquests alone.

Have any of the eyecup issues been addressed in recently produced Conquests? Either the stiffness in twisting in/out or the need for extended eyecups? I have at least checked that the latter will be available in Aus if needed.
 
I don't own the SFL, but one thing I've found is that edge performance, or rather perceived edge performance, can depend on your eyes' accommodation ability. I have an 8x30 Binuxit porro from the 1950s and although I know its edge performance is, objectively, not great (especially by modern standards), when I look around the field of view, most of it is at least usably sharp. I also notice something similar when using my Swift 766, which has an even wider field of view - although for some reason the sweet spot (or perceived sweet spot) seems larger when observing over shorter distances.

I think my eyes have greater accommodation when viewing without glasses than with. But unfortunately I have some astigmatism in my left eye which makes it difficult to tweak the left barrel to ultimate sharpness. Glasses correct this, but I can't use my old porros with them: they have to be viewed straight to my eyes. If my astigmatism worsens I fear I shall have to sell them on. Which is a shame as I do enjoy using them.
Very well said. I find a very similar experience when comparing different binoculars of varying edge performance. Excluding anything with field flatteners , although not all are created equal, like MHG are not so flat. The amount , where it starts and the specific type of edge deterioration will determine how pleasing or not the image circle will be, imo. If your looking through binoculars where you can actually see a complete soft dicernable ring of blur and mush , then it ruins the sweet spot and the total image, like some cheap awful vintage SWA’s. On the other hand when you have something that the fall off point is barely noticeable, then falls off gradually to the edge , this sometimes can be barely noticeable in the image, unless you’re actually looking for it with peripheral vision. Of course it depends on the specific aberration.

Your Swift Holiday/Panoramic even with its 11° FOV imo has a very good edge because the fall off is very gradual and smooth, of course we still have those panning characteristics when the FOV is so large. Imo I feel the Swift 766 (most of the swift MKII’s are excellent) and the Bushnell Rangmasters are the best of the best in the SWA genre. The FPO and Kowa 10° version is probably the best when it comes to edge correction of the era, but we might say that was the beginning of the ultra wide field wars.

Paul
 
May be of use?

Coincidentally , I'm selling my Conquests because I bought the SFL!

Loved my Conquests, but find the SFLs a tad nicer view (subjective I know!), low light performance can't be split, but the ~150g / 25% lighter was worth it for me and importantly I had the money available for them.
 
From having read almost every post here pertaining to the SFL vs everything else, there certainly seems to be a very strong consensus that if you can’t/don’t want to spend the money for the SF, the SFL is the way to go.

(assuming no other niggles)
 
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I have had all three of your choices and IMO the Zeiss SFL 10x40 is without a doubt the best of the three and that is what I would get, although you might also try the Zeiss SFL 8x40. It will be brighter, have better DOF, have easier eye placement and be more glare resistant than the 10x40 SFL because of the bigger EP and I think it would work better for you in a rain forest.
 
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I have had all three of your choices and IMO the Zeiss SFL 10x40 is without a doubt the best of the three and that is what I would get, although you might also try the Zeiss SFL 8x40. It will be brighter, have better DOF, have easier eye placement and be more glare resistant than the 10x40 SFL because of the bigger EP and I think it would work better for you in a rain forest.
Cheers. I don't actually go birding too often in the rainforest, it was just an example of the Monarch 7 meeting its limitations. You're right, I think 8s are a better idea for low-light birding like that - a second pair of 8s will probably be my next piece of birding gear to save for once I finally pull the trigger on one of these 10x models. For now I'm looking to replace my main pair and in general still want to use 10s. Most of my birding is in fairly open woodlands and around wetlands.
I've basically decided I want the SFLs out of the 3 if money were no object. I just have to decide now if I want them as much as a pair of MHGs and a spare $800AUD. With the latter, I'd be nearly 2/3 of the way to the 8x pair as well.
 
Cheers. I don't actually go birding too often in the rainforest, it was just an example of the Monarch 7 meeting its limitations. You're right, I think 8s are a better idea for low-light birding like that - a second pair of 8s will probably be my next piece of birding gear to save for once I finally pull the trigger on one of these 10x models. For now I'm looking to replace my main pair and in general still want to use 10s. Most of my birding is in fairly open woodlands and around wetlands.
I've basically decided I want the SFLs out of the 3 if money were no object. I just have to decide now if I want them as much as a pair of MHGs and a spare $800AUD. With the latter, I'd be nearly 2/3 of the way to the 8x pair as well.
Spend the money on the main 10x binoculars you use most , and go frugal on the future purchase of the 8x. Just a thought.

Paul
 
Cheers. I don't actually go birding too often in the rainforest, it was just an example of the Monarch 7 meeting its limitations. You're right, I think 8s are a better idea for low-light birding like that - a second pair of 8s will probably be my next piece of birding gear to save for once I finally pull the trigger on one of these 10x models. For now I'm looking to replace my main pair and in general still want to use 10s. Most of my birding is in fairly open woodlands and around wetlands.
I've basically decided I want the SFLs out of the 3 if money were no object. I just have to decide now if I want them as much as a pair of MHGs and a spare $800AUD. With the latter, I'd be nearly 2/3 of the way to the 8x pair as well.
Maybe this pair of new Zeiss SFL 10x40 and a new pair of Zeiss SFL 8x40 on eBay from the same seller and the binoculars are located in Australia will save you some money, and then you can get both the 10x40 SFL and 8x40 SFL. They are new for AU, 2228 (US $1451.76) for the 10x40 and AU 2470 (US $1609.45) so less than AU 4600 (US $3000.00) you have them both.

ZEISS SFL 10x40 Binoculars | eBay
 
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